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65 HP Model

Is it deep in the channel buried from sight? It's possible that someone before me screwed up these carbs and left them out. I really appreciate your thoughts.
 
I'm talking about the other hole in the picture right behind that ugly gas line clamp let's go home.
 
Is it important to remove that main jet? It's clean and a wire goes thru no problem.
Does it have anything to do with the carbs flooding? I did notice that with to choke closed the flooding increased significantly.
Thanks again racerone
 
Sorry, that "let's go home" was my wife talking in the background. I don't like to text and drive, so I dictate and drive. The main jet may be stuck in and without the correct screwdriver, it could be stuck in there forever. It's hard to do a careful cleaning to the correct orifice size without it's removal. No, it shouldn't cause the float bowl to overflow, but it certainly will mess up your motor if it isn't properly cleaned to the exact size.
 
I was wondering about the "let's go home". Good you don't text and drive but probably shouldn't dictate and drive either. My daughter insists on calling on her hands free phone while driving. I hang up on her. LOL

That said is there any way that gas coming out of the carbs when extended cranking is normal? These are side draft carbs, I think, so gravity won't draw any excess fuel into the cylinders. If it was just one of the carbs I would suspect needle valve, but all 3.

I really do appreciate your thoughts. Bob
 
One last attempt to help.----Your choke flappers are working very well.-----You have to trouble shoot why it won't start up after 2 seconds of cranking !!-----That motor when new started instantly so to speak !!----Blunt statement here.-----" It is not uncommon for a novice to jump all over the carburetors when they are in fact NOT the problem"
 
racerone said:
One last attempt to help.----Your choke flappers are working very well.-----You have to trouble shoot why it won't start up after 2 seconds of cranking !!-----That motor when new started instantly so to speak !!----Blunt statement here.-----" It is not uncommon for a novice to jump all over the carburetors when they are in fact NOT the problem"
Click to expand...

I think you may/probably be right. I'm going to go back to square one. Thanks again for your help.
 
To build on what Racer is saying, we may not have any carb problems here. Anyone can flood out a carb....even when it is perfect. With choking and engine vacuum pulling up fuel, it should fire. If there is no spark, or weak spark, timing off, etc....the average operator will flood gas out the carbs. Have we established good spark....7/16 " crackle, "lightning like" blue/white spark?
 
Back to basics - Compression 120-120-110, should be OK. Checked plug gap, way big, set to 30 per manual. Spark plug tester shows spark on all 3 but not sure at the moment about weak or not but screw driver in plug wire and blue spark jumped 1/4" to block. I'll recheck the stator and timer base resistance and DVA, again, this PM or tomorrow. Not sure how to test timing. Timing is suspicious since it back fires and smokes. You guys are great helping me out like this. Thanks. Bob
 
Right, Racer. Can you see this key from the top, so no need to remove flywheel if it's okay? Note: 1/4" spark is insufficient. Rig yourself up a simple spark tester. I can show you what I have here.....now don't get jealous. IMG_20200413_123938033_compress69.jpg
And besides there is a patent pending on this one.
I had to mark on it because I found it in the kindling pile once.
 
you say " back fires", on one thread recently on one of the two forums i fallow, the poster said back firing, turned out to be plug wires on wrong plugs and i think it was a 3 cylinder motor, double check for us, may be nothing, back to basics
 
You can not tell if key is sheared by just LOOKING at the key.------Use timing pointer or remove flywheel.----You can not use a timing light to check for a sheared key either.
 
I'm so happy and SOOO embarrassed. I pulled the fly wheel when I first started on this and the key was OK. It is now sheared. I suspect I didn't tighten the nut tight enough. Replaced the key and now the starter is to weak to crank. I probably damaged the starter trying to crank it. Removed 1 spark plug and it cranks but not with all 3. Starter gear engages, jams and won't retract. Is a rebuild worth a try or should I look for a replacement. I'm betting it with start if I can get it to crank.

Many thanks again. If nothing else this is keeping me busy during the lock down. Keep safe. Bob
 
Good. Torque with torque wrench your neighbor probably has one if you don't. Rebuilt starters are a "crapshoot". I always take them apart, add synthetic lube as needed, inspect and reassemble, before I install on an outboard or any vehicle. Good job, Bob and 'ol Racer.....thanks.
 
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racerone said:
Only use a factory replacement key.----Make sure tapers are matched.----Assemble with tapers clean and dry !
Click to expand...

Eureka!!! Was just about to pull the starter off but gave it one more try and it fired off. Idle way high so shut it down. Now it starts almost instantly ever time. I need to manually push on the throttle to get it to idle down but that's just minor adjustments. Idles nicely and revs up great. Seems to be running really well.

One little thing: Not sure if it's stuck in gear but the prop is spinning even when idling slow in what should be neutral. It was late so I didn't have time to look further. I'll work on it tomorrow.

Thanks again to all. Almost there. Bob
 
With the control in nuetral the prop will spin and make it appear that it is in gear.-----Has to to with the way the BEARINGS are arranged in the gearcase !----Use a stick to check and test that.----Should be easy to stop the prop.
 
Definitely in gear, tried to stop the prop but no way. Throttle forward engine revs nicely, throttle to reverse engine revs but the prop does not change direction.

