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43L VOLVO PENTA

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tyeefisher

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"I have a 1992 Volvo penta 4.3

"I have a 1992 Volvo penta 4.3l engine modle 431b with a quadrajet carb and electronic ignition.I have had the following problem.The engine will start fine and warm up to 150.I start to plane out and hit 3000 rpm and the engine dies.I have gone thru the fule system and checked from the tank thru the carb.I replace the electronic fuel pump,replaced the water seperator filter and put a new rebuilt carb on.I thought it was a fuel issue but its not.When the engine dies their is fuel going into the carb just fine.The boat will start rightback up after it dies and will run for a short time and die.I checked the coil and have good spark.I have checked the obvious but can not figure out why it dies.The boat starts right up cold,runs at 150.It is starting to look like a electrical issue now.I have no idea what to look for next.Any help would be greatful. Thanks,Jeff"
 
"Jeff,

When you say " s

"Jeff,

When you say " start to plane out and hit 3000rpm and the engine dies". Does it backfire and sputter?? does it completely stall right out?? Does it have a loss of power and slowly konks out?? Give me a little more info if you could. If i cant help you someone in this forum will help you fix it. All of the guys here are a great help and never done me wrong"
 
"It just completely dies.Their

"It just completely dies.Their is no loss of electrical power to any part of the boat.It does not sputter,backfire or slowly die out.It just plain dies.My first thought was that it is starving for fuel but I have gone completly thru the whole fuel system all the way to a new rebuilt marine carb like the original.It will do the same thing at the dock after it is warmed up.I can push it to the max 5000 rpm and let it idle at 800.It only seems to happen after I bring it up to temp then shut it down. I then can start it right back up and put it at say 2000 rpm and will run for a short time fine then just die like you pulled the coil wire off. Thanks,"
 
It could be that that engine&#

It could be that that engine's particular ECU has a high temp cut off and the sensor is off calibration.
 
I at a loss and the boating se

I at a loss and the boating season ends in the pacific northwest aka Salem Orergon soon.None of the boat shops have a clue? that I have been too. Spent!
 
"It should not be that big a p

"It should not be that big a problem to find what is happening, but you may need some meters or ft of test cable and a multi meter.
1. Hook it to B+ on coil and ground and run. Do you loose 'power' at the coil when it stops?
2. Hook it up on the electric fuel pump and run. Do the pump loose power when it stops?
This for a start only."
 
"I tested the coil yesterday a

"I tested the coil yesterday and it was fine but I did not keep the tester on it till it died.The same with the fuel pump witch is new and it tested fine. But again I did not keep the tester on it when it died.I will do that today.Do you think I could have a bad ground somewhere in my system? Thanks,"
 
"Jeff,

A bad ground, a gree

"Jeff,

A bad ground, a green wire(corroded), or a pinched or severed wire could be the cause as well. Like Morten said shouldn't be a huge issue but a pain the a** none the less.
angry.gif
"
 
"what's this magic "te

"what's this magic "tester" that tests coils AND fuel pumps?

You test a coil with an ohm-meter
It's a bench test - off the engine.

To say you "didn't leave it on when it died" makes no sense. If you connect an ohm meter to a live coil you'll damage your meter and possibly damage the boats' electrical system.

The only way to test a fuel pump is with a pressure gauge.

Sounds like you *might* be testing for voltage at these components, which is valid, but you have not tested any of the components themselves.
If you are using a continuity tester, you may have damaged electronics on the boat."
 
"what's this magic tes

"what's this magic tester that tests - "12v power to"- coils AND fuel pumps?"

Hy stat - MR is looking to determine if +12v power is lost as the engine croaks - a good place to start.

Mike
 
Actually in this case a good &

Actually in this case a good "magic tester" would be a 12V lamp with two wires on it...
easier to "read" under operating conditions than a fancy meter.
 
"a good place to start, but a

"a good place to start, but a lousy place to stop if the issue isn't resolved.

Need to test the coil with an ohmmeter (or replace it)and test fuel pressure."
 
"I would hotwire the + of

"I would hotwire the + of the coil from the + of the battery for test purposes, to discard an intermittent electrical problem say in the ignition switch. If the problem does not reoccur, you know you have a loose wire between the ignition switch and the coil.

Just remember to remove the jumper when you want to stop the engine."
 
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