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260 hp mercruiser alpha 1 quicksilver outdrive

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baitbag

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At the end of last years boating season I had two outdrive issues that needed repair. The first problem was that when shifting into gear, the throttle would advance too much before the actual shift took place. As a result there would be a slamming noise every time I engaged into forward or reverse gear. Problem #2 consists of an issue with shifting from either forward or reverse back into neutral. During that procedure, when bringing back the shift lever into the neutral position, it is usually necessary to go slightly past the neutral detent position for the desired shift to be completed.
A the start of last years 2015 boating season, I had a mechanic install a new short shift cable that goes into the outdrive. This spring I recently replaced the shift control box cables with new shift and throttle cables and adjusted the shift cables as per specification at the shift bracket. Before launching my boat I ran the engine and tested that the shifter worked several times, which it did without issue. I just launched the boat and confirmed that the slamming into gear problem has been rectified, but the Problem #2 (issue with the over travel/neutral detent position) has come back since the boat has been put in the water. What is left to check or replace? Would the switch on the shift bracket be a possible cause? If so how do I check it? Is there any shift linkage that could be worn inside the outdrive that can be causing the problem? Why is this happening in the water and not on land?
 
baitbag said:
At the end of last years boating season I had two outdrive issues that needed repair. The first problem was that when shifting into gear, the throttle would advance too much before the actual shift took place. As a result there would be a slamming noise every time I engaged into forward or reverse gear. Problem #2 consists of an issue with shifting from either forward or reverse back into neutral. During that procedure, when bringing back the shift lever into the neutral position, it is usually necessary to go slightly past the neutral detent position for the desired shift to be completed.
A the start of last years 2015 boating season, I had a mechanic install a new short shift cable that goes into the outdrive. This spring I recently replaced the shift control box cables with new shift and throttle cables and adjusted the shift cables as per specification at the shift bracket. Before launching my boat I ran the engine and tested that the shifter worked several times, which it did without issue. I just launched the boat and confirmed that the slamming into gear problem has been rectified, but the Problem #2 (issue with the over travel/neutral detent position) has come back since the boat has been put in the water. What is left to check or replace? Would the switch on the shift bracket be a possible cause? If so how do I check it? Is there any shift linkage that could be worn inside the outdrive that can be causing the problem? Why is this happening in the water and not on land?
Click to expand...

Our mercruiser is the same, comes out of gear easier if you apply some pressure past neutral. I'd say it's fairly normal, it is the cable not quite pulling the interrupter far enough. Could try tweaking the micro switch to engage earlier? Otherwise its probably slop in the control box/cables.

It won't happen out of water because the interrupter is not actuated. There's no weight on the dog clutch so they pull apart effortlessly and never produce tension in the shift cable.
 
Start you motor (with water to drive) on land.

find the interrupter switch and depress the roller lever, the motor should stall. If it does not check wiring or ohm the switch out to see if it is nonfunctional.

It is a normally open switch and when the roller lever is depress it closes creating a short circuit to ground.

One wire goes to ignition the other to ground.
 
If the switch does not stall the motor (not using the shift bracket linkage, only your finger) then the switch is defective OR....

If you were to touch a jumper across the two leads that the wires are attached to at the switch that should stall the motor. If it does not then you have a wiring issue.

You should confirm that first.

If this is the case you need to find what connection is not connected.

Again

one wire goes to ground. The other goes to the ignition (either the neg side of coil or to one of the wires attached to the ignition sensor that is inside the distributor) The connection is in the wire harness not inside the distributor..

If the wires are good and the switch is defective you are kind of screwed. That switch is no longer available. Mercury makes you upgrade to a whole new shift bracket and switch design.............$$$$$$$

You might find one on Ebay but they want around $50-$75 for one. If you now of a used parts dealer or somewhere that has a lot of junk boats then you might be able to find one used.
 
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Thanks for the info. I will try those tests first. If the switch tests OK which I suspect will be the case, because I've heard the engine rpm fluctuate ( lower to higher)SOMETIMES when jiggling the shift lever going back into the neutral detent position, then what would be the next thing to check/adjust? The boat is presently out on a mooring that I have to row out to, and I can hopefully save a little time by doing as much troubleshooting as I can when I'm out on it. The boat is a 1986 vintage and I'm wondering if there is wear on the switch and associated moving parts. If wear is a problem, is there a way/procedure to reposition the switch slightly to compensate for this?
 
The roller should be in the center of the V notch plastic piece when in neutral.

slowly push the roller away from the at rest position 1/8" from bottom of V notch.

The switch should be made (closed) at this point. Use a 1/8 " diameter drill bit to set the space between the roller and the V notch.

If the switch does not make bend the switch arm GENTLY about 1/4 inch away from roller and bend it slightly and retest.

Continue to bend slightly until switch is made (closed). this is the set up of the switch.

Also remember that shifting into gear is done quickly and firmly and so is shifting out of gear. No slow movement.
 
Thanks for the quick info. I'll check this after I test the switch. I was checking the availability of some of the moving mercruiser shift bracket parts that have the potential to wear and I see that there is a designation for an old and a new version of the shift bracket parts for the 1986 engine I have. Any idea on how to identify which version I have, should I need to order anything
 
If yours is original you have the old style micro switch with the arm and roller. The new switch mounts differently and is a center actuated micro switch. No arm and no roller and cannot be adapted.
The new one will not retrofit and the entire shift bracket with switch must be purchased.

So it is either one or the other.

Like I said if you don't want to spend the money on a new shift bracket the EBAY has some old style switches. but they cost around $50 to $75.

The new bracket and switch is at least twice that price, maybe 4 times as much I forget.
 
Thanks for the info. I went through the procedure and took the boat for a test ride and and it is shifting much better. Also where/ how can I download a detailed wiring diagram for the 260 HP 1986 350 chevy engine that is in the boat
 
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