270 outdrive

[guppy]

Just finished engine, aq225e, new elbows, alt, carb rebuilt, belts and hoses. Engine seems to run fine, went to change bellows and found the ujoints and all related assembly completely rusted out beyond any repair. Had no water in outdrive oil, seemed to be a oily residue on everything in bellows, rust caking off of everything. The lower section of the gear housing where bellows attaches has been partially broken off. Outdrive model number is 27148629b. Looks like if I want to put it together and use it I will have to pull engine to change pds bearings? Also where could I find a good used yoke assembly. I know boat means bust out another thousand, did that twice already, Is there any reputable rebuilders of these outdrives? Would it hurt anything to run engine without the outdrive connected? Will it still pick up water, impeller is crank driven. Would still like to know where the water and oil came from since this boat hasn't been in the water for 5 years. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, don't really want to sell it but running out of $ money rather quickly.

 

[RicardoMarine]

................

1. seemed to be a oily residue on everything in bellows, rust caking off of everything.
   
   
2. The lower section of the gear housing where bellows attaches has been partially broken off. Outdrive model number is 27148629b.
   
   
3. Looks like if I want to put it together and use it I will have to pull engine to change pds bearings?
   
   
4. Also where could I find a good used yoke assembly. I know boat means bust out another thousand, did that twice already,
   
   
5. Is there any reputable rebuilders of these outdrives?
   
   
6. Would it hurt anything to run engine without the outdrive connected?
   
   
7. Will it still pick up water, impeller is crank driven.
   
   
8. Would still like to know where the water and oil came from since this boat hasn't been in the water for 5 years.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, don't really want to sell it but running out of $ money rather quickly.

1. It's possible that the drive shaft bellows leaked water at one point. Water then entered this area, the main seal surface washer rusted since this is carbon steel.
   The rust cut away at the seal lip, and oil began leaking from the transmission into this area.
   Been there/seen it many times.
   
   
2. This section is to prevent the bellows from collapsing during the travel to and from the full up position.
   You want to avoid the full up position anyway.
   
   
3. If this is still using the 1 pc red fywheel cover..... yes, it will be a double bearing PDS.
   1- 6206 bearing, 1- 6007 bearing, and 2- 35x62x7mm seals in either TCM or Timken.
   
   You'll also need to modify the tips of a long needle nose pliers for accessing the two large snap rings.
   
   
4. I have these for sale.
   
   
5. In areas where the AQ series mechanics are not easily available, people ship these drives to me for this typle of work.
   
   
6. NO.... as long as you supply cooling water to the crankshaft sea water pump.
   
   
7. A..... Yes.... if you supply water to the "S" hose.
   B.... Yes.... if you remove the transmission only, and leave the rest and use the garden hose and water muffs.
   
   
8. See #1 above.

NOTE: when doing AQ series Volvo Penta out drive work, pull the transmission ONLY first...... and re-install the transmission last.
If you must remove the Intermediate housing and/or lower drive unit..... still do the above.
Much much easier this way.



.

 

[RicardoMarine]

I missed this earlier.

Outdrive model number is 27148629b.
Depending on the year model, this could be a 275 drive.
The "B" is the designation for the V-8 final drive ratio..... which is 1.61:1.

Looks like if I want to put it together and use it I will have to pull engine to change pds bearings?
Smart move. A failure here may cost you dearly.
See previous post for bearing/seal p/n's.


Would still like to know where the water and oil came from since this boat hasn't been in the water for 5 years.
A drive that has been stored fully, or even partially close to "Full Up", damages these bellows.
They are not intended to be left in this position for any length of time.

Keep your drive stored in the "down" postion, and raise it no more than necessary to clear the road when trailering.

 

[guppy]

Thanks for the reply Rick, learning more every day. Was able to locally source bearing and seals for pds. How would one contact you if interested in getting these yokes and cross bearing assemblies? Debating one time frame, wife wants camping trailer finished and cleaned before I work on big boat again. Found that po had installed clamps incorrectly on bellows and wore hole, that's how water entered. If changing cross bearing assembly with new and seal surface washer do you need to reset depth or can you just use old shims and correctly torque yoke? Thanks again.

 

[RicardoMarine]

Thanks for the reply Rick, learning more every day. Was able to locally source bearing and seals for pds.

