Logo

1994 Evinrude 225 Ocean Pro High Speed Issue

tonyboschi

New member
"I have posted on this site be

"I have posted on this site before, but I cannot remember the email address I started this account with so I can't get my old information to log in but anyhow ....

I will tell you my problem with my motor and all the things I did to it to try to fix the situation and then what I am thinking may be the problem and then perhaps someone can give me an answer.

A few months ago, my fuel primer bulb "locked up" on the tank side. The backflow valve in the primer bulb locked up and would go flat when the engine was running, at both idle and high speed. I could not get any gas to go thru the fuel line until I hit the valve in the primer bulb with a screw driver handle. I was about 15 miles from shore so I had to do this all the way in. It would allow gas to go thru the line sometimes for a short period of time but then the motor would stall, I would check the bulb and it would be flat again.

I replaced the primer bulb but I am still having issues with the motor. I checked the fuel pump and one of my diaphrams in the pump was torn. Easy to understand why it tore because it was TRYING to pump fuel, but the primer bulb would not let any fuel flow thru the line. I replaced both the pump diaphrams and totally rebuilt the fuel pump.

The boat takes off and gets on plane, but after about 100 yards, the boat "bogs down" like it is being starved for fuel.

I checked EVERYTHING from the fuel tank including the gas inlet, the gas vent, the pickup in the tank, I replaced all the fuel lines with 3/8" fuel line from the tank all the way to the motor. I put a new Moeller primer bulb I bought from West Marine in the fuel line. I replaced the fuel filter and checked all the fuel delivery including checking all the carbs for obstructions. The fuel flows FREELY from the tank to the motor.

Again, The boat takes off and gets on plane, but after about 100 yards, the boat "bogs down" like it is being starved for fuel.

BUT .....

If I squeeze the primer bulb when the boat is up on plane, it runs fine and will keep on running at 4500 to 5000 RPM's until I stop squeezing the primer bulb. Then it bogs down again like it is being starved for fuel.

On advice from my dealer, they told me that the primer bulb may be defective if it isn't a Quicksilver product, no matter where I bought it from as just like I experienced with the primer bulb that had the sticky inlet valve, I should buy a NEW Quicksilver primer bulb. On their advice though, I removed the primer bulb from the fuel line and spliced in a thru flow connection. The fuel pump has NO trouble pulling fuel from the tank and running the motor. I even drained ALL 6 bowls on my carbs and when I choked the motor and started it, the fuel pump pulled fuel from the tank and filled the bowls again and the motor runs no problem at idle.

But, once again, the motor gets up on plane, but after 100 yards, again, it bogs down like it is being starved for fuel.

So here are my questions, and it involves the "Fuel Vacuum Switch"

When the primer bulb went flat, is there a chance that the "Fuel Vacuum Switch" did whatever it does to save the motor from burning up, and now it is stuck, in that position, and do I need to replace the "Fuel Vacuum Switch" .. ?

Is there a "test" I can do, like remove the "fuel vacuum switch" from the fuel line to see if this is an issue or does the motor NEED the Fuel Vacuum Switch to run?

Is there something I can do to "reset" the Fuel Vacuum Switch" (Like a circuit breaker reset) ?

Is the Fuel Vacuum Switch something that can be repaired or is it an item that once it goes bad, it needs to be replaced?

I was thinking that the fuel vacuum switch may have gone bad because of the amount of time I ran the boat when the fuel primer bulb went bad and it may have killed the fuel vacuum switch, locking it into keeping my motor from running at high RPM's because it IS defective now, it may be telling my motor that there is no fuel and it is only letting me idle the motor.

I do not have a hand pump to check the Fuel Vacuum Switch so is there anything else I can do to test this...?"
 
"Fuel vacuum switch is nothing

"Fuel vacuum switch is nothing but an electric switch that sets off the alarm. It does nothing to fuel flow.
May I suggest that You hook up a pressure tester in a T-connector just after the pump. That will give an immediate answer if You are running out of fuel, if fuel pressure is too low after pump. Best is to use a glycerin filled manometer. If pressure drops below 1 PSI, You are dead!"
 
"So would that mean that even

"So would that mean that even though I bought new diaphrams for both the fuel and VRO side and rebuilt the pump, its still a useless pump?

Someone told me that they never have any luck with the fuel pump rebuild kits and its just easier to buy a new pump... is this possibly the case ?

ALSO, Is there anything I need to know about the "pulse limiter" that the pump gets its vacuum from ... Is there a way to test this to find out if its providing enough pulse to run the pump?"
 
"most shops inst new pumps rat

"most shops inst new pumps rather than rebuild,due to warped housings..pulse limiter,potentially could cause your prob,..but i very,rarely see one obstructed....like morten says,a fuel pump pressure test,is in order,..and i think u will find that,to be your problem,especially,since u have been in it....u can also run a fuel restriction test on system...but if u can pump,and it runs fine......and inst a new OMS pump on it,.asap......"
 
"I have rebuilt a lot of pumps

"I have rebuilt a lot of pumps in my time and hardly had any problems with that.However You may have to try to find out WHY the pump went down in the first place and not just replace broken parts. Air leak on suction side may kill a new air-membrane in no time, as well as a faulty pulse limiter. Even with a correct limiter and if You have crank case combustion, the membrane may go. Rebuilt or new pumps may blow.
Even a faulty thermostat, unbalanced cooling on the banks may be the culprit."
 
"I had the same issue with my

"I had the same issue with my old VRO pump, re built it and did nothing ( 100 dollars paid for rebuilt kit and it was a waste), end up buying a new fuel only VRO pump for $220 on e-bay and now I don’t have that problem, I had to pump the bulb too in order to keep my motor running (Johnson 200HP)Good luck.. lots of issues with VRO housing I would just buy a new one... My two cents..."
 
"Mate i agree with JWB good ad

"Mate i agree with JWB good advise
happy.gif
"
 
"Well the more people I talk t

"Well the more people I talk to, the more people tell me that buying the pump rebuilt kit was a waste of time. One Evinrude mechanic told me he has NO reason why Evinrude came back out with the rebuilt kits because a long time ago, the same thing used to happen, people would buy the rebuilt kits, it wouldn't work, and they would end up having to buy a new pump, which is what I am going to do this weekend.

Thanks for all the replies, its most certainly appreciated."
 
Make sure the anti-siphon valv

Make sure the anti-siphon valve is clear if the boat has a built in tank. This valve is ususally the fitting where the fuel line hooks to the tank. It can be a substantial restriction if stuck or clogged. Pumping the bulb simply helps the VRO pump overcome the restriction.
 
Back
Top