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'57 Big Twin - - NEED HELP

K

Krieger

New member
I hope this issue hasn't already been covered, i couldn't find any relevant info when i searched through posts and archives (been searching on and off for a few months before becoming a member)

A little background:
My dad gave me his old boat and motor, saying if i could fix it, i could have it. The boat is a pre-1960 14' Wizard fiberglass, and it's got a 1957 Evinrude 35hp Big Twin (model # 25028) with the original Cruise-a-Day 6 gallon pressure tank on it. I've rebuilt the transom of the boat and am working on the motor, and have run into some issues.

I have replaced (with NEW parts):
-Coils
-Points
-Spark Plugs
-Condensors

I've set the timing with a jig and voltmeter, then double (or quadruple, i don't know at this point) checked with feeler gauges, and I've gotten it to fire up once or twice, but it stalled out. Now when i go to pull the rope, the throttle snaps closed, regardless of where it was set or if someone is physically holding the throttle gears. The motor doesn't have a stop button or killswitch anywhere that I've seen, so I'm assuming you're supposed to close the throttle to kill the motor, leading me to believe that the throttle isn't supposed to snap shut, and it doing so is preventing the motor from starting.

Can anyone tell me if my thought process is logical/correct? And if it is, what is causing the throttle to close and/or how do i fix it?
 
Thats a old jewel but can be a pain if your new. Can you wiggle up and down on the points plate? Your gonna need to pull the flywheel sounds like the coils are not set correctly they are rubbing on the flywheel. If you did not pull the points plate to change the coils that will have to happen also.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Thats a old jewel but can be a pain if your new. Can you wiggle up and down on the points plate? Your gonna need to pull the flywheel sounds like the coils are not set correctly they are rubbing on the flywheel. If you did not pull the points plate to change the coils that will have to happen also.
Click to expand...

By "points plate" are you referring to the armature plate that all the ignition parts are attached to? If so, I did not pull that plate when i replaced those piecesparts, didn't know it was necessary. I also don't know if that will wiggle up/down, I'll check next time i work on it and get back to you on that.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
BTW we can wire in a kill switch and make it a 1/2 pull start motor when warm.
Click to expand...

Ha, that'd be great! But I'd like to just get the darn thing running first.

Also, i need to know what you're referring to when you say "points plate". I want to be sure of what I'm looking at/for when i work on the motor again so i can accurately report back to you guys.
 
You need to push the wires fully into the coils and then slide the boots up tight then install the coils. Take some pics of the armature plate top and bottom so you know how it goes back together. You can always get a new mount bracket and ring while its apart you can tighten the plate up? If the coils were cracked i can almost guarantee the ring is original over 60 yrs old.
 
Will check into all that. However, i currently have spark. The problem I'm having is the throttle snapping shut when the rope is pulled. Is that normal? If not, how would the coil placment affect the throttle when i seem to have good spark on both cylinders?
 
You need to adjust the coils !----If coils drag on the flywheel the magneto plate rotates and throttle closes.
 
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Armature plate, points plate, magneto plate are the same animal. Once you get it running properly the way to kill it is with the choke. That makes restarting a little more difficult
 
If the armature plate has any wobble up and down it will run like ass timing is on point gap the plate must be solid and have a nice smooth motion.
 
Search ebay for 33hp-40hp armature plate assy you will see the two wires for the kill switch. Just drill two holes in the plate and add two grommets then run a wire from each set of points to a kill switch.
 
Just to add a small hint here. If you put Sierra after market coils in the motor they are having quality issues at the moment with the mounting holes? Do you have the alignment ring to help you locate the coils on the mag plate? You can go on the AOMCI site ("Ask a Member" Richard White) he makes the rings for this. Tell him Dan in TN sent you. It is unfortunate that this is happening, but many of our members are fighting this issue at this time.

 
t2stroke said:
Just to add a small hint here. If you put Sierra after market coils in the motor they are having quality issues at the moment with the mounting holes? Do you have the alignment ring to help you locate the coils on the mag plate? You can go on the AOMCI site ("Ask a Member" Richard White) he makes the rings for this. Tell him Dan in TN sent you. It is unfortunate that this is happening, but many of our members are fighting this issue at this time.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip on the coils. Dunno what brand they are, but I'll check when i tear into it.

I do not have the alignment ring, but I'll get one if i need to. Gotta see if the plate moves. Would that be the same Richard White that runs classicomctools.com? Just curious cause that's where i was able to get the timing jig for the motor.
 
Once you have the coils set and points gap adjusted it is easier to adjust the sync and link with the flywheel off. There is a mark on the throttle cam and a pointer just to the left of the follower roller. Put the gearbox in forward hear you may need to spin the prop to line the clutch up. Then slowly advance the throttle and watch the line on the cam. The throttle butterfly should just begin to open as the line passes the pointer. Once you get that set properly there is a brass collar on the linkage with a set screw loosen the screw ant take it WOT. With one fonger hold the carb butterfly fully open then push the collar up tight to the pivot pin and tighten the screw. That will hold the butterfly fully open. Then install the flywheel and be sure and tighten the nut to 105ft lbs before you try to start it very important.
 
Yes that is the same Richard you got the pointer from. That second flywheel nut torque sounds much better. That 105 number was for the big crank after 1962.

 
Thank you all for your tips and advice! I finally got the time to work on the old girl, and I got to hear it run! Didn't have wiggle in the armature plate, i adjusted the coils and checked everything over for the umpteenth time, then put it all back together. 3 pulls and it fired up!

It's been raining a lot here so i can't take her to the lake today, but I'm going to as soon as i can to finish adjusting the carb and see how she runs.
 
I've got another question about that motor. I was gonna change the lower end oil before putting it in the water, but i can't find the drain plug! According to the reading I've done, the small Phillips head down low is a pivot pin for the gearshift, while the big flathead up top is the vent. According to the book Cheap Outboards by Max Wawrzyniak III, there should be a second big flathead screw lower on the skeg, kinda in line with that small Phillips screw, but I'm not seeing it! And there's nothing on the other side.

Am i missing something? Do these early Big Twins have a different setup?

PS-I was going to attach a pic to show what I'm looking at, but can't figure out how to attach a pic to a post from my phone.
 
The drain is on the front under the bullet of the skeg. Underneath. Lift the engine up so you can look under the nose of the gearcase. Same flat head screw as vent screw above. DO NOT TAKE OUT PHILLIPS! That is the shift cradle pivot screw. Can be hard to,line back up.
 
Thank you both! I wasn't sure about those bottom screws (thought they all may have been holding the lower unit on), and i knew not to pull the Phillips even though my dad swears that's how he always changed the oil. Appreciate the pointers and the diagram.

Maybe I'll be able to get it on the water at some point today yet.
 
You have to get on your hands and knees to find the drain / fill screw on those.----Remember to fill from the bottom till oil comes out the vent screw.
 
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