Logo

1990's Mercury Mariner 8hp

Hello, I have a 1990's Mercury Mariner 8hp fully striped down right now due to the main baring failing last year and breaking the gasket, letting saltwater into the engine, seizing the piston in solid!

Anyway, I have always felt I could use a little more power from the engine and wondered what I could do to squeeze a bit more from the engine while I have it in bits anyway? I'm not sure whether the carb is the same as a 15hp, but I do know that the bore and stroke are, apart from that, I don't have any clue as to what else I could do to get more power from it. Any advice would be good, Thanks :)
 
Are you 100% sure that bore and stroke are the same !-----Look it up with your serial # right on this site.---------On some of these it shows different pistons for the 9.9 / 15 models and a different block too.
 
(this might get a little convoluted but bear with me here)

If it's a pre-1994 1/2 then you can add a couple of horses, but you can't make it a 15.

1986 thru 1994 1/2, 8 horse models shared a powerhead with the 6 and 9.9 horse models utilizing the 12.6 cubic inch "split block" aka jugghead designed and built by Yamaha exclusively for use on Merc's.

Essentially the only difference is the carb and the exhaust plate - so if it breathes in and out "better" the 8 becomes a 9.9

The 15 horse has always used the 16.0 cubic inch block and that added displacement is absolutely required to produce the 15 horses.

But to answer your question about the 15 horse carb - Yes you can bolt it on and it will fit and if you replace the exhaust plate with one from a 15 as well you will get it to run without flooding most of the time, but it will not produce 15 horse AND it will burn significantly more gas than a 9.9 - I tried it as an experiment and in a head to head (almost) between the "franken 15/9.9" and a "real" 9.9, the 9.9 actually outperformed.

(*almost in that I ran the boat with hopped up motor through a few paces then back to the dock, strapped on the real 9.9 and did it again).

In mid-1994 Merc moved the 9.9 to the 16 cube platform which had been exclusive to the 15 horse since it's (modern) inception in 1987.

They also changed the exhaust plate and water tube on all the portable models (6/8/9.9/15).

So, if you want to convert it to a 9.9, regardless of what model year it is you will absolutely have to replace the exhaust plate and since the pre-94 1/2 plates are NLA you also have to replace the water tube.

That creates a small issue if you have the earlier model in that the original water tube was just a plain old straight tube that ran from the lower unit to the front of the exhaust plate where it was fastened with a (collar) and two screws - passing through a hole in the casting of the exhaust housing about half way down the "leg".

The new style water tube is simply pressed into a grommet and has a flair about 1/2 way down that is designed to stop the tube from falling out/getting pulled out when you remove the lower unit by causing that flair (bulge in the tube) to butt up against the hole through the casting in the leg (confused yet??) - the issue is, in the earlier models the hole in the casting is a little higher than the hole in the casting in the later models.

So if you have the earlier version you need to take a long drill (that will reach at least half way down the exhaust housing) and drill out the hole a little larger to allow the flair in the water tube to pass through (what I have done to help keep the water tube from falling out, which is a pain to try and re-insert with the leg in place, is to put a grommet around the water tube "above" the hole in the casting, essentially doing the same job as the flair was designed to do.

Once you have the exhaust plate sorted out, then you only need replace the 8 horse carb with ANY of the 9.9 carbs produced between 1986 and 2012 (the 9.9 was still being produced for export from the US until 2012).

There is about 2 dozen different model numbers, mostly all the same save the last few characters (eg. 1392-8846A24 replaced 1392-8846-A8 for instance)

Now, would it be worth the money?

If your current carb is salvageable only you can judge.

Since the line has been discontinued the cost of a new carb from Merc has jumped to almost 350 bucks (although you may find a used one, there are thousands of these motors out there).

The exhaust plate, water tube and seal (if required) goes between about 60 and 130 bucks depending on whether it's a short or long shaft.

So it could cost close to 500 bucks to convert an 8 to a 9.9 if using new OEM parts - is it worth maybe 250 bucks a horse??

I can't answer that for you - but it can be done.
 
Hello, thanks for all the info, I have found the serial number today (09630672 or O963O672) not sure whether the 0's are numbers or letters!

I have also measured the bore/stroke size of my engine and found it to be a 54mm (2.13 inches) is that the normal size, as I belive that the 15/9.9's usaly have a 60mm bore? anyway, like Graham said, it would not be worth the money to add a small amount of power, so I am now just trying to find the year and details of my engine, I may try and find a 15hp carb and exsaust plate.... are there any other mods I can do in general to improve prefomance, such as opening ports up etc....? thanks again, jack
 
I think you can ignore the first "zero", the serial (which is really just a production number) is all digits in this case.

It is a 1991 Belgian model. (are you in Europe by chance??)

The small portable line by Merc were pretty sweet motors. You can't really do a whole lot to them to make them better/stronger/faster. The bottom line is, if you want more power you need to get a bigger motor.

There is nothing you can do to these, provided they are running and properly tuned, to get any "noticeable" performance increase. I have been working on these for coming on 30 years and have seen/tried just about every mod, after-market add-on, magic in a can and the results are always the same - no notable performance increase and less money in the wallet.

Very little goes wrong with these, although with a 1991 model the things you start watching for are 1) cracked coils - very fine cracks develop which are difficult to see so a good inspection is key - if required replace with Sierra aftermarket coils - they are half the price of OEM and are far superior. 2) main crank seals wear out - most often the upper - the seals are cheap and not overly difficult to change - if you have the power head pulled for any reason, do the lower "just because" - it can be picked out and the new one installed in about 5 minutes - likewise the upper can be accessed with the flywheel off, another 5 minute job 3) the intake port gasket - not the one at the reed cage, but the one under the transfer port cover back near the (head which isn't a head) on the starboard side of the motor - again, a couple buck gasket that blows out about once every 20 years.

The rest of the ignition is near bullet-proof and rarely fails. The carbs are awesome - keep it clean and run fresh fuel and it will run for ever - just all round excellent little motors that require minimal maintenance to keep running forever.
 
Hi Graham, yes I am in Europe (England)! Thanks for finding the year of my motor out, I was surprised to find out that it was 1991 as my guess from the colour scheme had been around 1998! (Only 7 years out!) also, I am going to get a full gasket set for this rebuild and do the full job, and hopefully keep it running without vany rebuilds for a while! And I did have trouble with one of the coils last year at sea, dropping it onto one pot at low revvs, so it looks like I will be getting some new coils for it as well! And I have to agree with you that these are pretty sweet motors, the 8 currently runs around 23 mph on my boat (Zodiac CS310)
But it does tend to rev out to 6000 rpm and feel like its not putting its most out, although changing props has been a little of an art from my experience, too much and its worse than before, and too little and it makes no worthy change for the cost of a prop! I have found a stainless 3-blade prop that is a couple of steps up from the stock Ali prop, would anyone risk trying it?!

Thanks again, Jack
 
Last edited:
Back
Top