Excellent! That just may have been the best $600 you ever spent.
Did you have the seawater pumps connected to a water source (like a big bucket)? The impellers in those belt-driven seawater pumps on the front of the engine won't last long running dry.
I hate to spend your money, but I'd replace the manifolds and risers on both engines. You really don't have any history on them and they are like time bombs on marine engines. There are modern center-riser type manifolds for the M360 as well as risers and gaskets available from Barr. While you're at it, replace all the hoses and hose clamps. You'll have to cut some of the old hoses off anyway.
The seawater pumps on the front of the engines are Sherwood G7B. You will definitely want to replace the impellers and the pump cams before running the engines. There are impeller kits and cams available for these pumps. Just Google Sherwood G7B.
Your Sendure heat exchangers each cost more than you paid for both engines and there are parts (gaskets, etc.) readily available for them.
Your transmission/prop question may have to wait until you physically get the boat in your possession. I'm not clear on what transmissions are in that boat now. Are they V-drives? If so, you may have to use them on your new 360s. If they are straight drives, you can probably use the transmissions that you got with the 360s. In either case, you're stuck with the reduction ratios you have. A good prop shop can probably work out a prop diameter/pitch that will work.
Bill
Bill, thanks for the reply, we ran the motors dry, and for a very short time, #1 maybe a minute and #2 for just a few seconds as the float was sticking in the carb.
We ran them with the belts off, truned them over with the plugs out to get oil pressure before we fired them up.
I pressure checked the cooling and both of the heat exchangers are leaking, one held pressure and slowly dropped the other would not build pressure as the HE was leaking bad enough. The next step will be to get the motors properly supported via the motor mounts on some dunnage so we can run them for a longer period. Fill the closed cooling, connect a temperature & oil pressure gauge. I will also check the tranny pressure and have a handheld tach for RPM's.
At that point I will plan to run the motors for 1/2 hour or so, get them up to temp, check the intake for leaks, etc......I think we have one or two sticking valves so the compression test we did on Saturday just tells me we dont have any badly burnt vavles or holes in a piston. Once they have been run I will check again and see how the numbers look, so far everything is between 100-160 and after we have run it for a while I hope all cylinders will come up within 10 percent of each other......
I will connect a hose to the raw water intake, I may pull the raw water pumps apart and rebuild unless I can just run water thru them? Is that possible or do they need to turn? Or I suppose I could remove the pump and just install a short piece of tubing....? Any advice or suggestions on that?
Before the motors go in the boat, we will remove everthing except the intake (unless it leaks), seal and clean the oil pan and valve covers, R&R main seals, new closed water pump, fuel pumps..........and so on, its a lot easier to work on the motor out of the boat. The exhaust manifolds are a big question.....? I dont know if we will have room for the center rise style, several folks have recomended that conversion, just wondering what is the advantage?
If we have to use the log style I hope we can pressure test what we have and reuse....? Maybe thats wishful thinking? Any thoughts on that?
Any recomendations on where to send the heat exchangers to rebuild? Preferably someone on the west coast, I can probably solder them up myself but I think I would be better off sending them to someone that does those routinely.
I have a question about the trannies, the current motors are 318's with Paragons (straight drive), whats the likelyhood the BW velvet drives are the same lenght as the Paragon's.......? will I have to modify the prop shaft? What does the coupling look like?
I am at a real disadvantage with some of this stuff as I dont have the boat here to look at.............but have the time right now to at least make some headway on the motors I have.
Thanks to all.......... John