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2006 BF115A VST float valve

Gary1

Member
Hi I'm new but have used the forum in the past to get past other problems with outboards I've previously owned. This is great one for DYI folks like myself.

i bought this engine new and it's a great engine. However my illnesses kept me from touching it for several years. It set up all this time old fuel and all. I'm now able to return to enjoying it thank god.

Just one question for now. I've removed the VST to clean it out and I've discovered what appears to be a problem. The fuel port pipe that leads to the float/valve assembly may be clogged. I decided to remove it the float valve for cleaning but the needle appears to be embedded in some sort of green hard guide that is stuck hence the valve and float want come loose. What is this guide and how do you remove the float/valve? I've removed the 2 screws shown on page 426 section 5-6 of the shop manual. Would anyone familiar with this please help.

Thanks
 
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FYI-I have drained fuel tank, Cleaned fuel lines, and plan to clean injectors after VST reassemble and install.

Hi I'm new but have used the forum in the past to get past other problems with outboards I've previously owned. This is great one for DYI folks like myself.

i bought this engine new and it's a great engine. However my illnesses kept me from touching it for several years. It set up all this time old fuel and all. I'm now able to return to enjoying it thank god.

Just one question for now. I've removed the VST to clean it out and I've discovered what appears to be a problem. The fuel port pipe that leads to the float/valve assembly may be clogged. I decided to remove it the float valve for cleaning but the needle appears to be embedded in some sort of green hard guide that is stuck hence the valve and float want come loose. What is this guide and how do you remove the float/valve? I've removed the 2 screws shown on page 426 section 5-6 of the shop manual. Would anyone familiar with this please help.

Thanks
 
It sounds like the float valve is frozen in the seat due to the old dried up fuel. I usually put it in an ultrasonic cleaner to break them loose. Most likely, you do not have one in your back pocket, so soaking that portion of the vapor separator in something like Seafoam for a good length of time (maybe a couple of days or more) might get them separated.

You may also have a problem with a frozen high pressure pump. If you are not sure about it, you can put 12v directly to it, through the two pin connector at the end of the pigtail coming out of the vapor separator.

If the vapor separator and pump are both toast, consider the following.

Pump only retails for $230
Vapor separator cover only retails for $155. That does not include cost of new float valve.
Complete vapor separator with pump etc retails for $1194.

If you order the fuel vapor update kit,06167-ZW5-305, that was used several years ago to update the fuel system for the old high pressure pump, it retails for $383. It includes a complete new vapor separator with fuel pump etc, new hoses, new fuel rail and associated hoses. You will end of with parts that you do not need.

I know, it sounds too good to be true. For the price of a vapor separator cover and pump, you can get the whole thing and just install the vapor separator and you are done. Keep in mind, if you change just the fuel pump, there are some additional gaskets, screens etc that you will need to buy.

If you are in the USA, Honda still has a lot of these in stock.

Hope that gives you some options.

Mike
 
Thank You for your response Mike I appreciate it. I'll try the sea form soak and see what happens. I've dealt with carbs fuel floats before but never seen a guide that looks like this before. At first glance I thought it was made from some sorta soft ssponge but that didn't make any sense. This part must be glued in place and part of the top lid I guess right? The valve is definitely stuck in it and want budge with gentle movement.

By by the way Can I order the parts you described here using the serial number of my engine to ensure the correct parts are ordered? A link with that info how to do that would be great if so. Currently I'm using an online shop manual from www.feuer-krem...that covers bf115a and 130. Unfortunately I can't figure out part numbers for components using that website so I have go through a dealer which is 2 hours from me. Is there away around that from this website?

Finally if I can't unstick the needle valve I'll probably be ordering some or all of the parts you described. However I'm retired and got plenty of time to tinker so I'm sure I'll keep messing with it until I'm completely frustrated and fed up. Once again Thanks for your help!

Gary

It sounds like the float valve is frozen in the seat due to the old dried up fuel. I usually put it in an ultrasonic cleaner to break them loose. Most likely, you do not have one in your back pocket, so soaking that portion of the vapor separator in something like Seafoam for a good length of time (maybe a couple of days or more) might get them separated.

You may also have a problem with a frozen high pressure pump. If you are not sure about it, you can put 12v directly to it, through the two pin connector at the end of the pigtail coming out of the vapor separator.

If the vapor separator and pump are both toast, consider the following.

Pump only retails for $230
Vapor separator cover only retails for $155. That does not include cost of new float valve.
Complete vapor separator with pump etc retails for $1194.

If you order the fuel vapor update kit,06167-ZW5-305, that was used several years ago to update the fuel system for the old high pressure pump, it retails for $383. It includes a complete new vapor separator with fuel pump etc, new hoses, new fuel rail and associated hoses. You will end of with parts that you do not need.

I know, it sounds too good to be true. For the price of a vapor separator cover and pump, you can get the whole thing and just install the vapor separator and you are done. Keep in mind, if you change just the fuel pump, there are some additional gaskets, screens etc that you will need to buy.

