helpaBrotherout
New member
Hi Folks, I've spent a lot of time looking up solutions here but cannot seem to find anything that will solve my current issue.
I've got a 2007 Rinker 350 cruiser with twin 350 mags, efi. While I would love a full fix, I am at least looking for a bandaid to get through the upcoming weekend because I've called 10 different marina's and no one can get to me this week.
The problem: boat ran find on Saturday, took it out Sunday and was cruising at about 4500 RPM's for about 15 minutes when all of a sudden the starboard engine cut out. It didn't sputter or anything but acted as if someone shut off the key. The engine water temp and oil pressure are both fine. It allowed me to shift back into neutral and then reverse but once it got back in reverse, it was almost impossible to get it to shift back into neutral to restart. It starts back up fine and then throttle acts normal again but as soon as I get going over about 3,000 RPM, the engine just shuts off again. There are no alarms or anything beeping at me. After multiple attempts at getting back to speed, it kept dying so I parked and let it sit for a while. After it cooled off, I checked all of the fluids and lower unit lube and engine oil were both good but the power steering pump seems to have sprung a leak and was bone dry. I filled it up (kept leaking), went out to try again and same issue. The boat would let me drive at 3,000 RPM's indefinitely but as soon as I gave it more throttle, it would run for about 30-60 seconds and then just shut off again (engine revved fine and got on plane but just shuts off after). Every time it did this, the shift lever would give me the same problem with requiring a lot of force to get in/out of neutral but after it set for a few minutes, would go back to normal and engine would fire right back up.
I just had a complete tune up back in the fall with all new plugs, wires, etc... I do not know anyone with the hookup to plug into a computer on short notice to see what exactly the issue is.
Other than the power steering fluid leaking, everything else seems to be fine from a "dummy check" standpoint. The only sensor i can see that relates to this is the water pressure sensor on the power steering cooler. I have not tried to do any trouble shooting or repair to that as I pulled one of the hoses and fired up the engine and there seems to be plenty of water being circulated.
Aside from the obvious repair needed to the power steering pump, would that potentially cause an issue with the PS cooling and therefore the pressure switch? It seemed odd to me that the engine would fire right back up and let me drive but then would just shut off as if I turned off the key. I figured it would just limit the RPM's and keep me in safe mode, not allow me to go over the 3K RPMS and shut off the engine.
Is there a way to test this sensor without the proper cord and software (don't want to spend $5K on the plug and whatnot if I'm going to have the shop fix it in a few weeks anyway). I would like to at least get it to run for the memorial day weekend coming up in a few days. I'm assuming (could be assuming wrong) that as long as the engine isn't over heating, not leaking or low on oil, and lower unit oil is good, I can't do any catastrophic damage to the engine. I'm fine with burning up the PS pump if I can at least bypass the sensor as I'm thinking it's needing to be replaced anyhow, I just can't get someone to do it this weeek.
Any guidance/criticism is welcome!
Thank you!
I've got a 2007 Rinker 350 cruiser with twin 350 mags, efi. While I would love a full fix, I am at least looking for a bandaid to get through the upcoming weekend because I've called 10 different marina's and no one can get to me this week.
The problem: boat ran find on Saturday, took it out Sunday and was cruising at about 4500 RPM's for about 15 minutes when all of a sudden the starboard engine cut out. It didn't sputter or anything but acted as if someone shut off the key. The engine water temp and oil pressure are both fine. It allowed me to shift back into neutral and then reverse but once it got back in reverse, it was almost impossible to get it to shift back into neutral to restart. It starts back up fine and then throttle acts normal again but as soon as I get going over about 3,000 RPM, the engine just shuts off again. There are no alarms or anything beeping at me. After multiple attempts at getting back to speed, it kept dying so I parked and let it sit for a while. After it cooled off, I checked all of the fluids and lower unit lube and engine oil were both good but the power steering pump seems to have sprung a leak and was bone dry. I filled it up (kept leaking), went out to try again and same issue. The boat would let me drive at 3,000 RPM's indefinitely but as soon as I gave it more throttle, it would run for about 30-60 seconds and then just shut off again (engine revved fine and got on plane but just shuts off after). Every time it did this, the shift lever would give me the same problem with requiring a lot of force to get in/out of neutral but after it set for a few minutes, would go back to normal and engine would fire right back up.
I just had a complete tune up back in the fall with all new plugs, wires, etc... I do not know anyone with the hookup to plug into a computer on short notice to see what exactly the issue is.
Other than the power steering fluid leaking, everything else seems to be fine from a "dummy check" standpoint. The only sensor i can see that relates to this is the water pressure sensor on the power steering cooler. I have not tried to do any trouble shooting or repair to that as I pulled one of the hoses and fired up the engine and there seems to be plenty of water being circulated.
Aside from the obvious repair needed to the power steering pump, would that potentially cause an issue with the PS cooling and therefore the pressure switch? It seemed odd to me that the engine would fire right back up and let me drive but then would just shut off as if I turned off the key. I figured it would just limit the RPM's and keep me in safe mode, not allow me to go over the 3K RPMS and shut off the engine.
Is there a way to test this sensor without the proper cord and software (don't want to spend $5K on the plug and whatnot if I'm going to have the shop fix it in a few weeks anyway). I would like to at least get it to run for the memorial day weekend coming up in a few days. I'm assuming (could be assuming wrong) that as long as the engine isn't over heating, not leaking or low on oil, and lower unit oil is good, I can't do any catastrophic damage to the engine. I'm fine with burning up the PS pump if I can at least bypass the sensor as I'm thinking it's needing to be replaced anyhow, I just can't get someone to do it this weeek.
Any guidance/criticism is welcome!
Thank you!
