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1994-95 30 HP 2 stroke starts but won't stay running.

E

englishlaketracker

New member
Hi. My pontoon has a mid 90's Evinrude 30 HP motor. Bought it used a few years ago and gave me some problems early on but seems to have cleared up since I starting every season with 100% new gas including in the carb bowl every year. I ran the pontoon on the lake 2 weeks ago and it ran fine. Yesterday it started fine but gradually lost Rams and shut down. I put the boat in neutral, pushed the throttle forward and restarted it but it would only stay running maybe 2 seconds.
Put fresher gas in the spare tank and tried it but still the same problem. Second tank which had no gas in had moisture in it which I let dry out before I dumped gas in it.
I made sure there were no kinks or cracks in the fuel line. I unhooked gas line from the motor and depressed the ball valve and gas squirted out so it does not appear to be a fuel line problem. I see no fuel leaks on the motor. My guess it is maybe the fuel pump or fuel filter if the engine has one. Every time before I tried to restart, I would squeeze the bulb hard or my wife would squeeze it while I would crank the motor over. Sometimes the bulb was still hard and sometimes it was not.
How can I do I test the fuel pump or troubleshoot any other possible problems? We recently had a VERY heavy rain, around 10 inches since the last time I ran the motor but all covers were sealed tight so I doubt if that could have caused it. Like I said it started normal starting out but while I walked to the front of the boat to grab something it lost power and quit. Maybe it is trying to tell me to never leave the controls, even at low speed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. One more thing, squeezing the bulb while the motor is running does not help. And one more question, what is the tire valve between the fuel pump and the carb for? The model is a E30ELERM.
Thanks.
 
Last edited:
That shreader valve is on the fuel primer valve.-----------It is used to inject storage oil or engine tuner products.
 
E30ELERM = 1994 30hp Evinrude, Electric Start, Long Shaft. Are you sure that engine didn't overheat and seize up?

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(Compression & Spark Test)
(J. Reeves)

1st - Regardless of what problem one might encounter, always start with the basic troubleshooting procedure. Check the compression which should be in the range of 100+ psi (somewhat less on the smaller hp engines) and even on all cylinders.

2nd - With the spark plugs removed, rig up some type of spark tester whereas you can set a gap to be jumped. On the solid state OMC ignition systems from 1973 to the present, set the gap to 7/16". The spark should jump the gap with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real strong blue snap!

NOTE: Checking the spark via using the spark plugs is a waste of time and proves nothing. The above stated gap must be used for a proper test.

If there was no spark and If the electrical plug exists, disconnect the RED main electrical plug at the engine. Remove the s/plugs. crank the engine via the starter solenoid (jumper bat term to small 3/8" term nut, not the ground nut) and observe spark. If spark is now okay as stated above, the usual cause is a shorted ignition switch BUT that black/yellow wire could also.be shorted to ground at some point within the wiring harness.

For the later model engines where that large RED electrical plug was discontinued for updated electrical connections, find the black/yellow wire leading to the powerpack and disconnect it to run the above ignition switch/wiring harness test.

If the above checks out as it should, and the engine dies out when throttle is applied or won't idle, it is usually due to one or both of two things. The carburetors are fouled, in which case the cure would be to remove, clean, and rebuild them..... or the timer base under the flywheel is sticking which would result in a retarded spark. If the engine will not fire/start at all even though you have the proper spark and compression, it's usually due to fouled carburetors.

To check the timer base for sticking (Engine Not Running), spin the prop to align the shifter dog with forward gear and while doing so, put the engine into forward gear. Now, while watching the timer base, slowly apply throttle clear up to full throttle. The timer base should move smoothly all the way up against the black rubber cap that is attached to the end of the full advance spark setting screw. If the timer base sticks, find out why and correct that problem.

Usually any sticking of the timer base is caused by one of the four retaining clamps being slightly too tight. Putting a very thin washer under the clamp cures that problem. Some boaters use a thin screwdriver to bend the clamp upwards slightly but I prefer the thin washer. The sticking can also be caused by having a faulty stator start to melt down, resulting in a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base nylon retaining ring.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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