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302STHRCNG Drive Removal to Replace Waterpump

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rka001

New member
My drive will not go into fwd or reverse and I hear a grinding type noise coming from the drive when I put it into either gear. I believe based on the symptons that I have a stripped WP shaft.

Getting ready to drop the subject drive for my first time working on an outdrive. I have the OMC manual but it is not clear at least in my feeble mind what is the easiest way to access the waterpump and waterpump shaft. I believe I need to pull the entire drive, disassemble the intermediate and be able to access the WP without seperating the lower and upper gears.Does this make sense?

I have read that it may be possible to leave the drive in place , drop the lower gear case and access the WP from below in the upper gear.

What is the best approach for this repair?


Thank you for time and advice
 
the manual does say to remove the drive. Then you take the top of the exhaust housing off and lift the upper gearbox out and work on it on the bench.
I feel this is the best way as long as the shift cable will come out - if it resists, and you fear damaging it, the lower unit can be dropped and tethered off to the side while you work on the impeller upside down underneath the upper. I haven't done it that way, but some report success with that method.
You have the factory manual? start with the part about ow to remove the shift cable and believe it when it says to take the battery out of the boat - you want to do that.
 
Yes, I have the original factory manual. So to be clear, your recommendation is to disconnect the shift cable inside the boat pull thru the transom and then pull the drive and access the WP thru the intermediate. If there is trouble getting the cable thru the transom then try the lower unit method without pulling the drive.
 
rka001 said:
So to be clear, your recommendation is to disconnect the shift cable inside the boat pull thru the transom and then pull the drive and access the WP thru the intermediate. If there is trouble getting the cable thru the transom then try the lower unit method without pulling the drive.
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that's what I was saying - it's just that the shift cable is >$500 so if you touch one of the bare cables to batt + or you tear the rubber it's a heartbreaker. However, I think pulling the drive to replace the impeller every 2 or 3 years is a good way to keep the cable from seizing in the intermediate.
also there is a clamp with a bolt on the intermediate on the rear that clamps the cable to the housing - watch for that
 
I just bought the boat a couple of months ago so I am not sure when the last time it was pulled. Since this is my first attempt at working on a sterndrive I would like to take the safest route which sounds like the removal of the lower unit vice pulling the whole drive. Since it wont go into fwd or neutral i am assuming this is a water pump shaft problem. Wont know until I get into it. The manual talks to a number of special tools. Do you think I can get by without them? Are there any must have OMC tools to do this work? Any other advice besides the battery removal and TLC on the shift cable?

I am starting this weekend so will give you some feedback when done

Thanks
 
I can't think of any special tools for that job. Just regular hand tools.

only other advise is use finesse on bolts - they are stainless in aluminum - if they aren't coming out easily, use lots of penetrating oil and don't be afraid to use a torch and invest the time to get them out without breaking them. I have one of those propylene torches - better than propane for these imo
 
Thx hystat and mm. I am assuming I would have to take off the intermediate cover to see the ball gears while turning the prop? Which coupler are you talkin about? The eng to drive coupler? Sorry if these are stupid questions I don't have the manual in front of me today. Thx as always
 
Just look from the top behind the drive , that's where a "tattle tale " sprout of water pees on the ball gears.

You could raise the drive halfway and look from under the drive at the ball gears.
 
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