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67 Evinrude 60HP Powerhead Removal

D

daytona_sportfour

Member
"I have checked (and check

"I have checked (and checked, and checked) all the possibilities for poor performance from the "upstream" side of my engine..(Fuel type, fuel mix ratio, tanks (2), Fuel hose, fuel pump, engine hoses, carb, carb adjustments, timing, compression, points, condenser, coil, wires, plugs, sync, leaf valves, gaskets)..

I feel it's time to dig into the "downstream" side (IE: Exaust). I know the original owner of this boat used it on Lake Erie to fish for yellow pike and coho salmon. He did alot of trolling (idleing). I'm wondering if the lower end is just caked with carbon, and not allowing the motor to "breath". Does this sound reasonable?
I have the original service manual, and it has me removing alot of the accessories to the powerhead. Starter, flywheel, carb, intake, etc..
Is all that necessary just to check the exaust ports? I'm not disassembling the powerhead for a rebuild unless I know it needs it. I just want to check the exaust for any restrictions. Must I remove everything by the book? I don't see why the flywheel or intake/carb will be in the way at all. I have an engine hoist, so lifing it off and leaving it hanging is not an issue. Any special alignment procedures for reinstalling it?

On a side note: Do any of you have experience with the so-called "high-performance" (plastic) leaf/reed valves for these engines? I had my leaf-plates out and everything looked spotless. I could barely see very small gaps if I held the plates up to a bright light. The slightest touch and they close completely...

Thanks,
Ray"
 
"Ray,
Yes the exhaust could b

"Ray,
Yes the exhaust could be blocked. I've found this on many of the larger engines that were run at idle for long periods of time.
Just remove the parts need to lift the engine clear of the housing.
You do not need to remove anything other than the parts that would hold the engine to the housing.
Fuel line,wires,throttle linkage ECT is all that needs to be taken loose.

It's been together a long time so take care in removing the bolts holding the engine on that they do not break. This would be a lot of work to repair if any of these bolts should break."
 
"Ray: I havent read your other

"Ray: I havent read your other posts and
You dont mention anything about RPM's in this post--
do you know if the motor is reving at or near the stated amount--
if it is, then chances are that there is nothing wrong that a teardown will fix-"
 
"Thanks Charli and Tom....
C

"Thanks Charli and Tom....
Charli- I thought that was the case- but I guess the book assumes you are going to tear the whole thing down.. not just have a look-see at the exaust.

Tom- I don't have a tachometer for a 2-stroke. But I know what they sound like when they're wound-out... This one never even gets close to full revs. If I had to guess, I'd say it doesn't hit 3000. The manual says it's supposed to hit max HP at 4500. Full revs 4000-5000.
It also takes forever to gain any speed. Holeshot is non existant.
I'm hoping I find something... because if I don't I'm looking at a total rebuild. Maybe not because it "needs it" I'm just tired of screwin with the thing.

Ray"
 
"Ray,
Found your post on Carl

"Ray,
Found your post on Carl's post. You should have quit when you found that bad gasket. This will cause a bad air leak at the intake. I wish I had known about this I could have saved you some work. Anyway check that the base plate and intake are flat. There is some reason the gasket was eaten away like that. Sorry I didn't catch the gasket but I tend to believe it when people say they checked everything else.
Hope it runs lke a rocket."
 
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