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61 40hp Evinrude Throttle and Carb

T

Tett

New member
I got a 40hp evinrude, 35525, that's been giving me trouble for years. I completely overhauled this outboard and somehow got it running years ago with someone else's tuning help; but it won't stay running and I'm not that experienced at tuning. I can get it generally started and going sometimes, but whenever I do get it to idle where I can smoothly throw it into gear, it bogs down and dies. I took the time to completely clean the carb and fuel pump, with seals and new float, and overhauled the magneto plate; with proper point gaping. I would love to know more experienced ideas on what could cause such problem, unless I already addressed it with overhauling the fuel pump, mag, and carb.

Another minor general help question would be that the low speed idle needle valve requires two packing washer, pictures will be added. I know they come in either cork or fiber. I got new ones that came in fiber, and when I tighten down the locking nut snuggly I would expect it to tighten up on the needle to help it stay put and to seal from air getting sucked in, but the needle still spins freely leaving the packing indented; should I get cork or should I dress the packing washer with something like 2 stroke oil? Maybe the vacuum leak around the needle is causing my bogging problem when going in gear.
 
Add packing as needed to keep it from spinning.-----I do not believe enough air can leak there to cause running issues.----Make sure throttle plate does not open too early.-----Points can be set using a meter and the timing marks on the flywheel and magneto plate.-----I do not believe there can be a vacuum leak to cause issues at the low speed needle.
 
racerone said:
Points can be set using a meter and the timing marks on the flywheel and magneto plate.
Click to expand...
That's what interests me, as I'm unsure if that would be possible, unless I am mistaken, with this outboard. I manually adjusted the points with gauges and synchronized the magneto timing as the book stated; with the magneto cam mark, and there are no marks on the flywheel that I am aware of.

I agree there probably isn't much air leakage around the needle to worry about, but I think the packing is too hard to be squished tight into the chamfers of the locking nut and needle bushing to keep the needle from spinning. I would hate to have to order all new ones in cork.
 
Well----There are timing marks !-----Many videos on u-tube for you to study.----Started using a meter and timing marks on these motors back in 1968.-----Factory parts never fail to hold these needles tight.
 
fdrgator said:
There are supposed to be two packings plus two plastic washers in there. And of course the threaded sleeve. Is everything in there?
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Yeah, I have both fiber packing washers, plastic washers, and the threaded bushing. I dunked the fiber washers into the mixed gas to soak up some oil and become more pliable when the gas dries out. Doing that and tightening it a smidge more than normal seemed to have allowed it to do its job finally. I did include photos of everything when I first posted, but it seems they didn't want to upload.
Since the needle packing is working now all of a sudden, I've moved on to other little issues, like the wrong size of filter bowl gaskets, and tuning the throttle control rod.
 
racerone said:
Add packing as needed to keep it from spinning.-----I do not believe enough air can leak there to cause running issues.----Make sure throttle plate does not open too early.-----Points can be set using a meter and the timing marks on the flywheel and magneto plate.-----I do not believe there can be a vacuum leak to cause issues at the low speed needle.
Click to expand...
You solved my problem, thank you.
 
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