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1997 BF15 lower shift rod replacement

D

dustywrenches

New member
Long story short, shift rod A/B galled up inside of the adjusting barrel nut. This forced replacing the upper shift rod (through the swivel to the actuator linkage, the adjusting barrel, and repairing the lower unit shift threads with a 6.0mm x 1.00 die. The threads aren't great even after repair, on the end-most 1/4" of the lower shaft, which leaves me two options:

1) install the barrel nut lower on the upper shaft than specified (1mm protrusion in FWD below midsection exit), so as to grab the clean threads of the lower shaft and call it a day. This works in my head, not sure how well it will if I try it.

2) replace the lower shift rod (the gearbox one with the S bend).

I have a new lower rod, but the service manual is unclear as to the procedure for removal. Can the rod be removed without full prop shaft/clutch/bevel gear disassembly? I see there is a retaining bolt near the water pump. Understanding the dog clutch is spring loaded, not sure if the bolt can be removed or not. Seems like there may be an "upper" assembly (shift rod/seal, water pump, driveshaft) that can be removed as a unit as well. Beyond how to get it out, I understand the next challenge may be removing/assembling the two spring pins in the shaft.

Any help greatly appreciated.
 
#8 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/1997/BF9.9AM SAS /VERTICAL SHAFT/parts.html comes out as one assembly.

Remove the retaining bolt...

Since this motor is so old and this assembly most likely has never been removed, apply a generous amount of pb blaster to the area and let it soak in over night.

There are a couple of ways to get it out. One is to grab the rod and pull it up with a jerking motion (like a slap hammer). One of the small pins that you referred to will bang up against the bottom of the seal holder (#13). Generally, this does not work well on gearcases that have never been apart.

If it does not come up that way, then since you are replacing the rod anyway, take a visegrip and lock it onto the rod about 4 inch up from the bottom. Then take something like a short 2 x 4 on its side and use it as a fulcrum. Place it very close to the rod. Then take something like a crowbar, that has a fork on the end and put the fork on either side of the rod and under the visegrip. The longer it is, the easier it will be to pry. That should get it out.

Unfortunately, you have just a new rod. You could have bought the whole assembly, already put together...although it costs a bit more, you would not have to mess with the pins. It all depends what your time is worth.

To get the pins out, you will need a strong punch. I usually have most success getting them out, by putting the rod in a vise and tapping it out little by little. If you try to hit too hard, they will bend.

When putting it back together, pay attention to the direction of the push rod (#12). Take a picture of the assembly before you take it apart, then you will know which way it goes.

Reinserting the assembly will probably require that you remove the holder assembly or at least back it out a little so that the push rod will be located in front of the pin #3 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/1997/BF9.9AM SAS /PROPELLER SHAFT/parts.html.

If the assembly is removed or even just backed out, be sure to replace the o ring #22. You do not have to worry about everything flying apart...assemblies 8 and 11 come out together. Replace the o ring on the outside of the holder, make sure the surface is clean that the o ring touches inside the case.

Put the shifter rod assembly in and push the rod all the way down. Then put the prop shaft and holder in and draw it up with the two bolts. Turn the prop shaft as you do this, to be sure that the reverse gear engages the clutch dog. -Otherwise, everything will lock up.

Mike
 
Thanks, Mike. You confirmed what I was thinking.

unfortunately this motor spent a few years in salt and it was not kind. I've had precursory PB soaking on the shift bushing for a few days with a few intermittent hammer taps, and I'm not sure if it will ever budge.

Same goes for the prop shaft assembly. I don't think (without some sort of puller) she is ever going to budge either.

For now I cut a few extra turns of thread on the existing shift rod, cut off the 6-8 threads that were galled up, and will simply attempt to reinstall the adjustment barrel 1/4" lower than spec (thread lower onto both rods).

I will give a few extra days of soak and try again.
 
Cutting the treads might be the easiest way to go. If you decide to get things apart, you will probably also need to apply heat to the selected areas.

If you do get it apart after that, you will need to replace any associated seals, since they would probably be compromised from the heat.

Mike
 
I have a BF15A which is the same as the 9.9A "2000" model year. I have had my own business L & M Marine for 20 years. Retired now but still working on Honda's. The motor came with the lower unit removed as well as the shift rod and the shift rod threads are gone on the lower unit shift rod. This rod is now no longer available. Wondering if there is anyone out there that might have this part? If I can help anyone with questions, I am ok with that. Wife has breast cancer so not doing a lot of work on the outboards at the present time. I have parts for this motor also. Let me know what you need and I will see if I can help.
 
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