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1997 johnson venom 200

C

carlo reina

Guest
"Help! Would a weak cell in m

"Help! Would a weak cell in my cranking battery cause no start condition even though the cranking seems strong enough to make it start. It seems to be cranking fast enough, but will not start. Also only showing 10-11 volts after it does start."
 
do you have good spark while i

do you have good spark while it is cranking?

have you tried spraying premix gas into the carbs?....do not use starter fluid--only use pre-mixed gas
 
"Everything, including manual

"Everything, including manual priming. Has gas, have fouled plugs over priming it. This is an intermittent issue. Next day after battery charged fully,it will start. Three hours later, no start. I just wondered if you must have a full twelve volts in order for the ignition to do its thing, or if it sounds like its cranking fast enough to start...it should start."
 
The battery has nothing to do

The battery has nothing to do with the ignition system itself.The battery and starter must be in good condition to crank the motor over fast enough for the magneto ignition to work.In other words --------the flywheel must spin fast to energize the ignition.
 
"if the battery and charging s

"if the battery and charging system were in good order, a voltmeter should read at least 13 volts when the engine is running. A load test should be run on the battery or a hydrometer test to spot any dead cells...If you do not have access to a load tester or hydrometer, most auto parts stores will test it for free"
 
"ikia, if the battery has noth

"ikia, if the battery has nothing to do with it, yet the flywheel must spin fast enough to energize the ignition, how fast should it spin and whats going to make it spin fast enough? The battery right? So if it is not putting out enough power to spin the flywheel fast, wouldn't the battery output have something to do with it?"
 
The cranking rpm must be at le

The cranking rpm must be at least 300 rpm in order for the stator to energize the powerpack.
 
"Thank you Joe. So if I don&#

"Thank you Joe. So if I don't have 300rpm, I don't have strong enough spark, or no spark at all, cause I do have spark. The motor will start at times, like it should, other times after fishing at night for two hours without running motor, it sounds like it is spinning fast enough...has spark, but will not start. Next morning, she starts right up. Mindblower!"
 
does the spark jump a 7/16 gap

does the spark jump a 7/16 gap with a good blue flame?.....does it have the same good spark after it is warmed up?...orange flame and not jumping a good gap are indications of a failing ignition system at some point.

if she has spark but wont start i would check the fuel system.......maybe dirty carbs or a clog in the filter or line.
 
"david,
I just manually prime

"david,
I just manually primed engine by moving red indicator to prime position and noticed gas dripping out of lower carb. Anybody...is this normal or do I have a float sticking or a bad carb gasket?"
 
"Faulty float needle valve ass

"Faulty float needle valve assembly or incorrect float level, or both.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Thanks guys, so what you are

"Thanks guys, so what you are saying is there should not be gas dripping out of the air intake on the carbs and the cause could be float needle valve assembly or incorrect float level or both and if this is happening by manually priming, its also happening when I push in the key while cranking and prime, thus fouling the plugs and not getting a "start" and when it starts right up the next day or many hours later, the plugs dry out a bit and it starts because its not flooded."
 
"The stator under the flywheel

"The stator under the flywheel..... is there any substance dripping, oozing out of it down on the powerhead area?"
 
"Joe,
Stator has match head s

"Joe,
Stator has match head size amber varnish looking drips on the coils but nothing that has dripped on to the power head. There is one dime size glob that is hard and black on power head, but it is glossy very hard black like the paint color of the motor even looks like it is painted and cannot be scraped or moved off. Are drips you speak of to be yellow or amber colored or are they black tar like substance? Had shop test stator last year when this issue 1st surfaced and they told me it was ok. Do they go bad intermittently or all at once and you get no start ever again. I can usually start it the next day or even a few hours later. I once read here that even a stator that checks out to be ok can still be the culprit when its an intermittent issue such as this. Your expertise in this matter is greatly appreciated as this has become a safety issue more than once. Please advise!"
 
Carlo----The battery is not co

Carlo----The battery is not connected to the spark making system on your motor.The battery and starter must spin the motor FAST so that the magneto makes the spark.
 
"So if the battery and starter

"So if the battery and starter are not making the the motor spin FAST so that magneto makes spark. Then either the battery or the starter may be causing issues correct? Or as Joe states, the stator may be causing issues. But what about the gas that is flooding the carbs when I push in the key while cranking?"
 
That is the primer system and

That is the primer system and it basically pours fuel into the carburetors for start up.Do carburetors leak when you operate the manual fuel pump ( AKA primer bulb ) on the hose???
 
"Ikia, no not pumping bulb, bu

"Ikia, no not pumping bulb, but when I turn the manual red indicator arrow (on prime solenoid) to the 12 oclock position gas pours out of the top two carbs. Does this manual prime mimic what the "push in key" method does?"
 
"Carlo... If the engine is not

"Carlo... If the engine is not cranking over fast enough and you push in the key to energize the fuel primer solenoid, the suction at the intake manifold/carburetor throats might not be strong enough to draw the fuel into the crankcase properly. This would allow some fuel to escape out the front of the carburetor(s). And as mentioned above, slow cranking affects the ignition.

The melting down of the stator that I mention, the substance that would drip from the stator would be from the large black cois to the rear of the stator. That substance would be sort of a thick dark colored molasses substance that would take on a semi hardening effect in time. It would not become rock hard though... you would be able to shove your fingernail into it.

A fair test to see if the carburetors are flooding would be to have the carburetor face plate removed, pump the fuel primmer bulb up hard, and observe the carburetor throats. If fuel flows out the carburetors, they're flooding and will require reworking.

When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Joe,
Does moving the red dia

"Joe,
Does moving the red dial on the prime solenoid to the 12 oclock position mimic pushing the key in while engine cranks? I get fuel coming out of top carbs moving dial to 12 o clock (not cranking engine). I don't have fuel coming out of top carbs just pumping bulb."
 
The red lever is the manual op

The red lever is the manual operation of the primer and is the same as pushing the key in.You should invest in a factory shop manual!
 
"I have no idea as to the rela

"I have no idea as to the relative position of that fuel primer solenoid so I don't know what the 12 O'clock position would be in relation to the solenoid body.

If the RED lever is pointed away from the solenoid, that alllows fuel to pass thru it to the carburetors and intake manifold on a steady constant basis such as keeping a electric choke butterfly closed. This would of course result in having excessive fuel in the carburtor throat which would flow out as you stste.

(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Thanks for the in depth answe

"Thanks for the in depth answer Joe. Starting procedure has been followed, battery has a dead cell (just found this out) its not spinning flywheel at 300 rpm so I assume that the battery (which has nothing to do with the ignition) is not allowing the mag to do its job, and hence I have "no start" condition. I have replaced battery, and she fires right up!

Ikia, I would never have found that out reading my factory shop manual I've invested in, though, and I thank you for taking time to help me with this issue."
 
"One last note...in my 60 some

"One last note...in my 60 something years I find that there is no shop manual that can duplicate the wisdom, and knowledge that comes from "being there and doing it" as Joe and others on this board have been. The experience just cannot be found in the "manual" and I extend my appreciation to you guys who keep us "rookies" on the water fishing for fish and not fishing for answers in a shop manual.Peace!"
 
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