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1996 88hp spl (E88TSLEDR) Lower Unit

B

BWnewp

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I am very much a novice and all the work I have done on my outboards has been based on omc/seloc guides and YouTube videos. I can’t find any diagrams that clearly shows what should be done to this area under my water pump gasket.

it’s chalky and looks like corroded aluminum. Some diagrams make it look like it should be completely open. Before I replace water pump, should I clean this out completely and leave open or should I clean it and fill with aluminum/epoxy? Or neither? 0F9F74C7-B585-4051-8239-325BF08515B7.jpegDA58822A-9B61-44DC-9C12-0F549D6CF476.jpeg
 
Umm... Not certain I understand.. But I am certain you should put your driveshaft bearing housing and seals back in before you do the water pump...
 
Based on what I see ( shim appearance ) you need to inspect the upper bearing !-----Any water in the gear oil ?-----I think that chalky stuff is the least of your issues.
 
Yes, I had water in gear oil when I went to change in the fall. That’s why I dropped lower unit to check the oil seals and replace the impeller etc. the oil seal on the driveshaft definitely failed as you suspected, I have replaced it and the o rings.

the chalky stuff I mentioned is circled below.
2DFBFEEC-A344-482B-BB32-260E64AF3DAA.jpeg
 
How much water ??------On a 1988 model with what I see you need to turn the lower unit upside down.----Let the upper bearing fall out.---Inspect it.---Don't lose the shims.-----Install a complete lower unit seal kit ( propshaft seals , shift rod o-ring ) etc.----That white powder is the least of your concern !
 
Thanks, I should clarify that pulling the prop shaft carrier and replacing the seals are all on the list to do before we go back in the water. Have the complete seal kits on hand. Replacing the shift rod rings and cover as well.

I didn’t find any sitting water, just milky gear oil when I drained it.

appreciate your help here. When you say least of my concerns, after I replace all the seals and rings on lower unit, should I ignore the white stuff? It’s hard to the touch, but it will crumble off and turn to powder. Just hoping to address whatever this is before putting it all back together.
 
Once things are resolved, you should use some hydrochloric or better yet sulfuric acid (drain cleaner) to eat away and clean the aluminum trichloride away. Next, bathe with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to stop the cleaning......then your down to the real aluminum again. Then you can make sure that you have a good surface to adhere to, whether you weld it.....I would mig it with 4043 alloy......but you can shape in some Marine tex or JBWeld. Then file and grind the area to it's original shape. Next I might clean with a rinse of acetone, blow dry, then prime with zinc chromate. But that's only if you want it to last another 10 or 20 or even 30 years.
Now you know why I've been working for myself for the last 47 years. Ha!
 
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