The engine must crank over at least 300 rpm with the electric start in order for the stator under the flywheel to energize the powerpack. A slow cranking engine will have erratic, weak, or no ignitiion.
Also... check the two coils at the rear of the stator (Ones that supply approx 300 AC volts to the pack's capacitor). If either or both of those coils are leaking/dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead area, that indicates a meltdown of the stator which results in a voltage drop. If either of those coils are leaking, replace the stator.
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That engine has the "Fast Start" feature which automatically/electronically advances the timing to obtain a fast idle when starting cold. As the engine warms up, an additional sensor (notice 2 wires on heat sensor of port cyl head) drops the idle to a normal rpm at a certain heat range. Bottom line... no need to advance the throttle to start on that engine.
I have no idea what your statement of "pump the oil primer till hard' means, however it has no business being in the start procedure. Try the following recommended starting procedure.
Pump the fuel primer bulb up hard.
Leave the throttle lever in neutral and dead idle position.
Turn the key to the START position... and push the key in and hold it there to engage the Fuel Primer Solenoid.
When the engine fires and starts, release the key.
(
Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)
The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position.
Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.
Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.
The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.
Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.
The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.
Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways.
Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.
Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.
Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.
Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.
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