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4horse plug gap and water pump

P

plane

Member
"Just got an '83 J4BRHCTA.

"Just got an '83 J4BRHCTA. Seems to run fine in tank, haven't boat tested yet. Not getting any telltale stream of water from pump, just a heavy mist from ports in lower leg. Block is too warm to keep finger on for long, but not so much that it burns just by touching. Is that normal? Previously used on a sailboat, so not much sustained use.
Also, what's the correct gap on this for Champion L86 plugs? One manual from library says .030, the other says .040. This model uses breaker points. Thanks."
 
"The plugs now recommended acc

"The plugs now recommended according to boatsetup.com are QL86C or L86C gapped at 0.030" The plug gap recommendations were reduced for many engines (mine included) from 0.040 to 0.030 some years ago.
AFAIK there is no telltale on that engine, but if there is and there is no water coming from it the first thing to do is to check that it is not blocked.
You'd expect a spray, mist or droplets of water from the exhaust relief ports. The temperature sounds as though it might be a bit high but unless the water mist turns to steam or you find you cannot touch the cylinder head then its may be acceptable but you may well find that running on the boat under load it will get a lot hotter than in a tank. If the pump impeller has not been changed for a few years then a new one is probably due. Make sure you can get a good flow of water up the water-tube and through the engine when you have the lower unit off to do the pump."
 
"In agreement with Vic. The ig

"In agreement with Vic. The ignition is strictly a magneto setup whereas the plugs should be set to .030 . Points set to .020 as mentioned below.

A faint spray of water exits the small holes approximately halfway down the long exhaust housing. There is no other indication of water pressure. When in doubt, drop the lower unit and install a complete water pump..... that effort and the price of the pump is far less than what would be encountered by a extremely overheated engine.

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Thanks to both of you. Sounds

"Thanks to both of you. Sounds like I may need to replace impeller/pump. . .my manuals explain that, but I'm uncertain on a couple of things. It appears that the gearcase comes off just by removing the two bolts that connect it to the lower leg. Does the driveshaft just slip out of the powerhead and come with it? And does the water tube stay connected to the powerhead?"
 
Driveshaft simply slips out of

Driveshaft simply slips out of the powerhead/crankshaft. The water tube stays in the powerhead.
 
"Thanks Joe. I may become my o

"Thanks Joe. I may become my own shade-tree mechanic, at least for the simple stuff that doesn't require specialized tools."
 
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