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1998 - 115 johnson

J

John K.

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Hello to forum. my first visit is to try determine what to look for next regarding a problem with what i believe to be ignition shut down. here is my story. 3 summers ago i started experiencing nasty shut down while running at approx 4000 rpm and higher. i first changed out the optical eye still bad then changed out stator still bad then changed out CD pack. this was good for approx 40 hours. symptoms began to return. replaced CD pack again with OEM replacement. problem solved. once again approx 40 hours (3 seasons later) i am having the ignition shut down again at higher RPMS. i discussed with manufacturer (CDI electronics) decided to try new coils after determining voltage regulator tested good. still not good. could a leaking oil problem affect VRO pump and shut this down? now when it shuts down it wont restart for several minutes. it would start right back up during previous shut downs.?.?.
 
Temporarily disconnect the black/yellow wire (kill Circuit) from the ignition switch. If that corrects the problem, replace the ignition switch.

NOTE: You will not be able to shut the engine down with that wire disconnected. Be aware that a pretty nasty shock can be encountered by touching the terminal end of that wire after running.
 
joereeves said:
Temporarily disconnect the black/yellow wire (kill Circuit) from the ignition switch. If that corrects the problem, replace the ignition switch.

NOTE: You will not be able to shut the engine down with that wire disconnected. Be aware that a pretty nasty shock can be encountered by touching the terminal end of that wire after running.
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Hey joe thanks for the suggestion. Tried it and also disconnected systems check harness. No luck with that idea. Ran approx 10 minutes at 4000 RPM before shut down. Ran at 2000rpm endlessly and as soon as I creeped up to 3600 it shut down again.
 
First guess would be a bad CD Pack again. But other items in the ignition system should be checked out before condemning the pack.
 
Boobie said:
Good thinking !!
Click to expand...

In agreement with Boobie pertaining to trying the old stator.

NOTE that if the stator has overheated (and they all do eventually) and they are dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead area, that would result in a voltage drop to the powerpack capacitor, which in turn would result in weak, erratic and eventually no ignition.

A stator in this condition may work perfectly when cold but as it heats up... temporary failure is imminent. Regardless of whatever reading one may obtain on a stator in this condition... replace it.
 
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