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1995 90hp overheat

E

ezmac

New member
"Out on the water the other da

"Out on the water the other day and although plenty of water out the telltale, got a continuous over heat horn. I put my hand under the stream and it was just barely warmer than the lake I was in. I removed the cover and had to pull both tan wires from the sensors to get the horn to stop. Both head's were too hot to touch. Replaced the water pump impeller and seals, both thermostats and the over heat problem persists with continued use over 4000 rpm's under load. It will run all day under that. I am going into the heads and replace the gaskets and water deflectors. The fishe lists a check valve but does not show where it goes or what it's function is. It is very small and looks like it plugs into the water deflector someplace. Can anyone shed some light? The book also says in one place to coat the entire gasket's with gasket sealer and in another to just apply around the water passages. Which do I do? This will be my first venture of taking the heads off and other than the obivious obstruction or bad water deflector, I don't know what to look for. I run this motor in both salt and fresh water. Model # is a e90tleor. Any input from someone who knows would be greatly appreciated. Mac"
 
Remove the spark plugs and hav

Remove the spark plugs and have a look at how they are burning and look for white soft carbon or water. Do a compression test and see what you get ( no more than 10% varience).

If you have to change the head gaskets and i would suggest if they havent been done for 5 years do them.

Replace the water deflectors and ensure all faces are clean...use omc sealer on the head gaskets and also apply the sealer to the head bolts start along the shank and stop once you have sealer on some of the thread (about 3/8")

This will prevent water and corrosion forming around the shank of the bolt.
 
"(Water Deflectors)
&

"(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
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