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1999 Johnson 130 Ocean Pro - Running issue

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BRBHorizon

Member
New kid on the block here. Just bought an 1999018' Four Winns with a 130 Johnson.

I had the motor checked out at my local marina and was told it was mint. We've run it a bunch of times with no issues, in fact it ran great. The last two times out we've had the same issue. It's starts just fine and runs well, then, after say 10 minutes we shut it down and just float down the river. It's when we go to start back up the fun begins. It takes a little longer to fire up and doesn't idle well. Then, when I put it in gear and try to give it some gas, it just dies. This will repeat several times until it finally runs. Once it's running, it seems OK again.

In a nutshell, it's when I try to restart after a break that I have issues. I find it odd, because starting (and running) from cold, right off the trailer, it seems fine.

Any suggestions?
 
The "stator" is the beginning of both the battery charging and the ignition system. It runs quite hot and is known to fail for just this reason. This may not be your problem... BUT... the description of your engine's problem points to it and it is the first thing I would look at!

The stator under the flywheel can be checked visually for a meltdown. Look closely at it. If there is any cracks and/or a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base and powerhead area, that would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack. Should this condition exist, replace the stator. This condition, when it begins, may result in perfect spark when the engine is cold...BUT... after it warms up, then shut down to fish a bit or whatever and all that engine heat rises to the flywheel and stator area, that stator fails, resulting in weak, erratic, and eventually no spark! A stator in this meltdown condition requires replacing regardless of whatever reading one may get out of it.

You may check the resistance of the stator with an ohm meter between the Brown wire and the Brown/Yellow wire. Check for whatever the proper readings should be in your service manual. If you have no manual, your local library may have one.
 
Thanks for the response.

It never occurred to me it could be electrical. I was leaning to fuel. But what your describe makes perfect sense. That said, if what your saying is correct, would it makes sense that, once I do get it started, it runs just fine?
 
BRBHorizon said:
Thanks for the response.

It never occurred to me it could be electrical. I was leaning to fuel. But what your describe makes perfect sense. That said, if what your saying is correct, would it makes sense that, once I do get it started, it runs just fine?
Click to expand...

That depends on just how bad the stator has melted down... if this indeed is the case. Being a cold engine and the stator still in a borderline meltdown condition, the stator may function fine UNTIL you shut it down and all that rising heat adds to the already hot stator/flywheel.

But as I mentioned in not so many words, if this is the case.... it just gets worse and eventually it fails completely.

Let me know what you see under that flywheel.
 
Forgive my ignorance but is the stator obviously visible? I'm not seeing anything under the flywheel that looks like what I expected a stator to look like (copper coils)
 
The stator is under the flywheel.------------It may not look like it to the untrained eye.------------Coils may be covered / hidden by plastic.
 
Pull the flywheel cover off, might help, If this is not the issue,Try squeezing primer bulb to reprime engine,fuel could be siphoning back to tank
 
I'll try the bulb the next time I'm out too. In the meantime... Am I looking in the right place? Do I need to remove the flywheel to inspect and test for resistance?

Stator%201_zps71v3ggr0.jpg



Stator%202_zpsyoty0bqh.jpg
 
Yes, the (usually green) sealed ring right next to the flywheel is the stator. Move the flywheel slightly... the thing right next to it that doesn't move is the stator. This may not be your problem but it's not something you would want to take for granted.

As "johnny" (reply post #8) suggests, you may have a backwards siphoning problem... fuel draining back into the tank.
 
So I conducted an ultra scientific experiment on the weekend. It consisted of the following...

Drop boat in water... Fire up motor... Run for half an hour or so... Stop and eat lunch (another half hour or so)... Pump the primer bulb doo dad thingy... Fire up the motor.

This time all was well. Makes me think that my issue is fuel siphoning back. Now the question is, how you I fix it? I don't have a portable can, this is on a Four Winns 18' BR with a built in fuel tank. Is there a check valve or some such I should be replacing?
 
Siphoning back into the tank is usually one of two possible causes:

1 - Faulty valve(s) in the fuel primer bulb (possible).

2 - Anti siphon valve missing or stuck open (most likely).

(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

NOTE: There has been cases when the output valve in the fuel primer bulb would come apart, and the inner portion of the valve would actually reverse itself and be drawn back into the primer bulb's output valve body. This in effect would create a shut off valve and result in a fuel restriction. If this is the case, you should be able to feel something laying in the bottom of the primer bulb when held horizontally.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
I don't think it's starving for fuel because it runs like a champ once it gets going. It was simply that, when sat for a while, it wouldn't restart.

Is it the A/S valve that prevents the fuel draining back? If that is the case, won't removing the guts make that worse?
 
