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6.0L engine issue

Tomnrenee

New member
Still having issue with my 2006 6.0L crusader. I finally got it hooked up to a computer via DIACOM marine software. First issue is DTC 2428 exhaust temp high. Looked in book couldn't find that code?? Second thing I notice monitoring engine parameters is a line that says MIL Driver. Before starting engine line reads MIL Driver OK after start up MIL Driver open load any ideas? After about 10 minutes of idling engine RPM drops and engine stalls. Any help is appreciated. I am thinking EMC?
 
I'd suspect you looked in the wrong book for the 2428 DTC...first thing to check for that DTC is the cooling system per the factory literature...personally, I would clear it and see if it recurs with a cold start...if it does, it is likely to be a wiring issue.

As far as the MIL Driver - you may want to try RINDA's support line. If forced to guess, I'd say a "MIL Driver open load" means the ECU can't detect a connection to the bulb (of the MIL)...could be a bad bulb or a bad connection...
 
I'd suspect you looked in the wrong book for the 2428 DTC...first thing to check for that DTC is the cooling system per the factory literature...personally, I would clear it and see if it recurs with a cold start...if it does, it is likely to be a wiring issue.

As far as the MIL Driver - you may want to try RINDA's support line. If forced to guess, I'd say a "MIL Driver open load" means the ECU can't detect a connection to the bulb (of the MIL)...could be a bad bulb or a bad connection...

Thanks for the reply. I didn't find that code in Crusader manuel but I did trouble shoot via exhaust temp sensor. I checked the temp of exhaust manifolds they were in specs. It lead me to ECM replacement.The code popped 20 times according to the DIACOM.

I emailed Rinda and they said MIL driver is the lamp which I don't have. I have a buzzer which appears to be working but hasn't indicated anything is wrong. OPEN LOAD according to Rinda is open circuit, again leading me to ECM malfunction because I don't have a lamp. It only shows OPEN LOAD when I start the engine but shows OK when I turn on key engine off.
 
The ECU is fine regarding the MIL Driver; if you don't have the lamp, the OPEN LOAD is expected.

If the temperature of the manifold, in the region of the switch, "matches" - that infers the switch is ok and the cooling water if flowing...I'd check the wiring between the switch and the ECU. Yes, the 2428 code is set by a switch (closes {to ground} when hot), not a sensor...
 
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The ECU is fine regarding the MIL Driver; if you don't have the lamp, the OPEN LOAD is expected.

If the temperature of the manifold, in the region of the switch, "matches" - that infers the switch is ok and the cooling water if flowing...I'd check the wiring between the switch and the ECU. Yes, the 2428 code is set by a switch (closes {to ground} when hot), not a sensor...

The over arching issue is the engine will not reach full RPM. After about 10-15 min of idealing on hose will start to back fire and quit. After it cools off it starts right back up. The engine temp is in spec as is the exhaust temp. I am leaning towards the ECM because I changed the crank and cam sensor with no change; engine still will not reach full RPM.

When it first started it would reach full RPM then all of a sudden drop. Indicating to me that it's getting worst. The RPM reduction mode isn't engaged either. I had a mobile mechanic come by and tell me the only thing that is stopping it from not reach full RPM is crank, cam or ECM.

Thanks for your input.
 
Your mobile mechanic failed to let you know that insufficient fuel will inhibit WOT too...and I don't think the ECU monitors fuel pressure (yet). If you have twins, you can swap ECU's ... ECU's don't fail too often unless abused...
 
Your mobile mechanic failed to let you know that insufficient fuel will inhibit WOT too...and I don't think the ECU monitors fuel pressure (yet). If you have twins, you can swap ECU's ... ECU's don't fail too often unless abused...

Yeah I know but what I didn't post was I went through the fuel system first. New high pressure and low pressure pumps. Anti siphon valves, blow out fuel lines, injectors pulled cleaned and tested. So I called mechanic to hook up to computer. He didn't have the cable for it so he couldn't hook into it. Did not charge me but told me that it isn't mechanical sounded like sensor crank or cam. Oh yeah I also did a compression test, ok. I also found installer of engine routed a hot water return line on top of computer. Computer was so hot I couldn't touch it less then a second. When it started it was intermittent now it's not getting progressively worse. I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace computer looks like I am going to. Not sure how much heat these ECM can handle?
 
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