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57L wAlpha drive only getting 3300 rpm WOT

eskew

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"I have read a few similar typ

"I have read a few similar type posts in this discussion board, but want to see if anyone has anymore insight. Here is my specific info:

I bought a 1999 Chaparral Sunesta 252LE this spring from a guy who had gotten it after Hurricane Katrina from a marina and replaced the engine. The boat was never sunk, but had taken on some water (you can see the water-line back in the engine compartment). The factory engine was frozen up, so he replaced with a "ready-to-run" engine from a marine engine outfitting company specializing in re-powering boats. It is supposedly the same engine (year, size, HP, etc.) as the original one. The hours on the motor were supposedly right at 200 hours.

I got the boat from him because he bought multiple boats from the Katrina auction and only had time to really focus on one. So I bought this one. It needed some wiring replaced to the dash (which I did) and trim system replaced (which I did). The original factory aluminum prop was very dinged up, so I replaced with a SS prop of the same size & pitch (19 pitch).

Took it to the lake and it started up easily. Idled a little rough, so I adjusted the electric choke (as per the manual) and check the timing, which was incorrect. It has Thunderbolt IV ignition, so I applied the jumper wire (as per the manual) and adjusted the advance to 10 (as per the manual). At this point, the boat started easily, idled smooth as glass and ran great...up to 3300 RPM's. It accelerates great (will yank a skier up NO problem) but as you get to 3300 RPM when you give it more gas, it starts to run less smoothly and does NOT go up in RPM above the 3300 mark. This is about 28 MPH. When you back off the throttle a touch until it is where 3300 RPM's ought to be, then it smooths out and will run all day there with NO problem!

I have checked the tach with a digital technician tach and verified that the dashboard tach IS accurate. According to manufacturer info, this boat should have WOT of 4600-4800 RPM with this prop.

My first reaction was that it was a fuel delivery problem. So I replaced the low-pressure fuel pump. The fuel line from the pump to the 2-bbl carb that had been installed was NOT a factory fuel line...looked more like some kind of hydraulic hose from the ends. So I replaced that with new 3/8" fuel line. 3/8" fuel lines from gas tank to gas/water separator filter and then from filter to fuel pump looked fine. NO CHANGE IN RPM's.

So then I checked spark plug wires, & the wire from the ignition coil to the distributer. They looked a questionable, so I replaced them. NO CHANGE IN RPM's.

Could the jets in the carb be the problem? Since it runs SO well all the way up to 3300 RPM's, I just keep thinking it is NOT the carb. Am I wrong? Should I rebuild the carb?

Is the 3/8" fuel line right for a 5.7L?

The previous owner TOLD me a little bit of conflicting info about the replacement motor. there is NO serial number tag on the block. It is gone. He said it was 260HP (the same HP as the original)j but he said it was a 5.0L motor. Since it has a 2-bbl carb, I think it would only be a 220HP motor if it were a 5.0L. But the model number on the carb is for a 5.7L (according to Mercruiser info.) According to Chaparral, the boat was originally shipped with a 5.7L 260HP motor. Looking at the paint on the motor, it does NOT look like the carb was changed (paint is unbroken and unchipped anywhere around the screws and base). Maybe he just was mistaken about 5.0L vs 5.7L. But if not and he did just put the carb from a 5.7L onto a 5.0L motor, would that cause this problem?

I also do NOT know the gear ratio in the Alpha drive. How can I find out what it is? Same thing, if it was a 260HP motor and now is a 220HP motor with a specific gear ratio, then maybe the 19-pitch prop needs to be more like a 17-pitch to get the WOT that it should.

What do you think?"
 
"2 inches of pitch will not ma

"2 inches of pitch will not make up that big rpm. difference. make sure your timing is advancing, and then go to the carb."
 
"It could very well be a jetti

"It could very well be a jetting problem. That 2-bbl mercarb is used on a lot of different engines and the jet sizes vary. Sounds like you're not sure what you have so you may have to do some trial and error.

WRT the prop, SS is stiffer and will cause some drop in RPMs... maybe a few hundred, surely not 1000 for the same size and pitch.

Some good gouge: <center><table border=1><tr><td>http://www.marineengine.com/discus/icons/mime_pdf.gif""" align=left alt=""application/pdf"">
[url=""][b]97_08.pdf[/b][/url] (50.4 k)</td></tr></table></center>"
 
"I have checked the timing and

"I have checked the timing and it does seem to be advancing correctly.

By the way, I mis-typed. It is Thunderbolt V ignition, not IV. And I did follow the instructions with the jumper wire required on V when I set the timing.

As far as the carb goes, should I try to adjust the current carb or will it require a rebuild kit? The current carb is a Merc 3310-861245A1. With this carb, will it matter if is actually a 5.0L or 5.7L?"
 
"Yes it does matter and rebuil

"Yes it does matter and rebuild kits don't typically come with different jets. Rebuilding the same carb, that likely has nothing wrong with it other than it's on the wrong engine, won't get you very far.
Your number indicates it's a carb for a 5.7L, but if it's on a 5.0L that could be the whole problem.
Is there no serial number stamped on the engine block that could be used to determine the engine size?
You could tear the carb down and measure the float level and drop, and the jets sizes.
Changing one thing at a time, maybe try a different float level (probably higher), and try a different power jet size (probably larger) for starters.
If that doesn't get it, you may have buy a whole new carb."
 
"I have been unable to find a

"I have been unable to find a serial number on the engine. The location the manual says it should have a tag (port side down near bottom of block), has the place for a tag, but it has been removed. Any other place it might be actually on the engine?

Or any other way to visually tell if it is a 5.0 or 5.7?"
 
"Any paperwork come with it WR

"Any paperwork come with it WRT to new engine?
Any way to contact the "marine engine outfitting company"? I would think they would have some records showing a serial number.
A bill of sale? anything?

Other than pulling a cylinder head and measuring the bore, I don't know if there is a way to tell without a serial number... there's got to be a number stamped on the thing somewhere. It may not be the Mercruiser serial number (like on the missing tag), perhaps a GM number that can be cross referenced."
 
Thanks for you help!

I have


Thanks for you help!

I have not found any number anywhere on the block (that I have been able to get to anyway!)

I am trying to get hold of the previous owner and get what info he has on the motor...will let you know what as soon as I get anything.
 
"Have gotten in touch with the

"Have gotten in touch with the guy who bought the replacement motor. It WAS actually a 5.7L as I had suspected not a 5.0L like he thought (not that that is an all bad thing by any means!) They also said it was definitely a 1999.

The carb is the one that came on it (and was the original factory carb). So there should not a problem with it being the WRONG carb.

He still couldn't find the serial number on any paperwork. The company he bought it from said they had removed the Mercruiser tag because when they repainted the engine, it ruined the tag. They also told him that it was stamped in to the block somewhere, but I have been unable to locate that.

So that being said, is it worth my while to rebuild the carb? What are the chances that that might solve my problem?

If not, any other suggestions for me to look at?

Thanks for all the help so far!"
 
"Michael:

Since you have ju


"Michael:

Since you have just about covered all your bases, rebuilding the carb can't hurt anything. Make sure you use the specs. from the manual and use a Merc. carb. kit. I know the other aftermarket kits will work. But you can't afford any more gremlins that could come from an aftermarket kit. Take your time and good luck."
 
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