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1996 25 3cyl gets warm no spark

M

Mattd

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Hey threre everyone first time on here but was hoping to answer my question. I have a 1996 evinrude that shuts down once it's gotten to normal operating temp...when it Shuts down ithas no spark on all three cylinders. Wait 5-10 mins and will start up. Coils look mint and no visual damage on any electrical components including connection. Does this sound like stator or Cdi. I've had to replace both once before about 6 years ago. Thanks Also runs great before shuts down.
 
It sounds like a stator starting to melt down or fail in some other manner. A failing stator (without going into a long drawn out explanation) when cold, will usually provide the AC voltage needed by the powerpack capacitor, required to energize the powerpack... BUT... when hot, a voltage drop will take place within the stator, resulting in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition.

This may not be your problem but it's possible.
 
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Hey thanks for the reply. In your opinion you don't think the power pack could act the same way when it heated up if there was something wrong inside of it.
 
What type of battery are you using? Did you replace the regulator when you replaced the stator? Sounds like the common overcharging system burning up the stator. Disconnect the yellow wires going to the regulator and see if the problem goes away. Using a maintenance free gel type battery overworks the charging system and it snowballs to the ignition when the stator overheats.
 
Mattd said:
Hey thanks for the reply. In your opinion you don't think the power pack could act the same way when it heated up if there was something wrong inside of it.
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No I don't, and if it is, it'll be the first one.

(EDIT) - I just read your last post (below) where you mention this has happened before... If you don't have a voltage meter installed, I suggest you do so as that would warn you of excessive voltage being applied to the battery (over charging etc).
 
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I did try unplugging the rugulator and the same problem existed. I'm not sure about the battery but I do know it's still the same battery I had the last time this happened. Could this be battery related? I'll have to see exactly what battery I have when I get off work. Also last time this happened motor was completely dead both stator and Cdi were completely inoperable as for now it just seems to die when gets warm.
 
The proper way to diagnose the system is with a DVA adaptor none of the parts are really cheap. Thats why it is important to confirm proper operation after any repairs are done. Adding a volt meter is a good upgrade so you can monitor the charging system and shut it down before any expensive repairs are necessary.
 
Yes I totally agree. I can't get it in for a month and I didn't want to wait if I can figure out myself. I don't have a DVA...last time I had both tested by the shop and said they were cooked and they were right. The only explanation the offered was lightning. Lol. I have a hard time believing it got hit twice although that is my luck sometimes.
 
I would really like to know what's causing this. That's a great suggestion to use voltage Meter as i would love to know the cause. Keep in mind this happened over 5 years ago and a lot of hours on motor since last problem.
 
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Hey everyone quick update... Motor acted exact same way when stator swapped with known working stator. I'm I the first one? Anyways guess the CDI is messed.
 
Something I've encountered a number of times worth mentioning as follows:

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.
 
Awesome info joe. I went out and did a quick check and found voltage .004 at the Cdi .. 0 when key off and .004 when key on. I'll take apart that switch tommrow and follow through on the rest of the steps you outlined.. Not sure if this matters when testing but there is a dash sensor which indicates a few things like low oil, water tenp and check engine. Should I be eliminating that too. Thanks again
 
It has been my experience that electrical things are a " black art " to some folks.-----I have the factory manual for these 3 cylinder motors and have a number of these motors on hand for rebuilding.------I can not type out detailed instructions , sorry.
 
Ahh Kk no prob. I too have the manual for this motor. It's not helping. By the sounds of it if you have quite a few of these motors that tells me that 1 they break down a lot or 2 you having a hard time fixing them.
 
Mattd said:
Awesome info joe. I went out and did a quick check and found voltage .004 at the Cdi .. 0 when key off and .004 when key on. I'll take apart that switch tommrow and follow through on the rest of the steps you outlined.. Not sure if this matters when testing but there is a dash sensor which indicates a few things like low oil, water tenp and check engine. Should I be eliminating that too. Thanks again
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After you install a new switch, check that again... let me know if the voltage drops away to "0" and stays that way, and also if it cures your problem.
 
These motors come along cheap in my area !------I pick them up for parts and repair.---I get calls for the lower units as many parts are NLA or quite expensive.---And I have no problems / issues with fixing them either !!
 
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joereeves said:
After you install a new switch, check that again... let me know if the voltage drops away to "0" and stays that way, and also if it cures your problem.
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Ok so the tests came back good on the switch, which is something I been meaning to test anyway. I did thou find the voltage dropped when pulled the red plug. Which leaves the instrument gauge on the dash. It does light up when the switch turns on and each light turns off one by one. (4 lights ). The voltage spikes when lights up too 006 then 005 004 as the lights drop off but then stays steady 004. Now is this normal as the motor is equipped with sensors to have the voltage at the Cdi as you mentioned yesterday...
 
Mattd said:
The voltage spikes when lights up too 006 then 005 004 as the lights drop off but then stays steady 004. Now is this normal as the motor is equipped with sensors to have the voltage at the Cdi as you mentioned yesterday...
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Having retired back in 1991........ It's been my experience that any voltage applied to the black/yellow wire (Kill circuit) will in time destroy the powerpack. If something is incorporated within the later powerpacks to avoid that happening, I'm not aware of it.
 
joereeves said:
Having retired back in 1991........ It's been my experience that any voltage applied to the black/yellow wire (Kill circuit) will in time destroy the powerpack. If something is incorporated within the later powerpacks to avoid that happening, I'm not aware of it.
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ok thanks joe. I appreciate the help. My boat runs great again after replace computer but very weary of this happening again. I have installed a voltage meter to monitor the battery and all looks good. I'm gonna dig further into that dash gauge n try to make sure there's no issue there as yes there is still power being applied to power pack.
 
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