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1996 175 Evinrude issues

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kencraft209

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"I am having an issue with my

"I am having an issue with my 175 hp evinrude. I have replaced all of the fuel components from the line connected to the tank, up to the motor. Inside the motor i have replaced the VRO pump as well as rebuilt the float switch. The water pump was also replaced.

One issue that i have is that the motor gets over 170 once on plane and eventually dies totally. Once that has happened, it will then die at all speeds at irregular intervals. I am trying to figure out what the temp would be that would make the motor die? I am just lost now with what to do on this, any help on what to test or do would help."
 
first verify if its a fuel

first verify if its a fuel not saying your wrong but start from scratch if you get the motor to cut off pull a plug wire or two throw in a old plug "makes it easier to see " make sure they are getting spark still 170 seems ok have you checked the thermostats if there there u definetly want to keep them but it will give you a idea if there is alot of corrosion also if its getting warm and shutting off it can also be vaporlocking the fuel lines makes sure there not to close to the block these will narrow it down some good luck let us know any new info thanks zac
 
"Should have put more details

"Should have put more details on the post. I have checked the Thermos and replaced both (it was doing the same thing before i did that). I was going to get a spark tester and check that out. My only other thought was the power-pack, but i guess i would not be getting spark so ill start there.

Thanks, ill let you know."
 
"Keith,
Look up under the fly

"Keith,
Look up under the flywheel with a flashlight I don't care how bright it is
you are looking for melting varnish substance if any , You need to do a Stator and trigger test or pull the flywheel and check the trigger for cracking or melting etc."
 
"i would ck,the above,...but,.

"i would ck,the above,...but,..that is not as common a prob,as some may present!...for 75 dlrs,u can inst a new optical sensor,..however,.when a pack is repl,it is advised,..to repl both,pwr pack,and opt sensor..good advise!stators/timer bases,in a modern outboard,are very dependable.....however,..u cant overlook,any elect component,especially,..one that is totally,encapsulted,devoid,of cooling air...thats one of my,engineer,..discussions,..i would love to have."
 
engineers haha they get so

engineers haha they get so hooked on maken new stuff maken more power and better efficiency that the over look reliability and most of all ease of replacement they always think there stuff will never fail yeah again check the stuff thats easlily over looked
 
""i would ck,the above,...

""i would ck,the above,...but,..that is not as common a prob,as some may present!..."

I hear ya JWB!"
 
"So in the service manual it s

"So in the service manual it shows how to test a PP using a 10ohm 10 watt resistor from Radio Shack. I bought this the other day and hooked it up as stated. I hooked a clip to the primary lead from the PP, then one of them to the red on the volt meter and the other to the resistor which then went on to a ground on the motor. The black from the volt meter then also went to the ground. I dont know if i was doing this right or not because when i cranked the engine like it said i observed nothing. I had it set on 500W like the book said, and the most i ever got was a reading of 005. Most of the time i got nothing at all. Has anyone else used this method to test a PP and if so am i doing something wrong???"
 
"ok so upon thinking about my

"ok so upon thinking about my situation, i wanted to post everything to see if something sparked any other ideas. see below:

Motor: 1996 Evinrude E175EXEDB

So let start off with i have been working on trying to figure out this problem for about 4 months now. I had a "not so good mechanic" tell me my motor was starved of fuel and he replaced everything fuel related to include the anti-syphon valve, water seperator and filter, fuel line and ball pump, VRO and the float. Since then i have replaced the T-stats and water pump.

My problem:
The motor now starts and has no problem idling at first. I have a 10min no wake before i can get on plane and the motor get up and stays at 155-160* in that time. Once i get out and on plane, the motor will run for a while (maybe 5-10min @ 3500-4000rpm) and the shut off. Sometimes it drops back to 2k for a split sec and then dies. At this time it is somewhere around 190* from what i can tell. once stopped, I can turn the key off and back on and it starts back up with no problem.

Sometimes i can get it to run at idle up to 2k without it shutting off for 15 min and other times it takes only a few minutes. If i let it sit for a little it seems to do better, which lead me to think it was a cooling issue, but i replaced the pump and it feels like someone is shooting you with a garden hose nozzle on full blast now, so i dont think that is it??

I am just lost now. Only other then i can this of is that i have seen on other forums that the power pack can heat up and cause issues in this perticular motor, any truth to that, or could that be what it is?? hate to throw 175 buck away. Also, just want to mention that i have had another wire harness on the boat and the results were the same.

Any help from anyone would be appreciated, im at my wits end right now. I almost want to sell the boat!???!"
 
"as I have read many times on

"as I have read many times on this board, the strenght of the water squirting out of the motor is not a great indicator if it is actually circulating through the motor properly.

I recently had a similar problem on a '91 power pack, except it wouldn't run right until it warmed up enough. I bit the bullet and replaced the pack, and presto, ran like a champ."
 
"What are your compressions?

"What are your compressions?
The first paragraph of your problem sounds just like the old "lean seize up" problem.
A piston is running lean, heats up, expands in the cyl, and the friction causes the engine to die.

The lean condition is caused by a carb problem on the affected cylinder. Also, 190 is way too hot.
My '96 200 looper engine runs at 145-150.

I would double check compressions, and if you find problems there, pull the head for visual inspection.

I truly hope I am wrong in my opinion here...that is an expensive fix. Good luck."
 
"Doug,

So i guess thank Go

"Doug,

So i guess thank God you are wrong. The compression is 105,105,105,105,110,105 respectfully. Manual says as long as they are within 15psi of each other.

I tried to do the powerpack test with a 10ohm-10watt resistor and found nothing on any of the primary leads. I would think that either this is not right and something is wrong with my testing or i do actually have a bad powerpack.

Any thoughts??"
 
"Great news. No scored cyls.

"Great news. No scored cyls.
I am very pleased that it was NOT what I suspected.

Now, just what is the problem....????"
 
"Just wanted to let all know t

"Just wanted to let all know that it was the stator, which in turn messed up the PP and was causing it to miss on two cylinders. The mech also told me the timing plate went bad as well. Thanks for all input."
 
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