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6R78 Johnson

earlydawn

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"I am new to this and posted m

"I am new to this and posted my question yesterday but it appeared wrong. My motor has been running fine for months. Last time out it was hard to start and missing a little but cleared as engine warmed up. Lake temp was 42F. Was running fine when it cut off like you turned off the lights and would not show a hint of restarting. Checked for broken wires, didn't see anything. Checked to see if it was getting fuel..wet plugs from trying to restart...ok. Checked to see if firing...no spark. Pulled flywheel and checked wiring..looked ok. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I live a long way from getting service."
 
"If the engine has absolutely

"If the engine has absolutely no spark at all, that usually indicates that the powerpack has failed, in which case, replace it.

However, before doing so, check that the push button kill switch has not shorted out by simply disconnecting one of the kill button wires.

When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
Joe...thanks for your help. I

Joe...thanks for your help. I suspected the power pack but was unsure before replacing parts. Look forward to checking your web. Thanks everyone..great source for help.
 
Joe...Do you have to cut and r

Joe...Do you have to cut and reconnect the wires going to the rubber connection to replace the power pack? This motor has never had a replacement part.
 
"No, never cut the wires.

I


"No, never cut the wires.

If it's necessary to remove any of the pins/sockets from the powerpack connexctors, pull the connector apart so that you can observe where the pins/sockets are located depth wise, then as gently as possible, back the pins/sockets out of the connector so that they can be reinstalled in the new connectors.

From memory, if memory is served properly, there's no need to remove any of those pins/sockets.

Let me know what you find. Should the powerpack NOT be the problem, do not consider it money wasted as it's a very good idea to have a spare pack and the tools to replace it in your onboard toolbox. It can really save your day."
 
Thanks Joe...I agree it's

Thanks Joe...I agree it's not money wasted. After replacing the power pack and checking the kill button if these are not the problem what do I check next?
 
Thanks Joe...will do and let y

Thanks Joe...will do and let you know. Really appreciate your help. Looking forward to asking some questions regarding an 97 OMC 4cyl. Anyway..I will let you know when the power pack gets replaced. Thanks
 
"Joe,
Replaced the power pack


"Joe,
Replaced the power pack and adjusted the carb...engine is running fine again. Another question...is there any way to adjust the timing? At low idle it's running with a little miss like it's out of time. Thanks for your help.
Les"
 
No need to adjust timing unles

No need to adjust timing unless it has been messed with by a backyarder.Look for a lean mixture and try to adjust the carburetor. It may mean that you have to remove the knob to get the required amount of adjustment.Perhaps the ignition and throttle are not synchronized and may need adjustment.
 
"A slight spitting back at a l

"A slight spitting back at a low rpm usually indicates a out of adjustment carburetor.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

When time permits, visit my eBay store (copy/paste) at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
Thanks Joe...haven't been

Thanks Joe...haven't been online for awhile...had modem problems....I adjusted carb as stated and engine runs fine. Had it on the lake Sunday and she runs like a sewing machine again.
 
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