If you are in the USA, Honda still has a lot of these in stock.

Hope that gives you some options.

Mike
 
I will have to make this short. We have had 4 ft of water in the business, due to the river flooding...and today we are still cleaning up as we move things back in.

If your vapor separator is the updated vapor separator, then use the parts diagrams for a BF115A6 model. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF115A6 LA/VAPOR SEPARATOR/parts.html

If your vapor separator is not like the one in the link, then use your serial number.

In fact, post your serial number and I will check it to see what model it really is. One some sites, they only go by year and model. Other than the fuel system, there were few, if any, major changes in design over its life.

Mike
 
Dang man that sucks I feel for you. Hope y'all was prepared and got you tools/equipment to high ground before it rose that high. Good Luck.

My VST is similar but I see deferences in the screws for the float. Mine has two screws on the bottom. Here's the serial number of my engine:

2006 BF115A (per owners manual)
SN-BZBD 1700123

Just whenever you get a chance. No worries on my part. Last question, is the blue/yellow wire on the pump the 12v lead. The other is black (ground I assume). Want to make sure I apply the hot to the pump on correct lead before I confirm it runs or not. Is ok to run it dry for a. Pulled seconds?

Thanks & good luck dealing with aftermath. If I weren't in middle Tn I'd head over and give you Some help. ...
 
The owner's manual is correct. As you can see, the motor started its life in Idaho.

The model is BF115A6LA.

MODEL-SERIAL NUMBER (PIN).......................: BZBD - 1700123 INVOICED DEALER.................................: 314015 INVOICE DATE....................................: 11/22/2005 DATE OF PURCHASE................................: 04/30/2007 SELLING DEALER..................................: 310940 ENGINE NUMBER...................................: 1100152 MODEL ID .......................................: BF115A6LA WARRANTY TERM...................................: NON-COMMERCIAL DISTRIBUTORS LIMITED WARRANTY END DATE..........: 04/29/2010 DISTRIBUTORS LIMITED WARRANTY EXTENSION END DATE: DISTRIBUTORS LIMITED WARRANTY CANCEL DATE.......: REASON: EMISSIONS WARRANTY END DATE*....................: 04/29/2011 EMISSIONS WARRANTY EXTENSION END DATE*..........: *2001-2009 OUTBOARD ENGINES ARE WARRANTED FOR 4 YEARS OR 250 HOURS, 2010 AND LATER OUTBOARD ENGINES ARE WARRANTED FOR 5 YEARS OR 250 HOURS OF OPERATION, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST, OR THE LENGTH OF THE DISTRIBUTOR'S LIMITED WARRANTY, WHICHEVER IS GREATER. CURRENT OWNER'S NAME..: LARRY BRANEN CURRENT OWNER'S ADDR..: 701 E FRONT ST SUITE 702, COEUR D'ALENE, ID 83814


The parts picture does show only one screw, but the quantity shows 2.

If your vapor separator has a paper high pressure filter in the right end of the vst, #38, then the parts diagram should be correct.

Yes, the blue/yellow wire is the positive side. If the motor does not run, but you get a spark, switch the polarities, and see if you can get it to run backwards. Sometimes that will break it loose. Running it for a short time dry is ok, for testing. If you do not get a spark, you could measure the resistance between the two wires. If you did not get a spark, the resistance will probably indicate infinity (an open circuit).

As for the flood, we got everything out or put up high in time, except for one of our semi's that we couldn't get the brakes released. There was already a foot of water around it and more than a foot on the road to get out and the water was still coming up. So we got out! Everything on the semi's floor and about a foot or so up was trashed. The yard was a mess with debris and mud and the inside was full of mud. Fortunately, we have a lot of good friends and customers, who helped us not only pack up, but also to clean up and move back in. We were able to get in on Wednesday to assess the situation.

Thursday, was powerwash time, fortunately it did not get to our main breaker panel and our light and heating circuits were up high. Finished the building and some of the outside concrete that day. Then ran all the fans and heat all night.

Friday, finished cleaning electrical outlets near the floor and fixed a few telephone connections, while our friends (landscapers) cleaned up the yard and other various debris filling a huge dumpster. While more fans and heat continued to dry up everything. Fortunately, the building is made of cedar, inside and out. No dry wall. It used to be a nursery. We still have the greenhouse.
Today, we cleared out the fans and unloaded two huge liftgate trucks and one trailer. All our helpers then jumped in and cleaned mud off of about 75 or so used props that we did not move, but went underwater. Waiting of gravel before we get the semi back with all our parts and additional files etc....so many of our shelves are still empty. Also brought some boats back.
I got the internet, credit card machine, and cash register going.
Finishing up with computers tomorrow and window cleanup as well as a few more boats.

We are in a lot better shape than some of our neighbors, who did have dry wall, etc and were not fully prepared.

