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2000 Ocean Pro 90hp Primer Not Working?

M

magnet

New member
The motor is a mod J90VLSIF. First, I'm not familiar with the primer system on this motor. All the other motors I've owned had butterfly valves that audibly clicked shut when the choke was activated, so you could hear/see that it was working. That does not appear to be the case with this primer system (that apparently only activates when the motor is cranking or running). The motor is very slow starting and here is some relevant data:



1. The primer bulb will not get hard, although you can hear gas making it to at least one carburetor. I've replaced the bulb to no avail.
2. The motor has a Sierra 18-7846 fuel separator, which I've just replaced with a new filter.
3. When the motor is warm and running, pushing in the key (to activate the primer system) has no effect. If the primer system was working properly, I would expect a drop in rpm, and eventually flooding out.


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Magnet
 
Check fuel pump output pressure to carbs as well. The primer system has a solenoid that pushes fuel into a port on the carb, if pressure is low, no additional fuel gets delivered.
Another issue is the 'service valve' and housing crack and allow fuel to dump into the cowling, or in some cases just blocks off fuel from entering the solenoid housing.

Voltage check is the faster, and obvious first step. Second check visually for cracks or leaking at the solenoid, then pressure check.
 
Temporarily clamp the fuel line shut between the fuel primer bulb and the engine. Does the fuel primer bulb get hard now? If so, fuel is either flowing through one or more carburetors, the VRO is leaking fuel through a diaphragm into the crankcase via the pulse line, or you have the primer solenoid's red valve turned in the wrong direction (it should be facing the other end of the black solenoid to be in the automatic, key start position).

If the bulb still doesn't get hard, hold the bulb in a vertical position with the outlet facing up so as to be sure that the bulb valves would be opening and closing properly. If still the bulb doesn't become hard, there is a problem between the primer bulb and the fuel supply (try another fuel tank for test purposes).

Your explanation of the problem indicates that the engine fuel system is not being primed via the fuel primer bulb and that the VRO pump is being relied on to fill those spaces in the engine's fuel system... that would result in one slow starting engine.

NOTE: Having the electric starter engaged for more than 20 seconds runs the risk of having the solder melting away that attaches the armature's winding's to the commutator. Let it cool off occasionally.

Have someone push the key in (Key ON, engine NOT running) while you are close by the fuel primer solenoid... you should be able to hear it "click" in. If not, check to see if voltage is present at the solenoid when the key is pushed in.

Let us know what you find.
 
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Thanks for the input. I will find time to pursue these suggestions asap. Does the fact that the engine runs well and starts quickly after the first/cold start of the day shed any light on this?
 
magnet said:
Thanks for the input. I will find time to pursue these suggestions asap. Does the fact that the engine runs well and starts quickly after the first/cold start of the day shed any light on this?
Click to expand...

That's a normal happening... after finally once filling the fuel components with fuel, they are constantly being refilled as the engine runs, and since the evaporation rate is quite slow, they stay that way when the engine is shut down, ready for a restart.
 
PROBLEM SOLVED: Operator error. I'm new to this motor, and I'm a bit chagrined to acknowledge that the problem was the key was not getting depressed hard enough to activate the primer. FYI, clamping off gas line between bulb and motor resulted in hard bulb. The fuel primer solenoid does click when the key is pressed in fully and the motor responds appropriately if primed while running. Thank everyone for their input. While I'm sorry to have taken your time, I'm relieved that there isn't a problem. I would not call your efforts wasted, however, as it saved me a potential trip to the shop and subsequently being without the boat during some prime fall fishing. THANKS!
 
Glad to hear that your problem was a small one and that all is well in primer world.

Rest assured that you are not wasting our time... we are here regardless and are thankful that we're given something to do. It's keeps us out of that damn rocking chair on the porch. :)
 
Yeah, that is a recent development. That was not an issue when I bought the boat/motor (three months ago). What types of problems might that cause? It runs smoothly once warmed up, and now it's starting easily.
 
joereeves said:
Temporarily clamp the fuel line shut between the fuel primer bulb and the engine. Does the fuel primer bulb get hard now? If so, fuel is either flowing through one or more carburetors, the VRO is leaking fuel through a diaphragm into the crankcase via the pulse line,
Let us know what you find.
Click to expand...

Here ya go.

If this is happening it will destroy the engine.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
Not to rain on your parade. The primer ball not getting hard is a problem!
Click to expand...

Oh yeah... slipped my mind as he defined his primer solenoid cure so well that I went down another route. However in my first reply post I stated..... " Temporarily clamp the fuel line shut between the fuel primer bulb and the engine. Does the fuel primer bulb get hard now? If so, fuel is either flowing through one or more carburetors, the VRO is leaking fuel through a diaphragm into the crankcase via the pulse line, or you have the primer solenoid's red valve turned in the wrong direction (it should be facing the other end of the black solenoid to be in the automatic, key start position).

That should cover it unless a fuel line was left off somewhere. :cool:
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by joereeves
Click to expand...
Docksidemarineservices said:
Temporarily clamp the fuel line shut between the fuel primer bulb and the engine. Does the fuel primer bulb get hard now? If so, fuel is either flowing through one or more carburetors, the VRO is leaking fuel through a diaphragm into the crankcase via the pulse line,
Let us know what you find.
Click to expand...


Docksidemarineservices said:
Here ya go.

If this is happening it will destroy the engine.
Click to expand...

Yep, sure would... it would also prevent the fuel primer bulb from becoming hard. :)
 
I can hear gas flowing when the bulb is pumped. What diagnostic steps would be in order to isolate the leak? Also, should I minimize bulb pumping until this is resolved?
 
I don't doubt the validity of your answer, Chris, but can you explain what will occur that will destroy the engine if it is run?
 
So, that one symptom -- bulb not getting hard -- tells us definitively that the the VRO pump is not mixing oil/gas properly? And, can VRO pumps be replaced fairly easily, or is that a job for a seasoned mechanic?
 
actually, that one symptom led to a handful of diagnostic tests that concluded the pump has failed.
The pump is not complicated to replace, it does however require you to be at least a novice contortionist. 1 incoming fuel line, 1 incoming oil line, 1 outgoing line, a pulse line and pulse limiter mounted on the block, and a fuel manifold to distribute fuel/oil mix to the carbs. The annoying part is the damn little rubber standoffs.
the $500 pricetag may give you pause.
For roughly $130 you can go to a premix fuel pump and mix your own. That one is a little more involved, still should take +/- 1 hr excluding removing the old oil tank, line, and harness.
 
magnet said:
So, that one symptom -- bulb not getting hard -- tells us definitively that the the VRO pump is not mixing oil/gas properly? And, can VRO pumps be replaced fairly easily, or is that a job for a seasoned mechanic?
Click to expand...

The fuel coming out of the pulse line is the Key. It is putting unmixed fuel in the crankcase, That is bad.

Replace the VRO and keep the oil tank. You will be happier in the long run.
 
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