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1996 Merc 5.7 has problems..

Nor_Cal_Angler

New member
Hey everyone,

Well this is my first post and it isnt the way one wants to start off on a new board...lol

Hope you guys and gals can give me some advice..

Background:

Jan. I noticed my boat backfired upon initial start-up, didnt think much of it because it never did it before and I figured I was flooding the barrels...

Fished it all month and it did it to me a few times then it got worse in late Jan doing it upon start-up and after the engine was warmed (like pulling the pick to fish another location) so I placed a call to the mechanic (only one to service my motor and I do my annual every year like clockwork) we discussed various things and decided to just take it easy untill my service time in late April (every year for up comming salmon season) I did cut back my fishing trips maybe to only 2 a week but it still did it every so often.

Feb. I am out and getting ready to go in, backfire/detonation but boat starts up idles fine and I proceed to come in, about 1/2 from the head I start loosing power and rpms and about 100 yrds from the head she falls flat on her face and dies...I quickly cut the key, and tried to re-fire her up and she starts up but idle is horrible and low rpm she wants to die so I feather the throttle and get her to her slip.

Do some self diagonisis and think its fuel related....call mechanic and we decided to shelf it untill late April...

March: its killing me and I go down to the boat for some more self diagonsis...fuel cell fine, water seperator changed, fuel pump good, lines good (no leaks cracks) Carb smells like its dumping fuel and I suspect a stuck float..start it up and she starts but idles really rough...choke opens up and my idle is WAY off, she jumps REALLY HIGH from 750is increase by hand to 1000....choke opens up and idles itself to 2500 then backs off herself to 1700 then I back it down to 1000 ish and she wants to die....

May: I take it in....1 week later mechanic calls and says I was right about the carb...float stuck wide open= jet DUMPING FUEL...he sent out the carb to get the work done gets it back and bolts it on...fires up the motor and notices a haze and smoke/steam comming from PCV's...not good...decides to proceed with the annual and see whats else is there...goes to engine oil...dip stick registers normal a little low and color is consistant with someone who FISHES there boat...pulls the filter and BAMMMMM milkshake= not good....decides to check the spark plugs.....2,4,6,8 good 1,7 good 3,5 NO TIP and INSULATOR dang near burnt off....this is where he calls me and tells me the news... NO COMPRESSION on 3,5 cylinders...and the above mentioned stuff.

So I give him the ok to do the exploratory head work to find out if I have pistion damage.

Here's the question....

based upon the background info, and preliminary diagnosis what am I looking at...

I have a working knowledge of mechanics and motor properties...Best case is Valve job and machine the head with new gaskets...

now here is where I question...Mechanic (who I fully trust would not screw me) says if there is pistion damage it is better to repower with a NEW motor it isnt worth even short blocking it or fixing 3 and 5 (pistions, rings and honeing)

also which I do kinda agree with, he is saying that usually with a blown head gasket you will atleast see some compression durring the test on affected cylinders ie...20-30 but a DEAD ZERO indicates a bigger problem like pistion failure/warp cylinder walls, rings worn etc....

whats the thoughts out there....I should be getting a call tommrow when the head is opened up.

thanks

Jake
 
Ayuh,... The Valves probably look like the sparkplugs,...

Why O Why did you run it Knowing it was Detonating,..??
 
Ayuh,... The Valves probably look like the sparkplugs,...

Why O Why did you run it Knowing it was Detonating,..??

Your absolutly right about running it "Knowing" it was detonating...problem is if I knew it was actively detonating I wouldnt have, the origional symptoms were a simple backfire, that I figured at the time was due to a small flood of the cyninder by ME priming the carb. (you know pumping the throttle one to many times)

about the time I suspected a "REAL" carb issue I pretty much shelved the boat, only ran into the serious problem when I lost power on the return trip.

Hind sight is 20/20 and if I thought that it was more than just a flooding of the carb by me, I would not have ran it after the initial backfire.

How was the head gasket between 3 & 5?

I dont know yet, I will ask, the boat went in on 5/7/10 initial work done the following Monday, initial carb diagonosis that day..it was sent out and came back 05/13/10 and put back on the next day 05/14/10 where the rest of the issues reared there head upon continuation of the annual service...he called me that day Fri, 05/14/10 to get the ok to do the head tear down and started yesterday I should get a call today and will ask what 3/5 looked like....

why do you ask...

Thanks

Jake
 
My opinion is if two cylinders are shot the cost to repair having someone else do the work would be almost as much as replacing the entire short block with a refurbished one.

A short block typically costs in the area of ~ $1200 -$1500, maybe more or less depending on the source.

A complete refurbished long block I would say ~ 1800- $2500 again depending on the source.

If the condition of the heads is determined to be bad and in need of replacement then a long block will be needed.

Unless you can afford a BRAND NEW long block ~ $3000-$5000 just for the engine I would stick with a rebiult one.

The desicion is yours but I have replaced several refurbished long blocks at a total cost of under $3000 with all parts and labor.
 
Ayuh,... Not to argue, But,...
A short block don't help tuliped Valves...

Ayuh, I think your pointing out the obvious...we already know the top is gonna get done... head gasket is TONY DUNGEE...so that beggs the question...have you ever heard of a head job where valves wernt done or at a minimum at least gone over with a fine tooth comb???? Also he did mention and I agree if the head is toooooooo far gone a long block will be needed

I believe he was referencing the fact that to repair 2 cylinders versus the cost of short blocking is negligible, thus just short block it...or go one further and long block with a referb....

my pocket book at this time will not support a NEW motor...and if you think i can get away with a warrentied long block for those prices, it might be worth it.

didnt get a call today like I thought I would, sorry guys no new info...but thanks for the info.

Kghost...any references on those prices???

Jake
 
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If you feel a refurbed block is the way to go then you need to do some internet reasearch. I live on the other coats so my reccomendations are not viable.

Craigs list,
Do a google search for replacement marine engines.

I have had to do the same several times here in the past.
 
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