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1996 35 hp evinrude triple

S

southshore

New member
Hi,

I'm brand new and joined for the above reason.
Purchased last week with the caveat, it is having ignition problems.
Motor has 3 new coils and plug wires and a new water pump. Oil injection is long gone.
Warms up and goes to full throttle for less than 30 seconds then goes to limp mode or at least slows down to like having a 4 horse at full throttle. Will shut off here and there but restarts immediately. Sometimes jumps back to full throttle for only a second or two then repeats the process.
Water pump is pissing out water like a laser beam. My local dealer says that doesn't mean the stat is working properly.
Read lots of crazy trouble shooting opinions on a few forums but you folks seem to be the most level headed.
Model# E35RMLEUR 1996 Manual start. Only wires leaving the cowl are to a push button shut off on the console.

Funny enough, the dealer in the town where I picked up the boat and motor privately, wanted to swap out a 20 hp merc with the vendor. Vendor said he didn't care if he sold the whole package to me or did the swap with the dealer. He just wanted to get away from the Evinrude.
Dealer was pissed at him when he sold to me. He had a used power pack.

Thanks in advance.

Dan
 
Report the values of a compression test.----------Test run with a timing light and report what happens to spark when motor falters.-------Test on all cylinders.-----------Possibly test run with a known to be good tank and hose.
 
Thanks racerone.
Will test compression as that is within my realm. The mechanic I bought from said he got 120 across all three. Did this before he swapped out all 3 coils and plug wires.
The timing light is beyond what I can or have the time to do. Will look around for a decent marine mechanic. Will try the tank and hose swap as well.

Regards,
Dan
 
???-------You would observe the flashing light when out on the boat.--------------If the light flickers you have ignition problems.------You would then report to your mechanic which cylinder / s are acting up.
 
IF, and I say IF, it is going into limp/ S.L.O.W mode, it is because it thinks it is overheating.
That temp switch is on the head, with a tan wire leading from it.
First, be sure it is actually NOT OVERHEATING.
Then simply disconnect the tan wire.

Trial run.
 
Daselbee,

Thanks. I am going to check the stat when I next have time. If it's OK, I will disconnect heat sensor.
Will also follow racerone's advice with a compression test etc. See if I can lay my hands on a timing light.

regards
 
daselbee said:
IF, and I say IF, it is going into limp/ S.L.O.W mode, it is because it thinks it is overheating.
That temp switch is on the head, with a tan wire leading from it.
First, be sure it is actually NOT OVERHEATING.
Then simply disconnect the tan wire.

Trial run.
Click to expand...

I pulled the thermostat but haven't done anything else yet.
Dumb question....Pretty sure my old 10 seahorse didn't have a stat. Why do they put stats in them? Can I pull this one out and run it without??
Other than that, it comes apart in pieces I notice and I don't know how to test.
Would be simple to run it without and if it goes to limp, then unplug the sensor and retest.
Wires from sensor to female plug end are tan/blue stripe and white/black stripe. Assuming I can just unplug it.

Dan
 
Ran it without the thermostat. Ran it with the sensor unplugged and it quit after a minute or so. Same deal, runs wide open no problem then quits and easily restarts.
Notice the water discharge stream is weaker without the stat in.
Running rough when I took it out of the water tonight. Top two plugs seemed pretty wet. Wouldn't open up again.
Still taking the mechanic's word for the compression.
When it shuts down it's like a switch.
 
I did one of those motors a couple of years ago.
There are a few gotchas with them.

First off, the pistons are not available aftermarket. The only source is Evinrude, and they want 140 bucks for each one.
In my case, it was the 25 horse, only one OS piston size made, and each one was 180 bucks!!!
My point is the parts prices are high.

Secondly, the bores are so small that I had a hard time finding anyone that had the equipment to bore the block.
You might be luckier.
 
Thanks,
I'll pull the head off.
Shame 'cause it went to full throttle every time till I pulled that sensor plug off once and blew it up. They don't cool without the stat in it seems.
 
southshore said:
Thanks,
I'll pull the head off.
Shame 'cause it went to full throttle every time till I pulled that sensor plug off once and blew it up. They don't cool without the stat in it seems.
Click to expand...

What???!!! Of course they cool with the stat out.

