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2006 4.3 V6 190 HP engine will not start in spring

T

Tom K

New member
I have my engine winterized by an authorize Mercruiser dealer each year. In the spring when I try to start it, some years it starts up and some years it doesn't. When I take it to dealer, they get it started and say that the problem is that the gas has evaporated out of the carburetor and the 5 seconds the electronic gas pump runs is not enough time to get enough gas to carburetor. What is sounds like they do is somehow manually get gas to carburetor to get it started. Is there some way I can do this myself so I don't have to pay the costs for service each year to get it stated?
 
Yeah: pull the flame arrestor and dribble a few tablespoons full of gas into the carb. Replace the flame arrester and crank her up, Repeat as necessary.

Jeff
 
What they do is, manually activate the electric fuel pump to fill the carb.

How they most likely do it is,

They TEMPORARILY disconnect the wires at the old pressure SWITCH and jump them together. This allows the pump to work when key is in the RUN position without oil pressure.

The Oil pressure switch typically is at the oil filter location. It may be teed off the mount for the oil filter.

It will have a PURPLE wire connected to one side and a PURPLE with YELLOW STRIPE wire connected to the other side.


If those are removed and jumped together, when the key is in the run position the pump will run.

IF YOU DO THIS, ONCE ENGINE STARTS. SHUT ENGINE OFF AND YOU MUST............

RECONNECT WIRES/CONNECTORS BACK TO OIL PRESSURE SWITCH.
 
I don't know if this actually does anything other than make me feel better. On all my engines that sit like boat and muscle car I pull the plugs, disable the ignition or ground the coil wire, and turn the engine over until I see oil pressure build on the gauge. Fuel pump get power at the starter during cranking so when I hook ignition back up it fires right up.
 
Dieter said:
I don't know if this actually does anything other than make me feel better. On all my engines that sit like boat and muscle car I pull the plugs, disable the ignition or ground the coil wire, and turn the engine over until I see oil pressure build on the gauge. Fuel pump get power at the starter during cranking so when I hook ignition back up it fires right up.
Click to expand...

When I used to rig new boats with the V6 electric fuel pump, Based on a dry system, Add gas to tank, pull wires of oil pressure switch, jump together, turn key on, wait for tone change and move throttle so assure gas squirts. Remove jumper, reconnect, Fire engine off.

No time to pull plugs and ground coil and crank..........quick and easy.
 
My way is far simpler.

When I was a kid, and rarely had enough gas money, my cars ran on fumes and ran out of gas regularly. We got 'em going again by dribbling a bit of fuel down the carb--everyone did it that way since we had mechanical fuel pumps.

Jeff

PS: My old Bayliner (e-pump) used to 'resist' starting after sitting a while, so I rigged up a momentary switch and circuit to run the fuel pump. To wit: Hold the button down long enough to fill the carb, then crank her up. This takes a bit of work to wire up, but it's a nice solution.
 
fastjeff said:
My way is far simpler.

When I was a kid, and rarely had enough gas money, my cars ran on fumes and ran out of gas regularly. We got 'em going again by dribbling a bit of fuel down the carb--everyone did it that way since we had mechanical fuel pumps.

Jeff

PS: My old Bayliner (e-pump) used to 'resist' starting after sitting a while, so I rigged up a momentary switch and circuit to run the fuel pump. To wit: Hold the button down long enough to fill the carb, then crank her up. This takes a bit of work to wire up, but it's a nice solution.
Click to expand...

The problem telling someone to pour raw gas down the carb is they may miss and spill it all over the engine, Also they may use more than what you would use based on your long history of running out of gas.

The momentary switch is a good idea but may not be coast guard approved..............

The method I described is the method we used while actually working at/in a Marine business. It is safe for initial start up or troubleshooting fuel related issues (only) but it does not require any removal of the flame arrestor, spark plugs or anything else other than two plug connectors and the installation of a paper clip between the two.

Anyway.............suggesting pouring raw fuel into an engine to a possibly (most likely) non mechanically inclined individual is not safe.

The real question is, is the fuel pump wired to the starter (terminal R to purple with yellow stripe) so the pump runs when cranking............Not all are. If it isn't then that should be remedied. That is the correct 'fix".
 
Thanks for the suggestions. The way I understand it based on discussions with the mechanic at the Marine Dealer, the fuel pump will run for 5 seconds when you attempt to start it, but will stop after that if no oil pressure. I am still in Florida for the winter, but when I get back to Wisconsin in a few weeks, I will give it a try. I think I will see if I can locate the oil pressure switch and jumper it to get it started.
 
fastjeff said:
PS: My old Bayliner (e-pump) used to 'resist' starting after sitting a while, so I rigged up a momentary switch and circuit to run the fuel pump. To wit: Hold the button down long enough to fill the carb, then crank her up. This takes a bit of work to wire up, but it's a nice solution.
Click to expand...

Jeff, I have suggested this many times for those with carbureted engines and electric fuel pumps.
Not only will it help after the engine has been sitting, if routinely used, it will extend the life of our starter motors and cranking battery over the next few seasons.


The momentary switch is a good idea but may not be coast guard approved..............
Click to expand...

As long as the switch is "momentary", the USCG should not have an issue with it.



.
 
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RicardoMarine said:
Jeff, I have suggested this many times for those with carbureted engines and electric fuel pumps.
Not only will it help after the engine has been sitting, if routinely used, it will extend the life of our starter motors and cranking battery over the next few seasons.




As long as the switch is "momentary", the USCG should not have an issue with it.



.
Click to expand...

Wrong again moron........PCR YOU has NO product specific knowledge therefor you are wrong AGAIN!.

A backyard rig suggested to someone who does not do their own work, as suggested by the reference to the "Mercruiser dealer".....................LIKE PCR does not belong here!
 