1. How would one contact you if interested in getting these yokes and cross bearing assemblies?
   
   
2. Debating one time frame, wife wants camping trailer finished and cleaned before I work on big boat again.
   
   
   
3. Found that po had installed clamps incorrectly on bellows and wore hole, that's how water entered.
   
   
4. If changing cross bearing assembly with new and seal surface washer do you need to reset depth or can you just use old shims and correctly torque yoke?

1. Send a PM to me, and we can exchange email addresses.
   
   
2. Add up all of the nice things that you've done for her lately, and play that card.
   You'll either come out a winner, or you'll be in the dog house for even trying.
   
   
   
3. Yep.... I see this fairly often.
   Never..... repeat.... never use anything but the Euro style band clamps on your drive shaft bellows.
   The OEM band clamps are the Euro style.... and the typical worm drive clamp "worm screw cuts" may cut into the material.
   
   
4. If the seal surface washer cannot be polished out and saved, a new one must be used.
   Here's the problem for average Joe user.
   These parts are not machined closely enough to simply throw a new one in, and expect the pre-tension against the two bearings to remain the same.
   The shim control is within the recess at the AFT side of this washer.
   .002" or .003" here makes a tremendous difference.
   
   

 

[guppy]

Got back from vacation, now time to work on the boat again. Found a used 271 outdrive serial #27119978d, 4 cylinder aq140?. Have a 270 drive serial#27148629b from an aq 225e sbc 305. Would it be possible to do a direct swap and just put a bigger prop on or can I just change transmission and reshim the halves to get correct clearences? Will still need to replace drive yoke and cross bearings due to being course splined vs fine splined. Complete outdrive with suspension fork and reverse lock mechanism are included for 150$. Came of a complete repower with no drive issues , blown engine and customer wanted something newer and cheaper to repair. Other option I am exploring is a used dp drive, was replaced due to oil turning dark after being disassembled and resealed, no water entered or oil escaped, free or really really cheap. Any input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks The Guppy

 

[boatdoc55]

Gear ratio change on the Volvo's is in the lower so the upper will bolt on with proper shimming and the proper coupler to the drive shaft. Your original should be a coarse spline and the newer V8 drive may be the fine spline, I'm not sure.

 

[RicardoMarine]

...............................

Gary is correct.
For the AQ series V/P, the final and over-all drive ratio change occurs in the lower unit..... not with the transmission.

However, there is one exception, and that is with the DP-E drives..... but there's no sense in going into that for your needs.

Found a used 271 outdrive serial #27119978d, 4 cylinder aq140?.
The first numbers 271 indicate a 270 or 275 drive.


Have a 270 drive serial#27148629b from an aq 225e sbc 305.
The "B" would represent the 1.61:1 ratio... if no one has messed with it.


Would it be possible to do a direct swap
The ratio must be correct for the engine.... no substitutes.

and just put a bigger prop on
We cannot prop ourselves out of an incorrect ratio.... it just doesn't work.


or can I just change transmission and reshim the halves to get correct clearences?
If that gains you what you need..... yes!
This is not a conventional bearing preload. The shimming controls the squeeze against the lower driven gear bearing retainer.
The squeeze must be approx .003".
Best way to achieve this, is to over-shim, set the transmission in place minus O-rings, and just snug it down.
Take many feeler gauge readings between the trans and Intermediate housing.
Reduce the shim pack to give you a shim compression of .003" when fully tightened in place.
The two mating surfaces should close up to a ZERO gap or clearance.... yet the .003" squeeze will exist..... you just won't see it.

The re-shimming for a lower unit is quite different, and involves an A and B dimension.


Will still need to replace drive yoke and cross bearings due to being course splined vs fine splined.
Understood.


Complete outdrive with suspension fork and reverse lock mechanism are included for 150$. Came of a complete repower with no drive issues , blown engine and customer wanted something newer and cheaper to repair.


Other option I am exploring is a used dp drive, was replaced due to oil turning dark after being disassembled and resealed, no water entered or oil escaped, free or really really cheap.
I find that with any used DP drive, it is best to pull the prop shaft bearing carrier and take a look inside.
It will cost you your time and two O-rings only.

Here are your DP ratios:

Inline 4's and some V-6's........... 2.30:1
Small Block V-8's...................... 1.95:1
BB V-8's.................................... 1.78:1

Same principle applies..... there is no substitute for the correct ratio for a given engine.