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2012 BF115 code 14 constant beeping stalling when starting please help

R

Runwme

New member
I have a low hour 2012 bf115 with a frustrating problem


From cold I hit key to start, it fires up and cuts right back off immediately.

If I advance throttle in neutral, it will start up and idle/run fine but beeps

checking codes, I get 1 long and 4 short flashes.

I tried a known good iac valve and still does the same issue.

any suggestions on what to try?

thanks in advance
 
Hi,

Where did you source the IAC valve you used for testing? Just curious.

I don't work on these so keep that in mind but the code 14 description lists connector and wiring issues before mentioning the valve. That's where I would be looking.

Make sure connector sockets and pins are clean and have a good fit with each other. Vibration causes problems in sockets and can result in poor pin/socket fit or even "push back" in their cavities. Look carefully at them and use contact cleaner. This goes for not only the valve connector but the ECM connector too.

Check the harness for any signs of chafe or rub through especially where it bends or comes in contact with protrusions such as bolt heads or ends. Check to see if any of the harness hold downs or fairings have caused any damage to the insulation.

You could also try "wiggle testing" the harness while the engine is running to see if you can make it change the beeping.

Many times finding a harness fault involves load testing each wire with the valve and the computer unplugged using jumper wires and a 12 volt headlamp. Plenty of youtube video on doing that.

Hope you solve the mystery.

Good luck.
 
You probably thought of this already but forgot to say simply unplugging both ends of the harness at valve and at ECM and then checking for continuity of the (3?) wires might reveal an open circuit.

Good luck.
 
I pulled a known good iac off my bf135 engine to try

I bought the pdf manual and jumping the gr/w and black on b connector at ecu showed 12.6 ohms resistance as it should going through harness and checking iac
More symptoms
On cold start, it will fire up and immediately shut off several times
I can advance throttle in neutral and start, then it starts as it should
After it has warmed a couple mins, then I can cut off and restart as it should.
After warmed up, 1/2 time it will beep with code 14 and other half the time it will fire up normal with no issue and and no beeping.


Im doing the testing with cover on boat.
i noticed that when turn key on, both oil and temp tights come on, beep beep then go off. After starting, the temperature light stays very dimly lit. I wouldn't have noticed it other than it was dark under cover.
 
Well, like I said, I've never worked on one of these so, hopefully, someone else will chime in and share some knowledge.

But I am confused. You say the IAC wiring is supposed to have 12.6 Ohms? Or is that resistance value for the idle valve motor?

I also thought that Honda green oil lights should only come on when the engine is running and OP is above minimum. Am I wrong about that on this outboard?

The temperature warning light staying on dimly might be a great clue as to what's going on so it's a good thing you noticed it.

Because of that, I think that I would be checking the main electrical connections and especially the grounds. I say that because, in
my automotive background, often I find that circuits that aren't well grounded will often find ground through another path. And, when that path is through a lamp circuit, it will cause the lamp to glow dimly just as you describe. Just a guess but it's all I've got.

Good luck.
 
F13D50CA-ADE2-43BF-9F83-A1881FC447EE.jpg
10-13 is for the wiring and valve
Yeah, Im wondering if that could be a clue the temperature light being dim
It struggles on cold start, possibly something going on with that as well ?
 
Well, that test seems like it checks good for sure. Did you try it using the 135 IAC for a comparison?

What about my green oil light question? Has it always come on with key on, engine off?

I still think checking the main electrical connections....battery clamps...1-2-both switch...starter positive...engine main ground lug....main relay....and any others you can think of is a good START.
Physically remove and clean clamp or bolt on/stud-nut connections and unplug and contact clean connector sockets and pins.

It's surprising how many problems are caused by loose or dirty connections. I have seen many times when unplugging and reconnecting stuff during troubleshooting makes the problem go away. And, on marine electrical I think corrosion is probably 2 or 3 times worse than on cars.

Hope you find it.
 
Hello, I have the same exact problem here. I will check the wiring next, and I'm curious about the overheat issue. I have taken my boat to the dealership last yr and they replaced my ignition key switch, over $800 bucks later. The problem did seem to go away for a few trips however its back again and worse. I have 2019 twin Bf150s with about 90 hrs on them. I have swapped the IACVs any the problem only stays to the 1 engine. The other engine works great with no problem.

I did get it to start with no codes once and it ran just fine like nothing ever happened. In the past, at the boat dock I usually stop and start the engine a few times until it starts with no engine lights. And after that the engine runs like nothing ever happened. Another thing to know is it starts giving the engine alarm as soon as you are turning the motor over and before it fires up. Then of course after its fired up the alarm will still keep beeping until its turned off. So something on the ECU is saying something is wrong right off the bat.
I can't tell because the engine will stall right after startup and sometimes not fire up. I was thinking of chasing starting problems like bad compression/valves. I dont see how though this early.
Here is my 1st thread. http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...1-long-flash-and-4-short-flashes-then-repeats.
 
Try swapping the batteries around and see what happens. Clean the connections while you have the access.

Good luck.
 
Update: I was able to get it working again so far on the 6th startup and no engine light. I dont know which one helped but I did the following. I pushed the wires in on the connector, shifted the connecting wire harness around, and then pushed all wires in on the main harness plug. So definitely an shorting issue. Thanks all!
 
Happy you got it going but not knowing what caused it could mean it will happen again......probably at a bad time for you.

Good luck.
 
Yeah, fixed for now. You probably knocked off some offending corrosion during your search.....just don't take any hard left turns in front of an oncoming freighters bow ;>)
 
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