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1992 Evinrude ignition issue

M

Mark_Jarrett

New member
I have a 1992 Evinrude 120HP that is not firing on #1 cylinder. I have had owned and cared for this engine since new. I recently had an issue with the power pack failing when the pack warmed up. I replaced the pack and the timer base. I have rebuilt the Carbs, mainly because of Ethanol residue, and had the timing set. After all that I found the #1 cylinder not firing after quick start. The motor fires intermittently during quick start, but stops firing #1 when the idle returns to a normal state. I checked the coil, plug and wiring and found no problem with any of those items. Could this issue be related to the Tach not working? I unplugged the Tach, but it didn't solve the issue. Is there any other wiring related to the #1 cylinder that could be shorted?
Thanks for your help.
 
Double check the small electrical rubber plug assemblies. Those pins/sockets have a habit of getting pushed back whereas they do not make proper contact. Also make sure that the wires to those pins/sockets are actually still connected to the pins/sockets and they have been known to break off BUT the wire is still attached to the rubber plug via pure friction.
 
I have seen cylinders drop out exactly when QS drops out. With me, it has been #2 on a V6, but the electrical design of your powerpack and timerbase is the same as the V6.

One would think immediately "powerpack" but no, the problem was a defective timerbase.

I would suggest putting the old timerbase back in for testing this out.

Oh, and the problem has always been observed on CDI brand timerbases in my experience. Is yours blue?
 
racerone said:
Is there no spark on # 1 or is there no change when you pull the plug wire of # 1 cylinder ?
Click to expand...

I used an inductive timing light for the testing & verification of all cylinders while the motor was running. There is no spark on #1. I verified CYL's 2,3,&4 were firing. I then swapped out the #1 plug, wire, & coil with #3. #1 still did not fire and #3 looked normal.

I observed the problem after replacing the power pack and with the old timer base installed. I ran through the static tests for the timer base and the resistances were within spec, but just barely. I went ahead and replaced the timer base assuming that an intermittant problem with the timer base may be the problem. No joy.

Both the new power pack and the timer base are CDI.

I will check the rubber plug assemblies on both the power pack and the timer base and get back to you.

THANKS!
 
Well, check the rubber plugs as Joe suggests.
An intermittent wire or pin in one of the plug IS NOT consistent with a cylinder dropping out exactly when QS drops out, tho.
 
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