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1997 Johnson 150; Engine Problems After Running for Awhile

aumustang

New member
I have a 1997 Johnson 150 that has been maintained very well over it's life. Compression is even in all cylinders at around 90. Starting at the end of last season, the engine started having trouble. The engine starts up quick and runs well for awhile. Then at some point (usually between 30 minutes and 1 hour) the engine often dies. When I restart it, the RPM's go up to over 2000 and if I put it into gear, and give it throttle, it dies if I move it much beyond idle. If I let it cool down completely, it will run for another 30-60 minutes before acting up again. At first the problem was very intermittent, but the last 8 times I've been out I've had to limp back to the dock in idle. I've had the boat in the shop twice, and they recently changed out the power pack and said I was good to go. I took it out this past weekend and had to limp back in after an hour. This time, the motor ran fine for about 45 minutes and then I stopped to swim for about 20 minutes. As soon as I turned it on, it started having problems again. I've already spent about $600 on shop time and parts, and haven't noticed any change. I've also changed out the spark plugs, used completely new gas, and run sea foam through the engine twice.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Is the head getting hot after being run for a while? Thermostats can cause the head to tighten up which will slow the running down. Even if water exits the "PP"
 
Is the head getting hot after being run for a while? Thermostats can cause the head to tighten up which will slow the running down. Even if water exits the "PP"

I replaced the thermostats last year and it appears they are working correctly. I had my friend drive the boat while I placed my hand in the exhaust stream. The temperature of the water increased and decreased as the thermostats opened and closed. I'll check to make sure that one side isn't stuck closed. Would the engine running hot cause it to jump up in RPM's at idle?
 
No Electronics getting too hot will cause numerous problems. Use a laser thermometer on heads to see actual temps. Can you keep hand on head for a slow 6 second count.
 
No Electronics getting too hot will cause numerous problems. Use a laser thermometer on heads to see actual temps. Can you keep hand on head for a slow 6 second count.

Thank you, do I need to take it out and run it under a load to get accurate picture, or can I run it on a hose? I can probably take it out on Friday if I need to run it under a load.

-Joe
 
Open water would be ideal place. No substitute for real life conditions.

It seems that the problem was the optical sensor. As I said before, the power pack had already been replaced and there was no change. I went ahead and replaced the optical sensor (since it was relatively cheap and I didn't know what else it could be electrically) and that seemed to do the trick. I'm taking it out again tomorrow to see if the issue is really fixed, but I ran it for nearly 2 hours problem free last thursday.

Thanks.
 
You beat me to it as I was going to suggest the optical sensor. I've seen this problem with the sensor a number of times.
 
You beat me to it as I was going to suggest the optical sensor. I've seen this problem with the sensor a number of times.

Thanks for the help. I have run it for over 10 hours since the optical sensor was replaced and have had no issues. Unfortunately, the time I got stuck in the ocean with the high rpms (at idle) shredded my lower unit since it kept dying and I had to put it in gear at almost 2000 rpms. So, it has a new lower unit too!
 
1997 Johnson 150. Compression is even in all cylinders at around 90.... The engine starts up quick and runs well for awhile.... Then at some point (usually between 30 minutes and 1 hour) the engine often dies.... When I restart it, the RPM's go up to over 2000 and if I put it into gear, and give it throttle, it dies if I move it much beyond idle.... If I let it cool down completely, it will run for another 30-60 minutes before acting up again. I've had the boat in the shop twice, they changed the power pack and said I was good to go.... I took it out this past weekend and had to limp back in after an hour.

Is this engine still a VRO model or converted back to pre-mix?

Does the warning horn sound when you turn the key to the ON position?

With the key in the ON position (engine NOT running), does the warning horn sound steady and constant when the Heat Sensor with (usually TAN) protruding from the cylinder heads is grounded.

Does the warning horn sound when this problem raises its ugly head... and if so, what kind of warning does it emit?

Your description of the problem sort of indicates a fuel restriction BUT that should give a constant steady horn warning... which you do not mention. The restart high rpm could result due to a lean setting (rare but it happens), and the bogging out when throttle is applied would result from a low quantity of fuel in the carburetors. It makes one wonder if you're encountering a anti siphon valve problem as follows.

(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

NOTE: There has been cases when the output valve in the fuel primer bulb would come apart, and the inner portion of the valve would actually reverse itself and be drawn back into the primer bulb's output valve body. This in effect would create a shut off valve and result in a fuel restriction. If this is the case, you should be able to feel something laying in the bottom of the primer bulb when held horizontally.
 
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