I told you to be sure it was not overheating.....I see nowhere posted that you did that. I see you took thermo out, no one suggested you do that.
Two ways to simply check if an OB is overheating.....put your hand on the head, and you should be able to hold it there til a count of four before you remove it.
Second, use a laser temp gun to read the actuals.

Disconnecting the sensor will not "blow up" your motor IF you were OK temp-wise.
 
Pulled the head.
Some very minor scoring based on my own experience. I've seen worse on lawnmower engines that ran like a top. Bottom cylinder couldn't see any. Still see the cross hatch on all cylinders.
Get my wife to post a pic or two when she comes home as I'm a techno 'tard/dinosaur.

Does this thing have a decompression on manual start? Couldn't find one that was obvious.

Some red high temp sealant around the head and the o rings were intact.
All head bolts were evenly torqued. Middle cylinder head was noticeably blacker than the rest but not the plug.
 
With such low compression numbers but normal looking cylinder walls,(minimal scoring as in nothing that catches a fingernail) what's up? I was certain I had cooked it.
Either there's a compression release with manual start, or I have a bad compression tester, or I tested incorrectly.....warped head but would show some blow by around o rings.


Also, head reinstall and bolt torquing instructions??
 
Is there a small hole in the cylinder wall ?-----------That would lead to a lower compression reading while cranking ( manual or electric ).----------This hole makes for smoother idling and a quiter motor.--------Rings may be stuck in the ring grooves as well.--------The head is warped , they all are after years of warming up and cooling..-------I can not recall an outboard head that I took off that was still flat !!------------Check all electrical grounds on the ignition coils and powerpack.--------------Run with a timing light and see what happens to the flashing light when motor falters.
 
Last edited:
racerone said:
Is there a small hole in the cylinder wall ?-----------That would lead to a lower compression reading while cranking ( manual or electric ).----------This hole makes for smoother idling and a quieter motor.--------Rings may be stuck in the ring grooves as well.--------The head is warped , they all are after years of warming up and cooling..-------I can not recall an outboard head that I took off that was still flat !!------------Check all electrical grounds on the ignition coils and powerpack.--------------Run with a timing light and see what happens to the flashing light when motor falters.
Click to expand...

OK thanks Racerone,

Yes there is a small hole in each cylinder wall.

Ok, still unsure about retorque of head bolts. ie, order, cold, warm torque specs etc. It's sitting with everything finger tight.
 
Are you working on this fine motor and no factory manual, yes or no?------At any rate cylinder head screws are to be torked to 180 / 204 INCH-LBS.---Start in the middle and work out to # 1 and # 3
 
Ok it's been a couple weeks or so.
Don't know why, a motor that is supposed to read 120 over all three cylinders can read 70 across all three and run like a top.
Pulled the head as mentioned previously because I thought I blew it up, but the scoring was minor. Replaced the stat, reassembled and torqued the head bolts as per instructions.
Used my neighbor's gas tank and hose, as I know it works on his 15.
Ran it at half throttle for about 6 or 7 minutes. Put my hand on the head and was able to keep it there almost indefinitely. (I'm in the restaurant business and burn my hands on stuff regularly so can hold a hot plate that most people can't.) Peeing out lots of water.
Went to higher throttle and it shut off like a light switch. Restarted and ran crappy after that no matter what.
Had my daughter take the wheel. Stepped back and pulled the middle plug wire (3 cyl 35 hp 1996)....It shut right off.
Restarted with all the plug wires back on. Throttled up a little but no response. removed the top wire and no difference. Replaced. Same again. Removed the bottom wire and no difference. Replaced. Same again. She was running on middle cylinder only.
Throttled back and gave the side of the power pack a love tap with the canoe paddle handle and she took off. Not sure if both cylinders lit up or just one because the condition didn't stay long enough to check it.
Tried it again but forgot to throttle back first and *%$#@ing near went over the transom when it woke up. It's a fast little motor on a 14' when it runs right.

Unless someone tells me different, I'm going to order a new power pack @$539 Canadian $$ and possibly go boating. Local dealer told me to reinstall it with a couple washers underneath the mounts to keep it a little further away from the heat. Only problem is no guarantee it won't do the same thing and fry the power pack.

Dan
 
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