Starter gear jams in flywheel. Appears the starter gear is in pretty bad shape. Put a thin shim (washer) behind one of the starter mount bolts. Moved the starter a tiny bit away from the flywheel and now works perfectly.

Went out to play with it, turned the key to start and nothing. No solenoid click, nothing. I had taken the control box apart yesterday to fiddle with the cable so assumed I mucked something up in there. Wasted 2 hours and could find nothing obvious. The switch terminal B-S for start tested bad. Early on I tested all the key switch stuff and all OK. Plus it worked until today. Grabbed a push button momentary switch from my junk drawer and wired it between the battery cable at the solenoid to the small solenoid activation terminal so I could start the engine. Started right up, ran good. Shut it down and came back a bit later and without thinking just turned the key to start and it took right off. I didn't fix anything it just started working.

By the time we are done we will have 1000 hours, and a couple hundred bucks invested, and have a perfectly good $300 outboard. Thanks again for the help. Bob
 
The good, the bad and thee ugly!
The good: she now runs greats, starts easy, idles, revs everything.
The bad: she is in forward gear and stuck. Checked book and wiring diagram. Blue wire and green wire from the control box (shift switch) into the wiring harness. Found the 2 wires on the starter side of the motor, pretty obvious they were all by their lonesome. Tested as per the book and the switch in the control box is OK. That's the bad part. I guess that means the 2 solenoids or the trans itself are the problem. and they requires getting into the lower end. Won't hurt to learn about that and put in a new impeller while I have it apart. Really didn't want to.
The ugly: I guess that's me.

One last little thing. Every OB I've ever seem had a piss tube out the side so you knew the impeller was pumping. This one doesn't or I can't find it. Thoughts?
 
OK! I'm really happy now. Should have checked the lower unit as one of the very first things but I didn't. Removed the vend plug and it had milky brown goop on it that probably indicates water in the oil. Removed bottom plug and nothing. Dry as a bone. I'm a bit concerned. Filled the unit with mix of diesel and Marvel Mystery Oil and left over night. In the AM kicked it over a couple times, didn't start it, and drained the unit. Refilled and cranked her up. Runs like new and shifts fine. I'll monitor it to make sure.

Just a couple minor things left, I hope.
1. Piss tube. Does it have one? Can't find it.
2. Has overheat horn in control box but can't find the sensor. Book shows yellow wire from horn to sensor.
3. Choke solenoid activates but doesn't work the choke butterflys. Think the spring that attaches the solenoid is stretched out.
4. Last real worry is the transom mounting bolts are rusted in and were cut off to get the motor off the boat. The long transom hinge bolt is also rusted in place. I've managed to free it up enough to work but very, very hard to move.

The interior of the 16' Bayliner I got with this motor is gutted and I'd like to get started on that but I don't have a title to the boat and I don't want to put a bunch of effort into it until this COOVID BS is over and I can get to the Florida DMV and get a title. Not sure if they are even open now for non-essential business. If nothing else I can pick up a half decent boat with no motor, trailer or title for peanuts.

Thanks again. Bob
 
Have to ask.----The 72 model year used 2 brackets bolted to the transom.-------The motor then slides down into those brackets.----Two horizontal bolts on the brackets then hold the motor down in those brackets.------Pictures of the set up that you have ?----No pisser on those motors as back then people did not NEED them.-----I see a lot of ruined / overheated motors today with pissers.-----They are no substitute for knowing how to maintain / operate a fine outboard motor.----The overheat sensor would be found near the top of the cylinder head.
 
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Thanks racerone. OK no pisser. I guess the overheat horn in the controller is the thing. Found the overheat sensor, exposed the spade connector, turned key on and grounded the sensor wire. Horn tried to blow but very puny. Not surprised since the horn in the controller is rusted badly and I am surprised it did anything. I'll replace the horn before I ever put this in the water. Probably wire a nice loud external horn.

Here's a couple pics of the mount. Doesn't seem to be what you describe. Very possible there are missing pieces. The long hinge? bolt is rusty and stuck. I removed the grease fittings and been squiring PB Blaster in the holes. Got it to loosen enough to move the bracket but not remove the bolt. You can see the 2 cut off mounting bolts. They are frozen in. I've tried everything I can think of. Perhaps heating the bolts REALLY hot with acetylene torch. All I have is a propane torch. If I could get the hinge bolt out I could remove the bracket and take it to a machine shop and have the mounting bolts drilled out. Pretty sure I would mess things up badly if I tried.

Trying here to load a video. The pics and video said they loaded.

OK! So back on the 10th of this month I could post pics but now I can't. It says it is loading them, the video took awhile but they don't show up.
 
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I can not see your motor !----All I can tell you is how it should be.----The bolts that go through the transom hold the brackets on.----The motor itself is not held on to the boat with any bolts that go through the transom.------But on 50 year old motor with possibly 6 or more owners there are some creative things done .
 
racerone said:
I can not see your motor !----All I can tell you is how it should be.----The bolts that go through the transom hold the brackets on.----The motor itself is not held on to the boat with any bolts that go through the transom.------But on 50 year old motor with possibly 6 or more owners there are some creative things done .
Click to expand...

And I'll probably end doing more creative things before this is over. Any idea why I can't upload pics?
 
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