Though I have never worked on a Volvo EFI engine, I am making the assumption the Volvo setups utilize GM fuel injection components, thus making the Mercruiser and Volvo setups similar in nature. Therefore I would like to post a Merc question in this forum to pick all of your expert brains. This one is really stumping me... I look forward to any suggestions:
1998 Mercruiser 5.7L with TBI, Cool Fuel system and Bravo drive
Engine will start and run fine one day, then not start the next. If the engine does start, you can run it, shut it off and start it back up multiple times.
When it will not start there is no spark at the plugs nor at the ignition coil / cap wire. The boat does not have a lanyard kill switch. The batteries (2) are fully charged.
I have troubleshoot the following:
1. Ensured 12 vDC to the purple wire (at the ignition switch) with the key in the ON position and while cranking
2. Inspected cap and rotor to ensure they are dry and clean
3. Ensured clean connections between the ICM and pickup coil
4. Ensured 12 vDC at the ignition coil with the key in the ON position (NOTE: The two wires leaving one side of the coil going to the distributor BOTH have 12 vDC)
5. Removed the tachometer wire (gray) from the tach to rule out interference / grounding
6. Swapped in a known working ICM in lieu of existing
7. Swapped in a known working coil in lieu of existing
8. Plugged an LED into ports E & F on the DLC and jumped ports A & B. No trouble codes reported (only 12, which is normal)
Has anyone experienced a faulty pickup coil?
I am scratching my head at the next step...
Any ideas would be greatly welcomed. Thanks.
1998 Mercruiser 5.7L with TBI, Cool Fuel system and Bravo drive
Engine will start and run fine one day, then not start the next. If the engine does start, you can run it, shut it off and start it back up multiple times.
When it will not start there is no spark at the plugs nor at the ignition coil / cap wire. The boat does not have a lanyard kill switch. The batteries (2) are fully charged.
I have troubleshoot the following:
1. Ensured 12 vDC to the purple wire (at the ignition switch) with the key in the ON position and while cranking
2. Inspected cap and rotor to ensure they are dry and clean
3. Ensured clean connections between the ICM and pickup coil
4. Ensured 12 vDC at the ignition coil with the key in the ON position (NOTE: The two wires leaving one side of the coil going to the distributor BOTH have 12 vDC)
5. Removed the tachometer wire (gray) from the tach to rule out interference / grounding
6. Swapped in a known working ICM in lieu of existing
7. Swapped in a known working coil in lieu of existing
8. Plugged an LED into ports E & F on the DLC and jumped ports A & B. No trouble codes reported (only 12, which is normal)
Has anyone experienced a faulty pickup coil?
I am scratching my head at the next step...
Any ideas would be greatly welcomed. Thanks.