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BRBHorizon said:
I don't think it's starving for fuel because it runs like a champ once it gets going. It was simply that, when sat for a while, it wouldn't restart.

Is it the A/S valve that prevents the fuel draining back? If that is the case, won't removing the guts make that worse?
Click to expand...

The spiel about the Anti Siphon Valve as per my previous reply post #15 was taken from my database... I didn't think it was necessary to rewrite it. It was mainly to let you know where it would be located and what it's function is along with its possible problems.

You must have skipped over the following paragraph:

"The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve."
 
joereeves said:
The spiel about the Anti Siphon Valve as per my previous reply post #15 was taken from my database... I didn't think it was necessary to rewrite it. It was mainly to let you know where it would be located and what it's function is along with its possible problems.

You must have skipped over the following paragraph:

"The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve."
Click to expand...

I could have sworn I replied to this yesterday.

I need to learnt to read everything. So sorry about that and thanks for the info.

I'm still having a hard time wrapping my head around how the A/S valve works. If it's there to prevent fuel exiting the tank, how does it prevent fuel from entering. I know, I'm a pain. Ask my wife.

Still can't find the appropriate part #
 
BRBHorizon said:
I'm still having a hard time wrapping my head around how the A/S valve works. If it's there to prevent fuel exiting the tank, how does it prevent fuel from entering. Still can't find the appropriate part #
Click to expand...

You obviously have a habit of reading into things actions that do not exist within various components... I don't need to ask your wife about that! :)

A "Anti Siphon Valve" does not prevent fuel from exiting the fuel tank... the suction/vacuum of the fuel pump causes the valve to open, allowing the fuel to be drawn to the engine.

It is not part of the engine parts list and has no OMC or Bombardier part number as it is considered an accessory. Just ask your dealership about it if you can't find it on this site.
 
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Thanks again for the help. I'll be ordering a valve and I think I'll replace the primer as well while I'm at it.

Here's my impression of a broken record...

Unless I'm totally of track, the A/S valve does in fact prevent fuel from exiting the tank in the event the hose were to break or become disconnected. The ball inside is closed by the spring preventing the leak (siphoning). The vacuum is sufficient to overcome the spring tension, allowing fuel to enter the system. Now that I have that part figured out, it makes perfect sense that the same valve would now allow fuel back to the tank.
 
BRBHorizon said:
Thanks again for the help. I'll be ordering a valve and I think I'll replace the primer as well while I'm at it.

Here's my impression of a broken record...

Unless I'm totally off track, the A/S valve does in fact prevent fuel from exiting the tank in the event the hose were to break or become disconnected. The ball inside is closed by the spring preventing the leak (siphoning). The vacuum is sufficient to overcome the spring tension, allowing fuel to enter the system. Now that I have that part figured out, it makes perfect sense that the same valve would now allow fuel back to the tank.
Click to expand...

.............................................
 
Something else just occurred to me that may be related and I can't believe I didn't think of it before... Duh. The highest RPM I've seen on the motor is 4000. I suspect that's low right?

Boat is a Four Winns 180 Horizon BR. Prop is 14-1/2 x 19. Had compression checked at a local Marina and all four were 150. Current plugs are NGK but Champions are going in this weekend.

Do low RPMs point to partial fuel flow (blocked A/S valve) too?

The plan is to find the valve this weekend but I figured I'd ask anyway
 
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Very possible it's related to a fuel restriction, Your 19" pitched prop has me thinking,it might be a tad too much. wait for other replies.
 
johnnygjr said:
Very possible it's related to a fuel restriction, Your 19" pitched prop has me thinking,it might be a tad too much. wait for other replies.
Click to expand...
I am using a 14.5 by 19 pitch on a 2000 Johnson 150 Oceanpro with top compression and can barely squeeze 5200 rpm in a lightly loaded 1979 Glastron Sea Fury v216. The recommended operating range for it at WOT is between 4500 and 5500. I expect the 130 Oceanpro would have the same range?? I concur fully with your suspicion about being over propped.
 
A prop that gets your boat to WOT,highest rpms recommended for that model, For every inch of smaller pitch theoretically your engine should gain 200 rpms,So 5 inches less of pitch should give you 1000 rpms.Weather conditions,load of fuel,passengers, cargo all play a role in propeller selection. If you run solo prop to that
 
I'll be taking it out tonight with a basically empty boat and just the two of us (which is the norm) so we'll see how it goes.

I finally got to the fuel tank (basically have to rip half the boat apart to get to it) and, as best I can tell the A/S seems OK but I bought an external tank and a new primer/hose so I'll run with that tonight. That will eliminate the fuel tank/valve/hose from the inquiry.

Thanks again for all the replies guys
 
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