The real question is, is the fuel pump wired to the starter (terminal R to purple with yellow stripe) so the pump runs when cranking............Not all are. If it isn't then that should be remedied. That is the correct 'fix".


If it is wired this way, how does the pump get power once engine is started?
 
Tom, I apologize for Jack's rude behavior.


Tom K said:
The real question is, is the fuel pump wired to the starter (terminal R to purple with yellow stripe) so the pump runs when cranking............Not all are. If it isn't then that should be remedied. That is the correct 'fix".

Tom, the fuel pump is wired in such a way that it will receive power during cranking. And yes, it does so via the S circuit and it's interface with the fuel pump's power circuit.

The problem is.... it will require several seconds (or more) of cranking in order to push enough fuel up to the carburetor. This will often require several starting attempts.

If you install a momentary switch, you would operate the momentary switch for several seconds (or more) prior to even attempting starter motor operation.

Less starter motor operation per start-up = extended starter motor and battery longevity.



If it is wired this way, how does the pump get power once engine is started?
The N/O (normally open) low oil pressure switch closes contacts once the engine sees oil pressure.
With the LOPS contacts closed, the fuel pump receives power and will continue to operate until oil pressure drops below the prescribed value.
This is a USCG requirement, regardless of if being a Merc, Volvo Penta, Indmar, PCM, Crusader, Chriscraft, etc.
Click to expand...
 
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Tom K said:
The real question is, is the fuel pump wired to the starter (terminal R to purple with yellow stripe) so the pump runs when cranking............Not all are. If it isn't then that should be remedied. That is the correct 'fix".


If it is wired this way, how does the pump get power once engine is started?
Click to expand...

pump gets power off the starter during cranking, 20 seconds of cranking usually fill my carb in the spring.

when the ignition is on, power is supplied via the ignition circuit. This gets 12 v from the key in run position and send power to the + side of coil and to the fuel pump. The leg tat goes to fuel pump goes through an oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch closes only after there is like 4 psi of oil pressure. This is a required safety feature to prevent the fuel pump from running if the engine stalls or is not running yet the key is left in run position. The oil pressure switch is a common fail point, can be jummpered around as suggested to prime or bypass pressure switch if it fails.
 

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...Just so long as that push button switch is in fact a momentary one and NOT located in the engine compartment or any place that the CG might consider "below decks" ( then that switch needs to be "explosion proof") it's legal. My preferred solution is to use my boat more often :)
 
I am new to this forum and I want to thank everyone for the information and response. I think I will be now able to get it started without having to take it back and pay a large service charge. I have just had this problem the last few years. I relocated a few years ago and had to find a new place to winterize my boat. The previous place I used as part of their winterizing service included a spring service where I would bring the boat back to them, drop it off, go hang out for a couple of hours and they start it and make sure everything was good. Guess I didn't realize the value of the service. This was small business in northern Wisconsin. Now I am in the big city of Milwaukee, things are not the same.
 
Tom K said:
Thanks for the suggestions. The way I understand it based on discussions with the mechanic at the Marine Dealer, the fuel pump will run for 5 seconds when you attempt to start it, but will stop after that if no oil pressure. I am still in Florida for the winter, but when I get back to Wisconsin in a few weeks, I will give it a try. I think I will see if I can locate the oil pressure switch and jumper it to get it started.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,..... There's no 5 second prime circuit Tom,..... It's powered by crankin' on the starter, 'n then through the ignition as explained above,.....

Good luck in yer new digs in the big city,...... ;)
 
The real issue is "NONE OF THE ABOVE"

Adding something to your engine electrical that controls the fuel pump is a bad idea.......
Pouring fuel or using starting fluid is plausible if you have a mechanical fuel lift pump.

The electric fuel pump is a pusher pump, when it pushed fuel it pulls fuel........ It will not prime if dry.... Any good Mercruiser dealer or Mechanic will hook a remote fuel tank to your engine and run it on a fuel mix for winter lay up.... They will then change your fuel water sep filter..... which will be dry or only half filled... If this is the case, the electric fuel pump can run until the battery dies and will never prime....

You can pull the fuel filter and fill it with fuel, that is one way to get it to prime, or you can pull the fuel line from the carb and hook you oil extractor to it, that will definitely prime it.
 
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RicardoMarine said:
Tom, the fuel pump is wired in such a way that it will receive power during cranking. And yes, it does so via the S circuit and it's interface with the fuel pump's power circuit.

The problem is.... it will require several seconds (or more) of cranking in order to push enough fuel up to the carburetor. This will often require several starting attempts.

If you install a momentary switch, you would operate the momentary switch for several seconds (or more) prior to even attempting starter motor operation.

Less starter motor operation per start-up = extended starter motor and battery longevity.
Click to expand...


PCR Moron, you are wrong again...............WTF get a grip

The S terminal on the starter solenoid is the Crank terminal (yellow with red stripe wire) ONLY.
The OTHER terminal (R) on the Starter solenoid is the one used to power the fuel pump when cranking. Same as the old point ignition when used (I believe it was also called I terminal on some solenoids)







Also We never used a remote tank on dry or spring start up, We also filled the water separator with fuel when new or at spring start up after replacement as part of the spring tune up (as a certified repair shop would do).
 
I thought I should give you an update. The engine started just fine this spring, maybe it knew I had a solution to the problem. It starts fine about 50% of the time in the spring. Maybe just my lucky year. Again, thanks for the replies to my problelm.
 
Glad to hear that, and I apologize for some of the hysteric comments made by some on this site.

Jeff

PS: If you watch 'Roadkill' on Motor Trend TV, you'd see them use inflammable brake cleaner to get long dead motors going. A shot into the open carb and away they go! Neat solution.
 
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