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290 PDS replacement question

tedm2

Contributing Member
After 2 years of just sitting unused and then a head rebuild I finally got the boat in the water to test. Everything worked well for a couple of days and until I started to get a intermittent vibration. 1/2 second vibration 1/2 second smooth running at any speed over 1200rpm. After pulling the boat I found the bellows full of water. It had hole in it at the top near the rear clamp. I did not find any water in the outdrive and will pressure/vacuum test it after it gets back together.
While I would like to pull the motor and replace both PDS bearings but no longer have a means in which to pull the motor. Is it possible to change just the rear bearing and seal from the rear? I realize this is not the preferred fix but it is what is possible at the moment. I have tried to separate the engine and flywheel cover in the engine compartment before and was not able to so that I not an option.
Should I replace the U-joint bearings as well? Does anyone have aftermarket part numbers for them? It looks like they can all be replaced without removing from the transmission with a bit of patience (hopefully)

86 Albemarle 24
320HP MPFI
290 flywheel cover
SP-A2 transmission
1.95 DP lower
 
Me in blue text.

After 2 years of just sitting unused .......... After pulling the boat I found the bellows full of water. It had hole in it at the top near the rear clamp. I did not find any water in the outdrive and will pressure/vacuum test it after it gets back together.
Ted, if water sat within the drive shaft belows area for 2 years, I can almost assure you that the transmission's main drive gear seal surface washer has suffered from rust.
When these rust, they become abrasive, and cut away at the seal lip. It may be holding now, but given time it eventually cause it to fail.


While I would like to pull the motor and replace both PDS bearings but no longer have a means in which to pull the motor. Is it possible to change just the rear bearing and seal from the rear?
Certainly not easily.... and even if we could, there is a small compression type snap ring that must be removed.... and we'd need to find a way to grab onto the ball cage of the 6206 bearing, and over-come it's friction fit against the PDS.


I realize this is not the preferred fix but it is what is possible at the moment. I have tried to separate the engine and flywheel cover in the engine compartment before and was not able to so that I not an option.
The Flywheel Cover alignment dowels are probably rusty, and are preventing it from separation.
Try applying heat to the F/C at this area.
Also try to separate the two...... then move them back together..... then repeat this several times.

Should I replace the U-joint bearings as well?
Yes... absolutely replace the two bearing crosses!

Does anyone have aftermarket part numbers for them?
If internally clipped they will be a Spicer 5-1306X.
If externally clipped, I can find a German brand p/n for you.


It looks like they can all be replaced without removing from the transmission with a bit of patience (hopefully)
You will have the transmission removed from the Intermediate when you address the PDS bearings.

Are you asking if the bearing crosses can be replaced without removing the Bearing Box from the transmission????


86 Albemarle 24
320HP MPFI

290 flywheel cover
SP-A2 transmission
1.95 DP lower
Is this a 5.7L or a 6.2L?
If 6.2L, you may do better with the 1.78:1 DP lower in a smaller 24 footer.
Just a thought!
 
Not being able to separate the flywheel housing from the block could also be the driveshaft stuck in the drive plate mounted on the flywheel.
 
Not being able to separate the flywheel housing from the block could also be the driveshaft stuck in the drive plate mounted on the flywheel.

Good point... been there/done this before.

If the PDS B/W splines are stuck (rust) in the B/W coupler, there is a remedy for this by boring a small hole into the Flywheel Cover at the B/W bolt pattern radius. This gives us bolt removal access when the crankshaft is partially rotated 3 times.
If the PDS splines are what have been causing the flywheel cover to not release from the rear engine flange........... this is a solution.
The Borg Warner coupler can then be removed from the PDS by gently driving it FWD and AFT several times.
 

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Rick
my replies are in green

After 2 years of just sitting unused ..........
After pulling the boat I found the bellows full of water. It had hole in it at the top near the rear clamp. I did not find any water in the outdrive and will pressure/vacuum test it after it gets back together.
Ted, if water sat within the drive shaft belows area for 2 years, I can almost assure you that the transmission's main drive gear seal surface washer has suffered from rust.
When these rust, they become abrasive, and cut away at the seal lip. It may be holding now, but given time it eventually cause it to fail.

The bellows were new 2 1/2 years ago. It may have been in the water once if at all since the bellows were replaced. Hole looks like it may have been a mouse, also there was a birds nest in there that may explain the hole. It certainly has not been under water prior to my recent test runs. There is no rust on the crosses or shafts even 3 days after pulling the transmission out. I guess the grease that flew from the PDS coated everything and has protected the surfaces from rusting. Also since the hole was at the top and the bellows were full, no oxygen would be available for rust to form during the time it was under water. All surfaces

While I would like to pull the motor and replace both PDS bearings but no longer have a means in which to pull the motor. Is it possible to change just the rear bearing and seal from the rear?
Certainly not easily.... and even if we could, there is a small compression type snap ring that must be removed.... and we'd need to find a way to grab onto the ball cage of the 6206 bearing, and over-come it's friction fit against the PDS.
Bummer!!


I
realize this is not the preferred fix but it is what is possible at the moment. I have tried to separate the engine and flywheel cover in the engine compartment before and was not able to so that I not an option.
The Flywheel Cover alignment dowels are probably rusty, and are preventing it from separation.
Try applying heat to the F/C at this area.
Also try to separate the two...... then move them back together..... then repeat this several times.

We tried taking motor out, leaving the flywheel cover when I installed the new engine since 3 of the clamp ring bolts were frozen. Spent 3 hours trying to get to all of the bolts of the flywheel cover. Never could get to 2 of them, had to drill out the clamp ring bolts. When the motor was out and the last 2 PDS bolts were removed, the motor separated from the PDS with a slight tug

Should I replace the U-joint bearings as well?
Yes... absolutely replace the two bearing crosses!

Does anyone have aftermarket part numbers for them?
If internally clipped they will be a Spicer 5-1306X.
If externally clipped, I can find a German brand p/n for you.

Not sure but I do think they are internally clipped. I will check


It looks like they can all be replaced without removing from the transmission with a bit of patience (hopefully)
You will have the transmission removed from the Intermediate when you address the PDS bearings.


Are you asking if the bearing crosses can be replaced without removing the Bearing Box from the transmission????

Yes, without removing the bearing box

This is a 5.7L engine


 
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