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60ESL71C Gear case refurb

A

abcjoyride

Contributing Member
Hi,
Taking apart the gear case to replace seals and fix broken wire on solenoid and was wondering....what cleans the case really well and the parts? Also is there a forum on here already that talks about what to look for when inspecting the gears etc for damage etc.
Thanks
 
Many of us in the trade use "Mineral Spirits" to clean any and all engine parts when disassembling. Grease, dirt, whatever, flows away from the parts when brushed on. Also Mineral Spirits drys quite quickly, especially when exposed to pressurized air.

Damaged parts should be easily noticed..... breakage, bad scoring, that sort of thing. If in doubt, post a picture of the questionable part for us to see.
 
Right. Case all apart. Cleaned up. Rev gear has some wear on the blocks that the clutch dog hits. The clutch dog has wear on one side only. (rev).\\\\\Otherwise all cogs and teeth are mint. The thrust bush has some damage in that the flat side has what looks like corrosive break away. Unfortunately i cant get the photos on here. Tried but it wont let me upload them.:mad: Will these things affect operation or need replacement?

Also got a gasket with water pump kit.\\\ Manual does not show but these kits come with gasket. On removing water pump, gasket is between pump housing and metal plate\\\ Outboard guys are telling me that it goes between gear case and metal plate?\\\\\ Which is correct\\\\\ My manual dont show it.
Thanks
 
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Those "blocks" on the gear and shifter dog are called "lobes". A slight bit of wear there most likely won't bother anything as being forced to jump out of and back into gear is normally a high rpm problem.

NOTE: The shifter dog is not reversible! DO NOT attempt that!

Your photos are probably too large. Downsize the pixel width to about 1000. The pixel height should downsize accordingly/equally as you do so.

The gasket question.... The original impeller housing was all aluminum and no gasket was needed. The new type is a plastic housing with a stainless steel cup insert.

Where that gasket goes should be easy to determine by the design of it.... if the inner cut is the exact cut-away appearance of the bottom of the impeller housing, then obviously it would go between the impeller housing and the plate... HOWEVER... there is usually a fancy "O" Ring that seals the impeller housing to the plate.

If the surface of that gasket IS NOT the exact cutout as the impeller housing, then obviously the impeller would tear the hell out of it... that gasket would go under the plate.
 
Thanks Joe.
Gasket is the same as as the housing\\\\ Can i still use johnson sealing compound stuff on the gasket?\\\ Also is it a good idea to use the same johnson sealing compound between plate and the case?
I will have a go at making pics smaller too.
 
john phone 2 342.jpgjohn phone 2 341.jpgjohn phone 2 314.jpgIt worked Joe. Here are pics.
 
The lobes on the shifter dog are worn pretty bad, and I assume the reverse gear lobes look the same? If so, how that is going to work out in reverse is a toss up. Reverse rpm is usually very low and reverse gear may not give you a problem... BUT... as I say, that's a toss up!.

Since you're experienced in dismantling the unit, if it were me, I'd use them on a trial basis as they will be expensive parts... IF... you can find them. Usually it's cheaper just to pick up another old unit for parts.

The thrust bushing/washer picture.... If that's the one that goes in the back of the propeller, use it. If it's some other kind of thrust washer, describe exactly what it is as I really can't place it.
 
I thought you may say that. The rev gear aint to bad in comparison. I will put back together and see. Having got into this, its as racerone has described it before. Elegantly simple. Especially with manual and a bit of advice from you guys! That thrust washer is from prop. I will use as is.
Thanks again.
 
So..putting it back together its all going well until the drive shaft bearing housing. 1 bolt wouldn't tighten. Threads on bolt okay. Inner of case stripped! :mad: This means a new thread. Cant get bearing housing off with pulling apart gear case. Can i tap through for new thread without having to pull apart?
 
Remove that bearing & seal housing, then stuff a bunch of rags around so that metal filings cannot gain access to the inner gear-case, then install a proper size heli-coil so that you can install the correct bolt.
 
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joereeves said:
Remove that bearing & seal housing, then stuff a bunch of rags around so that metal filings cannot gain access to the inner gear-case, then install a proper size heli-coil so that you can install the correct bolt.[/QUOTE

It was the bolt that came out of it. I kept them all together and bagged with the part. Very strange. That bolt had slightly fatter threads almost imperceptably fatter.
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Got the housing out. A bit apprehensive of tapping. Never done it...then again never pulled apart or reassembled gear case either. The bore of hole is virtually smooth. Bolt seems fine but now slips in and out. Whats next size to tap? Its clear i cant use same bolt and just re tap. The head of the bolt is 7/16.
 
Removing that bearing & seal housing.... a large screwdriver on each side, lifting back and forth is usually the method used to lift it out.

The threads on that bolt.... I'm wondering if that hole already had a heli coil installed and it came out with the bolt. Examine the bolt closely to see if it is actually the same identical bolt as the other three (markings on head etc) or a different bolt all-together.

The proper method is to install a Heli-Coil to accept the original size bolt. If that job isn't your cup of tea so to speak, have a machine shop do it. It isn't a major operation... we do it almost on a daily basis.
 
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joereeves said:
Removing that bearing & seal housing.... a large screwdriver on each side, lifting back and forth is usually the method used to lift it out.

The threads on that bolt.... I'm wondering if that hole already had a heli coil installed and it came out with the bolt. Examine the bolt closely to see if it is actually the same identical bolt as the other three (markings on head etc) or a different bolt all-together.

The proper method is to install a Heli-Coil to accept the original size bolt. If that job isn't your cup of tea so to speak, have a machine shop do it. It isn't a major operation... we do it almost on a daily basis.
Click to expand...


Sweet as. Think ill go to the shop. Thanks
 
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