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1998 200HP STLCCM powerhead removal

G

gene_d

Regular Contributor
Hello everyone.
I want to replace the lower crankshaft seal on my Evinrude 200.
I have already done the top seal.
I pulled the lower cover off, and I can see 2 different places to unbolt the midsection from the powerhead.
I removed the 1B bolts from the top and tried to split the #1 line, and it won't budge. I didn't hit it too hard.
Am I trying the right bolts, or should I remove the lower #2 bolts?
EvinBlock.jpg
 
You didn't get my reply about the other bolts and nuts at the front and nut in back? Also the 2B bolts I mentioned that required removing?
 
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I thought a private message would be sent via email. I just checked my messages, and I see your reply Joe.
The lower unit with the shift rod is off.
Thank You.
 
Thanks for your help. I got it apart.
When you said those bolts were long you weren't kidding Joe.
Now that I have it apart, I can't believe what I found.
There should be 8 bolts around the bearing headcap. Well 4 bolts are missing, and the other 4 were almost falling out.
Check out the picture.
The center 4 bolts were tight, but I am not sure what these are for.
I am 99% sure this motor was never taken apart from new.
Unless the dealer did it with the 20 hour checkup, 20 years ago,
I could not find any bolts in the upper midsection, There are holes there where they could have fallen out.
I am doing the crankshaft seals just as a big "upkeep" job. Man am I glad I did.

Have you guys ever seen this before.
EvinBlock2.jpg
 
I've had a few engines apart BUT I have never encountered anything like that. It would be a good idea to use some locTite on those bolts when reassembling.
 
Absolutely, any gasket can be purchased separately. Unfortunately I don't have the part number but someone will jump in here with it shortly I'm sure.
 
The numbers referenced are from shop.evinrude.com when you drill down to your motor, and select "crankshaft and piston" section.

Those four bolts you refer to as being tight (#14)...those are going to be a problem.
You cannot get the crank end (#12) off without taking out those bolts, but getting them back in is tough. They thread into a steel ring (#10) that is free to rotate inside there, and when you go to put the bolts back, the holes will not line up.
I am not sure you would ever get it back.....it actually falls all over the place in these and the only access is thru those four small bolt holes....I wouldn't do it.

The crank head end must come out to change the o-ring seals (#6) ....so if it is not broke, don't fix it.

The four bolts in question also have an o-ring seal (#15) around the base of the head of the bolt. Factory recommendation is to use new bolts there.

I am surprised one of these experts didn't warn you about those four bolts....

The base gasket is easily available, P/N 333879.
 
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Those bolts that screw into the steel plate as Daselbee has brought to our attention is a excellent point. However, this is similar to the steel plate that retains the carrier housing on a thru hub lower unit.

The trick to keeping the plate where it belongs so that the retaining bolts can easily be inserted is to have a couple theaded rods installed in the plate, pass the rods thru the housing, then insert two of the bolts into and thru the remaining housing holes just to a snugging up point. Remove the two threaded rods and insert the two remaining bolts, then tighten to specifications.
 
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joereeves said:
Those bolts that screw into the steel plate as Daselbee has brought to out attention is a excellent point. However, this is similar to the steel plate that retains the carrier housing on a thru hub lower unit.

The trick to keeping the plate where it belongs so that the retaining bolts can easily be inserted is to have a couple theaded rods installed in the plate, pass the rods thru the housing, then insert two of the bolts into and thru the remaining housing holes just to a snugging up point. Remove the two threaded rods and insert the two remaining bolts, then tighten to specifications.
Click to expand...

Yes Joe is exactly right. A six inch or so rod threaded to fit into the steel ring threads will do the trick. However, that is where I have had my issues with this particular assembly. The required threads are very very fine, and I do not have any taps/dies to make my own threaded rod. You cannot get it at a hardware store. I cannot even I.D. what the thread is...it is something like #8 size, but finer than the normal #8-32 screw. If you had two spare bolts, you could cut them off, and extend them with welding rod or similar material.

I guess I have been lucky to never need to work on that assembly unless the engine is all apart, and at that point, I always service that area with new o-rings and seals on the bolts. It is easy to do then. One of these days I guess I will be forced to make the extended threaded rods and use them as Joe suggests.

If anyone knows the thread size...chime in.
 
I just did a very quick I-net search for threaded rod manufacturers.
It was a very quick, cursory search, and the bottom line is I couldn't find a manufacturer for threaded rod in the #8 size, they all started at #10-24, which is coarse thread.
On another point, those screws PN 332590 sell for $8.15 each and you need 4 of them. BRP sure thinks alot of their hardware......

I think Sierra also sells the same screw.....I mention this because they will be a good source if someone wants to cut them off and fabricate their own.

My bet is Evinrude had a special tool released for aligning this assembly. Don't know for sure, tho.
 
Wow, lots of great input, thanks guys.
I am a machinist/ tool maker. I will make a tool and I WILL get that thing back on. I don't want to risk melting a piston from an air leak on this outboard.
the bolts with the o-rings you are talking about? Are those the 4 center ones only? Can just the o-rings be replaced?
On my shopping list is:
1 base gasket-
4 bolts, or 4 small o-rings-
2 big o-rings.(head assy)
Can you think of anything else I will need?
 
I want to thank you guys for your help.
I just ordered the parts from marineengine.com.
I took out 1 of those bolts, and it is a very common 1/4-28 thread.
You have given great info.
Thanks again.
 
I notice the rust on the crankshaft spline area you are lucky to get the LU off be sure to clean and lube it generously to prevent future freezing, also make sure seal on LU upper shaft (close to splines) are in place when you install the LU
 
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