Theoretically, we should be back in business, once our other semi (with all our parts) and goose neck flat bed made it back. Hopefully, that should be in a few days, once we get the resting spots prepared.

Thanks for your concern and thanks for letting me vent.

Hopefully, your project will be less stressful.

Mike
.
 
Well it's obvious you're a good dude as evidence from all the help you've received and I couldn't count the number of times I've seen you help out all the folks on this forum needing some sound and "free" advise. Your a blessing to a lot of folks on here. Im glad y'all are getting things all squared away. I just love it whenever folks gladly help out their friends and neighbors. That's what ife is all about as we travel through it at the mercy of God just as intended. Thanks for your reply again and I'm so glad to hear everything's gonna be alright! I grew up in a flood prone river area so I know exactly what you all are dealing with.

Take Care and Thanks for the update Mike,

Gary
 
Thanks guys.

Got computers up and running today. We have gravel coming for the yard and when our semi with the parts and files come back this week, we will probably be up and running...even though there is a lot of cleanup in a couple of the outbuildings yet.

In any case, we have it much better than those who had their homes flooded. At least after a hard days work of clean up, we can go home, shower, clean our clothes and sleep in a nice dry place.

Gary1....how is the soaking going? Any luck yet?

Mike
 
Hi Mike,

i sure hope folks in that area (as well as yourself) had flood insurance. If not it's gonna a be long time getting their life's back in order. I've seen areas before where those every 100 year floods devistate folks lives. If fact one of the old towns near where I grew up in NE Ar is going threw the same thing right now from the floods last week. The whole town had 4 foot of water standing in its buildings and homes. Like I said I wish I was close by to pitch in.

Any how, the float valve is still stuck in lid so I'm gonna have to trash mine and buy a new lid and float assy. The good news is the pump runs fine. However I'm apprehensive of Pulling out the pump to give it a good bath. I did remove the four screws but the pump seems to be lodged and starts separating when I started lifting it out. I thought the whole assembly just lifted out. I lifted it to the point of being able to see the internal motor wires but it was obvious it was gonna leave parts in the Bowl so I stopped. I just stuck it back together and filled the housing with carb cleaner at the bottom ports to at least give it a rense. Besides, I didn't see any replaceable screen on the bottom of the pump unless it's the thing shown but not identified on the drawing that obviously wraps around the motor body. I'm guessing that is what this part is?

Anyway I'm about to order the lid/float but could be easily lconvinced to order the upgrade kit instead if it also includes the lid, tank, float/valve as well as the other parts you described. I have no idea what the lifespan of these pumps are but this one doesn't have that many hours on it. Finally the upgrade kit you mention earlier is correct for my serial number engine right? Just want to be sure My interpretation is correct.

Thanks,
Gary
 
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Just to be clear....the vapor separator upgrade kit was used on older 115's to bring the fuel system up to the system that you have. So, if you order it, you will have parts that you will not need to use. Here is a link to the part and a picture of what you get for $334.95. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-06167-ZW5-305.html

The fuel pump has a screen below it, however, it is practically impossible to remove the pump to clean it without destroying it. So, if you choose to leave that alone, I would recommend buying at least the following parts...

#1 Float valve $28.52
#4 Cover $112.12
#16 Cover o ring $10.59
#19 Filter o ring $7.65
#38 High Press Filter $28.98

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF115A6 LA/VAPOR SEPARATOR/parts.html

My calculator says they total to $183.86

That leaves a difference of $151.09 more to get the fuel pump, screen and everything else.

I do not know where you will be using this motor, but if it were me or my customer, I would recommend the extra $151.09....especially if they intended to use the boat on the ocean, great lakes or very large lakes (where you need to be sure to get back when a storm is on its way) or on a river with any current .

If it is going to be used on smaller lakes where you can see the shore all the time, money is an issue, or you are a risk taker...save the money.

Mike
 
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Well this is a no brainer for me so I'll order it tomorrow using the link you provided. The motor is on a 25 ft pontoon used for recreation and fishing. I really appreciate all your help and saving me a lot of bucks. Hope y'all are back full speed ahead soon!

Gary
 
Another question, what is the voltage level to operate the fuel injectors? 12 vdc ok? I'm going to remove them and clean them...By the way Mike I received the upgrade kit today. Haven't opened the box yet, Hope things are proceeding well for you.

Gary
 
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Thanks. Maybe the lord will bless you with a killer season this year!!

Finally got around to installing the new VST. Had been putting it off to repair and service my old diesel tractors and other equipment required to take care of my 40 acre farm. Anyhow, I reassembled the fuel system, primed it with fuel and reinstalled new battery. The engine cranked right up and idled perfectly....Hondadude your a champ. I sure hope everything has finally gotten back to normal for you! Thanks a bunch.
 
Glad you had success. You can tell you are used to hard never ending work....taking care of a 40 acre farm. How did you even find the time to work on the 115?

Pleasant cruising.

By the way, we were never "normal" in the first place, but I guess we are as close as we are going to be.

mike
 
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