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2000, 60 hp Tracker, 3 cyl., Over fueling??

D

dwjohnso

New member
Hi. New to this forum but have researched here before many times. Sorry for the long post but trying to include all info.
Have an engine that has a bog spot starting around 3k and clears up around 4k.(easy or full throttle) New engine to me so no history and has ran like this from the start for me. Cranks and idles perfect, full throttle, pass the bog, runs great. only issue is from 3-4k
Cleaned carbs that were not dirty or clogged. Floats around 12-13mm on tapered end/edge of float
Comp. is 121-122 on all 3. verified spark w/ timing light on all 3 going down the river during the bad spot.
Did apply push key choke during bog w/ no change except if held long enough motor will die off of course.
Also pumped primer bulb while bogging w/ no change.
I did find that when I disconnect the fuel line from engine it does not bog. Runs great all throttle ranges untill it starts to run out of fuel. I suspect it is over fueling somehow.
Has the carbs that have the little round gasket on top of the main fuel tower. Only has the one main jet that I can tell. Issue is just like a too rich mid range jet in a bike.( I work on Harleys)
Any help or ideas? Any things to try or check next please.I guess it has to be the needle and seat somehow right?? thanks!
 
Thank you so much for the reply, I was beginning to wonder if I had done something wrong
I do not have any fuel spew from anywhere that I can spot when I pump up the bulb tight and even hold it tight with hand pressure for awhile. I have inspected the throat of the carbs while doing this and even tilted the motor way up while checking this also.
I did find that I seem to be able to "tune" this bog out by leaning down the idle mix. screws, but then it won't idle of course. But while learning this, I found that my top carb idle mix. screw is only out a 1/4 turn where as my other 2 are out 1 & 1/4 turn. This appears to be where the motor wants them right now because this is where they end up each time I do an "in gear" check while still tied in on the trailer. Could this be pointing to something?? Would a bad fuel pump flood the top carb on my application? Pump is located just under and behind the oil tank reservoir. best I can tell it has a vacuum line that seems to go up towards the top of engine(near top carb)
Only problem I have a hard time understanding is why is this issue so constant at only the certain rpm range each and every time. Seems to crank and idle perfect and runs wide open perfect once I get past 3-4k rpm's. It literally starts out great, changes or cuts back/ bogs and has a "motor shake" to it from 3 thru 4 k rpm's, then straightens back up and pulls perfect again. Thanks for any input !! I will surely try rebuilding the fuel pump

Thanks for the link to the parts list,
Can you fill me in on selecting the correct part number? where could I find my serial numbers, or whatever, that I would use to choose the right one and would you trust aftermarket on this? Thanks again
 
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3 cylinder 60 is a strange creature. The middle cylinder is fed from both carbs. At idle you may be getting excess fuel into the crankcase from the fuel pump but the tight idle screw on top carb hides it. At the 3k - 4k range, the excess fuel could be flooding the top two cylinders, and when you get past that, the engine runs WOT with a rich mixture and is possible flapping the diaphraghm fast enough that it is not getting much extra fuel into the crankcase. Just speculation. I have a 3 cylinder 60 I have been working on for the last few months, may be approaching fixed with it. Hope that didn't jinx me. Best of luck!
 
Thank you for finally responding. Seems no one wants to chime in on my questions or issue. Maybe I'm one of the ones that always asks things that have already been explained in detail before.??
Are you saying that your 3 cylinder 60 only has 2 carbs? ("middle cylinder is fed from both carbs", in your response)
Mine has 3 carbs, 2000 year model, 60 Tracker.
I'm thinking the same theory on all things and rpm stages. Surely that leaned out top mixture screw is telling me something. Been delayed here on rebuilding fuel pump. Too busy just fishing.
But I do need to figure out which kit to order. Thought I would just rebuild it, in hopes of that fixing it. Don't know if there is an actual test procedure.???
Is it easy enough to just order either the 3 bolt triangle one or the 4 bolt square one, whichever one matches mine ??
Thanks
 
The serial number should be on the side of the swivel bracket that your transom clamps are bolted to. Or it might be on the side of the one of the transom clamps.

It's on a sticker and might start with "OB", "OD", "OG", or some other combination of letters and numbers. Then you can plug your serial number into the parts query here and it should come up with the appropriate diagram for your engine.

Failing that, you probably could order by style of pump. All of the 60's I looked up here (except the earliest one) had the square fuel pump, quite common:

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER21-857005A+1

HTH.............ed
 
I agree with ed - find your serial if you can, that is ideal. I had to identify my 60 from pictures and cowling style. I am confident now about what I have. You get instructions with the rebuild kit, look at them and make sure it matches your fuel pump. And yes, I have two carbs. Have a couple spares too.
 
Thanks guys.
I found the serial and the model numbers. also found the carb numbers on their side as well...like WME 2 XK.
Square pump with some casting numbers on it too. Not sure if they are useful. Have them all written down in the shop.
Will follow up on that asap. Right now have to go to work thanks to Florence. Work with a power company over on the East coast in SC. Gonna mess my fishing up for a while now. Thanks again
 
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