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270 Outdrive water intake blocked????

G

Goodfella

New member
Hi All,

After being laid up for 1.5 years my Volvo 270 outdrive is not letting water up into the engine bay....

I have disconnected the hose from the transom and tried to suck water up through the outdrive, absolutely no give at all.
I have poured water down and blown down the outdrive and it wont let water back down it (is this normal, if so then maybe the non return valve is stuck closed?)

The impeller is sucking water fine from a bucket of water.

I have read the usual suspects are a rubber z pipe has a hole in it or the "elbow joint" is correded that the Z pipe connects to, but I'm not convinced this is the problem as either of these would let water out when blowing it through, no? (also no air is being sucked up through the outdrive either)

So I am thinking that something is blocking the water coming through? - Maybe pour some rubber friendly (if it exists!) drain de-gunker down it and blow harder!

Thanks for any help!

G.
 
There is no non-return valve in Volvo drives. Possible candidates for your scenario:
mud sucked up into drive inlet/water passage and hardened over the winter
Little critters have grown inside the passage

in any case, the Volvo drive has "gills" on the front/side that are the normal water inlets. There is a small hole in the bottom of the drive under the gills centered on the "fin" that is a straight shot up the water passage.
Try snaking it with a coat hanger.

If that does not work, you will have to remove ( and inspect) the elbow on the drive (replace it and it's gasket as long as you have it off!) and probe downwards to find obstruction. It's supposed to be a straight shot down to the gills.

If passage is blocked, you will have to make sure you clean that bore totally, otherwise you won't get enough water flow "at speed".
 
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Bob makes some good points.

You probably need to do some service/maintenance work anyway.

So... pull the transmission from the Intermediate housing. (this allows for easy water neck and bellows access and replacement)
With the transmission removed, pull the water neck fitting.
If the hose-neck shows any signs of corrosion, replace it and the special beaded gasket underneath it.


With the water neck removed, you'll have a straight shot down into the pivot tube (aka water tube), but will stop once you enter the lower unit bend.
Probe this area with a wire or something more suitable.
Blast with compressed air downwards..... and then shop vac it out.

Look for crustaceans that may have gotten into and up above the "gills", as Bob put it.


Check the condition of the "S" hose.
Perhaps probe this towards the engine side.
Blast with compressed air... then again, shop vac it out.
Also, clear any of the whitish, dusty corrosion from the ID of the "S" hose where it connects to the neck.

Pull the suction hose from the chrome water tube on the inside of the transom shield.
Make sure that the chrome water tube and the hose are clear.


With everything now clear and clean, and all re-connected, use your shop vac at the area of the seawater pump suction hose.
See if it can pull through without any restriction.
If need be, now supply water down this area. It should exit the gills and/or lower drain hole freely.

Check the seawater pump impeller to make sure that it was not damaged during your "no water" run time.
(these can become damaged when dry, and in short order)




.
 
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I had the same issue frequently with my old Bayliner. Replaced the elbow part 3 times. Replaced the hose once. But the last year I had it, it was actually bushing part number 814388 that had almost completely worn away. The leg was sucking in air. Just would not draw water into the system on plane. The plastic bushing sits at the top of the tube but below the elbow and hose everyone replaces. If yours is worn and gone, you won't even know it ever should have been there unless you look at the exploded view of the leg. I noticed when I went to replace the elbow and gasket again, the top of the tube would wobble around and not provide a stable place for the ring on the elbow gasket to sit. Low and behold that bushing should have kept the tube from wobbling around. That wobbling was tearing up that gasket.

One minor disclaimer is that you have a 270 and mine was a 275, but I thought I would share so you could investigate that also.
 
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Chris, differences between the 270 and 275.

275 transmission underwent a few changes..... gear design change, added oil fill port.
275 lower unit prop shaft is internally threaded for the spinner's center keeper or locking bolt.
275 exhaust outlet is moved further AFT.

275A transmission underwent further changes now with an integral BB and Clamping Collar, and crush sleeve (aka pre-tension sleeve) pre-load arrangement.


As for the seawater path... nothing has changed.

.
 
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