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35 hp evinrude no gas to cylinders

J

johnson110

Member
Hi I have this 1959 35 hp evinrude took carb apart very clean, checked spark blue spark compression well hard to pull feels strong, disconnected fuel ling to carb and spun engine it is getting fuel to carb, WILL NOT START sparks plug dry champion j6c took each pulg and ran them in lawn mower worked! Please help very frustrating! thanks in advanced!
 
If you have spark and compression, the problem is fuel... normally a clogged, fouled carburetor. CLean and rebuild it as needed.

However, the carburetor may simply need adjusting properly as follows.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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How did you determine there is no gas to the cylinders? Dry plugs?? They should be dry. If they were wet, it would indicate too much gas (flooded). The fuel passages in that carburetor are big enough to throw a screaming cat through. Since you had it apart and proclaim it very clean, if you have the needles preset, there is no reason you won't get gas through.

I have a favorite saying: Most carburetor problems aren't. Have you checked the coils? If they haven't already been replaced, I can just about guarantee they are shot (cracked). 100% of OMC coils of that age are. I don't care if it does have spark, those things are the Great Deceiver. Everybody blames it on the carburetor when it won't run.
 
Ok, Got it running by heating up spark plugs shut it down no water pumping. Dropping lower unit took out five bolts drive shaft will not come out of power head have engine upside down soaking in pb blaster on driveshaft!
 
Due to the design of that motor, it is fairly unusual for the shaft splines to rust. Are you sure that is the problem? Have you got all the bolts out, including the big one hidden by the rear cover? And the shift rod connector?
 
Yes all bolts are out and the drive shaft came out of lower unit the engine sits upside down with the drive shaft stuck in the power head, I ahve been soaking it wit pb blaster and have vise grips on the shaft hitting it with hammer but no- go so far!
 
Pull the powerhead, hang upside down by the drive shaft, and frap around the sides of the drive shaft close to the powerhead with an air hammer. It might work. And maybe not. Thank the last guy that had it apart and left the o-ring out letting water in and rusting of the splines
 
What I thought about doing is putting a clamp on driveshaft with two metal plates at base [ motor upside down drive shaft sticking up] then take my ball joint fork wedging in between the metal plate and clamp to drive the shaft out ?
 
Did just what I said I now have ball joint fork wedged between metal flat plate with washer piece on threaded pipe and clamp on top, waiting for it to pop!
 
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