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1990 55 HP Mariner

J

jhuppman1

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"Looking for suggestions relat

"Looking for suggestions related to a 1990 55 HP Mariner which started at the ramp and idled out of no wake zone. Boat got right up on plane then sputtered a bit and lost power. It kept running but wouldn't accelerate after that. Oddly while the motor was running the power trim would not operate, but did operate when the motor was shut down. Motor was re-started approx 6-8 time in trying to diagnose problem, then Battery was completely dead without warning. Also noticed the depth finder was fading in and out the whole time. Re-started motor with deep cycle battery and went back to ramp. All three plugs are getting spark and carbs seem to getting plenty of fuel.
Any chance this could be an electrical problem?"
 
"Joe, off the top of my head i

"Joe, off the top of my head it sounds like your battery(s) were dead or dying. Have you charged them up and tried again? Is there any chance something was left on to drain the batteries? Doesn't sound like you had enough power to run depth finder,trim, and motor at the same time."
 
"I'm hoping that's all

"I'm hoping that's all it is. Fairly basic two battery system, both relatively new but, left connected on the trailer for a couple of weeks. Cold Start battery for starting, power trim etc..... and deep cycle for trolling motor, bilge pump and accessories. They have separate wire harnesses, but I don't know if overlap connection anywhere on the harness.
Used boat (Smokercraft) no schematics.
Both batteries are re-charged and putting out approx 12.6, I will need check them to make sure make sure output is better when hooked up to the running motor. Also, now know I need to dis-connect when not in use.
Thanks for the feedback."
 
"After charging batteries and

"After charging batteries and re-connecting everything, it seems that DC voltage is 12.5 on the Starting Battery and 12.76 on the Deep Cycle with the engine running and without.
Is there a good way to determine if this means the Stator or the Switch Box is not re-charging the batteries?"
 
"Joe, there was two possible c

"Joe, there was two possible charging systems on your particular model. Either a simple rectifier (3 post black square) or a regulator rectifier (a box with two yellow, two reds and a gray wire with bullet connectors on the end).

Whichever it is you have, it's shot most likely.

It is possible that the charging portion of your stator is bad, however, it would be more common to have an issue with the rectifier/regulator.

A simple continuity test between the two yellow leads from the stator (disconnected from everything else) would confirm the stator is ok..."
 
"Thanks for the quick feedback

"Thanks for the quick feedback.
I checked to parts diagram, doesn't appear to a big job changing out the regulator rectifier once I rule out the Stator.
Is there a continuity test that I can do on the regulator rectifier (looks like I have the 3 post black square)"
 
"Joe, if you test between the

"Joe, if you test between the two yellow leads (they can not be connected to anything), with the ohm meter set to R x 1 ohm you are looking for a reading of between 0.17 and 0.19 (or there abouts) - the bottom line is "minimal" resistance, or if you like, near complete connectivity.

You can test each individual yellow lead to any ground (on the powerhead - a bolt would be a decent spot). You should have NO continuity between either yellow lead and ground - if you do there is a short somewhere...."
 
"Thanks again.
Boat is parked

"Thanks again.
Boat is parked at the marina so I won't be able test until the weekend, but looks like something I can resolve either way the continuity check works out."
 
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