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2005 OptiMax 115 DFI 1.5L

P

Pixnad

New member
Hello,

First off I'm trying to find the Schrader test port fitting size on this outboard. There are two test ports on the fuel rail, one for fuel pressure and one for air pressure. I just need the cap fitting size. Doing some pressure tests because my engine started running rough 2 weeks ago. I ordered the current parts and service manuals. Pulled the plugs and cleaned them to start with. They had the usual black buildup I've seems on previous changes and ordered new plugs. I ran it for an hour or two, just trolling after cleaning the plugs. The next weekend I went to change the plugs. The old plugs, which I just cleaned, were cover with the black buildup. I replaced the plugs, removed the alternator belt, checked the air compressor (read horror stories about these) and replaced the belt. The air compressor seemed fine, no wobble and sounded fine when turning by hand. So now I'm at the point I need to some pressure tests. I'm looking for a good forum. I've seen some very recent posts so that's a good sign. Hope I can get some help and will share any experiences I have concerning this engine.
 
Sounds like thermostat stuck open running cool what is engine temp???
Schrader valve same size as car tire
If fuel or air psi is low will leave u with a no start condition 80psi air 90 psi fuel and always have to be 10psi difference which is controlled by the tracker valve
What is engine cyl compression that could foul plugs too
Compression should be around 100-120 and no more than 20% difference between cyl.
 
Opti,

I had to reread my post to determine how you came up with the temperture issue. I have been getting one beep about once an hour since I do alot of trolling (under 1K rpm). It does state in the manuel that this might be a termostat issue. Didn't think this would cause the rough running problem since that started well after the beeps were occuring, but you just never know. Don't know how to check engine temp yet. The manuel describes using a temp. test wax. Seems like there should be an easier way, maybe not. I'm also changing the the prime ball, the original seems mushy and some other general maintenanace stuff. Thanks for the input.
 
Use a laser thermal temp. gun for instant temp. readings. The laser points to where the thermal guage is reading.
 
overcool fault. i forget what temp it comes on at. does not leave u stuck or affect engine drive ability except little richer fuel mixture and possible fouled plugs
 
Did alot of testing and everything is within the specs the service manual states. I read a few other posting concerning intermintent engine running issues and the use of Seafoam was brough up, so I gave that a try too. I diluted the mixture of 1/3 of a can to one liter of gas. No problems starting and running. Ran it for a while and waited and ran it again. Each time a little smoke would be exhausted, described as carbon being burned of according to the instructions. Re placed the prime ball and oil filter just because. I noticed no oil was moving thought the tubes so I ran it through the start up mode by turning the key to the on position and pushing the throttle forward 3 times. This started the oil pump. Pumped about 8 times I would guess. When I pulled the plugs for the compression test the plugs looked nice and clean, so I guess the seafoam stuff may have worked. Took it out for a test run. Ran the best its run in awhile. I just trolled around for about an hour. Still got the single beep. But hen it started to beep four times and also noticed my volt meter was only just below 13 volts. This happened one before a few years ago. Ended up being the alternator fuse. No place in the manual have I found this to give 4 beeps. Anyway went back in and got the meter out to check the fuse. The fuse check out ok, then thought possibly the alternator went bad, what next. Well it ended up the ground wire broke off. Didn't have the right size terminal, so this weekend I'll repair that. I'll purchase a temp gun. I've looked on sites, quite a few out there from $20 to $200 dollars. I'l probably settle for a round $30 or so. Thanks again for your input.
 
four beeps low oil fault
take it to a mecrury dealer and put it on the cds diagnostics computer and figure out the faults
check alternator output at the terminal on alternator can take it in to a napa and they can test it also
alternator should have 3 wire main power out wire BIG RED two smaller wires on 12v ignition and a second one for voltage refrence 12V as well jus a start of diagnostics if alternator is ok
 
After repairing my alterator ground wire my voltage meter went to 14 at idle and 17 volts once I upped the rpms. Ran it around for a couple of hours and never had the 4 beeps. I'm still getting the one beep which does refer to low temp, below 1000 rmps. It idles at around 850 rmps and that is what I troll at. It's purring now and just need to address the termostat issue, which the manual states is what the one beep is indicating. Like I stated above this same thing happened a few years back. I even took it to the dealer. They said it was water in the seperator and a week battery. I brought it home ran it four about 45 minutes and 4 beeps again. I dug into it ferther and found the blown alernator fuse and never heard 4 beeps until the ground wire broke. Why 4 beeps on a low voltage situation, don't know. Maybe the computer gets confused do to low voltage...? Now I need to order a termal lazer gun and check the temp for the one beep. That may be a couple weeks. My money tree needs to grow more leaves.
 
It idles at around 850 rmps and that is what I troll at.
Click to expand...
Mine idles at 625-650 in the water...tach is new. If you are short on funds just buy a merc. T'stat...the one beep is your evidence it isn't working.
 
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Replace thermostat if u have overcool fault
17 volts is way to high for charging sounds like bad regulator in your alternator
I've seen a few of those water in fuel sensor go out causing single beep ethanol eats up insulation to wire behind sensor and shorts them out saying there is water in fuel so if no water in fuel may be bad sensor should be able to do a visual inspection look for some small gel looking balls or continuity check on just sensor
 
I think any standard valve stem cap will work. I am working on a 115 optimax at work. It was running really rough. I did all air and fuel pressure tests. Finally I took a look at the reeds and one was broke. Maybe something for you to look at.
 
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