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2001 60 hp timer base

T

TP.

New member
Just had to replace my timer base for the second time, 2001 mtr bought new and four years ago had one go bad, now again. This time I got a CDI part usually I stick with oem but 2x bad I try something new. Is their something I may be over looking that would cause a timer base to go bad?
 
Re: 60 hp timer base

Only thing I can think of is somehow having battery voltage (however small a voltage) being applied to one of the leads. A very remote possibility I know but easy to check with the key on.
 
Re: 60 hp timer base

How would you check that? My manuel's electrical drawing is not very good. You have raised my concern because ever since I have owned the boat the dead man clip will not work, when you pull it off the switch the mtr keeps running-I replaced the key switch last year because of trouble with the primer hoping the lanyard issue would also be resolved. With the mtr in the off position it should be closed correct.
 
Re: 60 hp timer base

just so you know CDI is now making some OEM items for BRP, I use them all the time. Very good tech support.
 
Re: 60 hp timer base

Unplug the wiring harness connectors that lead to the timer base. Connect a volt meter or ammeter lead to each pin/socket (one at a time) of the wiring harness connector, with the other meter lead connected to a powerhead ground. Have the meter set to its lowest DC reading value. Have the key turned to the ON position (not running).

The above has nothing to do with the kill switch. The kill switch should be wired as follows.

Have a wire from the kill switch (preferably black/yellow if possible) connected to the same terminal "M" on the ignition switch that a black/yellow wire is already attached. Connect the other wire of the kill switch to ground. That's it. Now, when the lanyard is disconnected from the kill switch, the button pops out completing the kill circuit and the engine stops running. If the engine continues to run, the kill switch is faulty.
 
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