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270 out drive

What motor,year profile?
You need to drain the oil.Then remove the back cover.The shift linkage.Then the bellows clamp.Then the 4 allenhead (not the top)bolts1/4".The top gear set should lift up and turn.Then the u-joints should pull out with the gear set. Replace the u-joint the regular way.
Then you remove the back clamp on the bellows.
The drive shaft will be sticking out.Grab it and see if there is any play.ANY AT All? Yes,then the bearings need to be replaced.The motor needs to come out if the bearings are bad.
There is a 5/16(metric) allen head plug on the back of the drive.That is the fill for the drive.
It will take 2-3 Qt of 30 wt.
Oh yea get a factory manual.It will help immensely.
PROFILE?? You might be close to someone who can help.J
 
There is nothing in your profile that indicates the water you run in.
If in salt or brackish water, I'm going to offer you a caution regarding the removal of the four Bearing Box clamping collar bolts.
Please see this Volvo Penta AQ series thread. There should be info here that will help you.

As for the fill port that Jerry mentioned, the 270 will not have this.
The 270 very much resembles the 275..... the 275 will offer this port.

If the OEM drive shaft has not been changed, the replacement bearing crosses can be a Spicer 5-1306X..... about $14 each if you know where/how to buy them.
No need to purchase the expensive OEM..... the quality is no different if you use Spicer... plus the Spicer is grease serviceable!

This job requires eight new O-rings total if a 270....... fill plug gasket if this is a 275..... and that's if you do not remove the top cover!
Be sure to replace them..... they are not designed to go a second time around.

If the eccentric piston seal has not been replaced, I'd encourage you to do so.
Likewise with prop shaft seals.
Either requires additional O-rings.

Perform a pressure/vacuum leak-down prior to installing your oil.

DO NOT install Gear Oil...... as in heavy weight oil.... for a single prop drive!


Regarding my caution:
Most all V/P female threads will be SS alloy thread inserts (much like a Heli-coil).
These hold up very well, and pose no issues.
The four bolts are carbon steel.
If we have trouble with corrosion, it will be at these four collar bolts and thread inserts within the main gear case.
Rounding out the hex sockets is what we must avoid.
Drilling these out is not a good option..... Milling them out, is... but is expensive!
This collar has four delicate sholders that must remain pristine.
A new collar is about $380, and must be shimmed to the Bearing Box.
Heat from a small propane or Mapp gas torch is your friend on any of these.
The heat is not enough to cause any damage to the aluminum.

Point being.... if you suspect any corrosion, apply heat to the main case before attempting to remove these four bolts.

(watch for the shims so that they are disturbed, and can go right back in as they were)


DO NOT run a thread cutting tap into these threads, as some do to clean up the threads.
If they must be cleaned up, use a lubricated bolt...... or last effort, a roll form tap.


If no corrosion issues, it will be a fairly straight forward task.
Have fun.... good luck!

Disclaimer and note:
I mention these things, while sounding like a ragging old woman, because you can't believe what I occsionally see when the wrong procedures are used.

Carry on! :)

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