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4.5 Evinrude rejuvenation project help

tgr23

New member
I inherited an old 4.5 and have been getting it running again. So far I've pulled the carb, cleaned it up. New water pump. New gear oil, new plugs.

I got it running this weekend but a couple of issues. One is I don't get any cooling water peeing out the back. I could feel exhaust coming out, but no water. I've got it in a bucket of water that covers over the inlet holes about the anti-cavitation plate (is that what it's called?), but only by about 2 inches. Could that be the problem? Or is there a possible plumbing blockage up higher?

Any tips on adjusting the carb mixture knob? It didn't want to idle, which I didn't give it much time since I wasn't getting cooling pee.

Thanks!
 
The water level must absolutely be a few inches above the top od the water pump, otherwise the pump is turning in air which is what you describe.

It would be a good idea to double check your work as you may have damaged the impeller by not having the water pump submerged.... it is not a self priming pump. We normally have the water level about 3" above the top of the water pump.

There are two different type carburetors, as follows:
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(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

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(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason `to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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Thank you Joe!

My gut tells me you're probably right and I've torched the impeller. Hopefully I can just replace that. I'll get out the bigger garbage can next time.

I have the single needle valve. Should I be doing this tunning with the plastic knob off and then just put that on in a neutral setting once I have a good idle going?

Do you use the idle setting knob on the throttle handle ever? I assume I should set that to a neutral position also before i start tuning.

Also the setting marks on the throttle are worn away. Is there an online manual that talks about what was there originally?

Thanks again
 
Ugh. I pulled the LU and the impeller was fine, I replaced it anyway. Turned the drive shaft and it pumped water. Put it back on and still it does not pee water. Could there be a blockage somewhere? The engine sat in a basement for ten years. Help!

thanks
 
1 - I have the single needle valve. Should I be doing this tuning with the plastic knob off and then just put that on in a neutral setting once I have a good idle going?

2 - Do you use the idle setting knob on the throttle handle ever? I assume I should set that to a neutral position also before i start tuning.

3 - Also the setting marks on the throttle are worn away. Is there an online manual that talks about what was there originally? Thanks again

1 - I always take that plastic knob off when adjusting the needle valve... BUT... I do slip it onto the splines to do the turning rather than mess the splines up with pliers or whatever.

2 - I assume you're speaking of the mechanical stop adjustment on the end of the tiller/throttle handle? If so, and there is another manner in which the engine can be stopped (Stop Push Button?), then yes... you could adjust that so that the idle could be turned down to whatever idle you prefer without accidentally stopping the engine.

3 - If you're speaking of the clip on writing item that sits just to where the throttle grip handle ends... no, it's doubtful anything so minor would be in the manual. That normally states... Stop, Run, Fast... something on that order. It's there for no other reason than to cover up two retaining screws that are usually there. Everybody knows what happens when that handle is turned all the way counter clockwise... ZOOOOOM! :)
 
Thanks. Any thoughts on how to clean out the water pump plumbing? I took off the cover plate over the exhaust outlet but that didn’t yield an obvious solution.
 
How far should I be able to push a probe(small gauge wire) into the water outlet port (pee hole)? I found some light blockage at the exit but could only go into the port about 1/2 inch. Is that normal?

Also does the water tube that inserts into the water pump have a 45 deg angle cut into the end? I want to make sure it’s not broken and not making it into the pump. Any trick to making sure it’s getting into the pump?

What’s my next step if the blockage is further up in the engine? Is there any way to test for a clear passage with the lower unit off?

Thanks

 
Yes... Model E5RHCSS indicates a 1980 4.5hp Evinrude.

My part books do not include the "H" in that model number and does not show/list the water telltale elbow, hose, or plastic outlet on the 4.5hp model for some unknown reason... It does list the water telltale setup for the 7.5hp model. I can only assume that my books are the early version, being later updated to the "H" model which you have.

Normally the water telltale outlet setup consists of a nylon/plastic elbow outlet screwed into the top area of the exhaust baffle plate, with a hose leading from that elbow to the nylon/plastic outlet in the lower hood pan. I'd suggest removing the hose from the exhaust baffle plate elbow and running the engine to see if that elbow itself is restricted... and clean everything pertaining to that telltale outlet with a piece of single strand wire and air pressure.

The wire can be pushed into either nylon/plastic fitting without causing any damage.

Yes, the bottom of the water hose that slides into the pump grommet has a 45 degree angle to it.
 
Joe- My exhaust baffle doesn't have a plastic elbow or hose. I tried to attach a photo to see if that helps. The "A" hole appears to just be a drain from the cowling. "B" could be the tell tale outlet. This photo was before I cleared out that little bit of debri at that hole. I could only get a tiny but further in after that clearing. I haven't run it yet to see if that was it but I have my doubts.

IMG_9828.jpg
 
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