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1990 25 johnson with electrical problems/blackout when hot

thepelell

New member
hi from italy, i bought a used boat with a 1990 BJ25DEL electric start motor.
After the first days of use with no troubles, all of a sudden , one sunday afternoon at 6pm i went to start the motor after a 1 hour stop, and turning the key had absolutely no effect at all. Instruments didn't move, and obviously engine would not start. I had another battery with me, so i tried exchanging it, but to no avail.
Next day, a local mechanic looked at engine and found main fuse was shot. Replaced, and i had another 3 or 4 outing without troubles.
Then one afternoon, while i was cruising, i noted that the voltmeter and tach were indicatining complete nonesense, moving out of scale (voltmeter usually at 10 , tach all over the place). I got back to the marina, turned the engine off, and when i went to restart I had a complete blackout again, as if battery was not connected. I checked the fuse and it was ok.
Next day the same local mechanic was around and fiddled with the main battery external switch, which was bypassed.
It seemed to work, but,in the next outings, I would see the voltmeter give low voltage reading, then all of a sudden go to 13-14v, then go back again to 10 (all at the same engine rpm). This happens always when the engine is hot, usually in the afternoon. First trip of the morning every thing always seems fine.
I had another mechanic take a look at the motor, he tested the rectifier with a test bulb while i was starting the motor and said the rectifier wasn't giving anything in output and should be replaced, but as long as i had a good battery i could still use the motor.
Today after a perfect morning with tach and voltmeter indicating correctly,i went back to marina at noon. At 15.30 i went out again and as soon as i started motor, tach and voltmeter were all over the place. After 10 mins trip the tach was below 0 and voltmeter below 10. I reached my swimming spot, shut down the engine (which was working flawlessly). then when i went to restart... total blackout again. Had to get a tow back to the marina.
In summary:
-when running, the engine has no problem at all, I have all the power and doesn't misfire.
- i've never had problems in the morning, cold start. Problems have always arised in afternoon-hot days and motor.
- when instruments go mad with the motor running, I am almost certain that when I turn it off i want get any signs of life at the restart
- In the past days, when in the morning voltmenter was giving ok reading, the tach howevere would stay at 1000 rpm when i turned engine off. Only with the key in the ON position, would it go to 0.
- Battey has never given signs of being drained. Today I measured 12.8v, now I have replaced the battery andwill see with electronic charger how many amps i need to recharge in the battery I have used so far.
- when i left the boat this evening, I had no signs of life from instruments of motor when turning the key , but checking with multimeter on rectifier junction box, I did measure 12v on the red wire when turning the key ON position, and 0v with keu in OFF.
Even if my rectifier is bad, I don't understand why i get these blackouts... I have an electronics diploma, I know my stuff with Dc voltage, so i am willing to try and figure out whats wrong, from the schematics I have found , I think I need to check the big red multi pole connector that may be acting strange when hot, and I am also not sure if the neutral switch could be responsible for not giving ok signal.
Any ideas? Sorry for long post, but I wanted to give max information.
 
Clean all electrical connectors with electric cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. Sand all grounds metal to metal including components that use the mount as a ground. Intermittent faults are normally wireing related giveeverything a good once over and see if it cures the issue. Disconnect the battery before messing with the ignition switch it takes a split second shorting the kill wire to battery pos to cook the powerpack.
 
ok thanks, i will go through all cables tomorrow if weather permits. Is there an emergency procedure I can use to start the motor if it happens again in the middle of the lake? I know you can wind a rope on flywheel to pull start, but I suppose without contact from ignition switch it won't start.
 
Just turn the ignition switch on then pull the rope it does not need power to run the engine the ignition is totally separate from the charging system. The ignition switch just shorts the ignition to ground to kill the motor.
 
today managed to check and clean all connections as suggested.
-Main battery connectors were greyish and opacque, now they are nice and shiny..
-bolt holding the GND cable on motor was quite easy to unscrew. Cleaned connections and tightened it.
- My rectifier has a bad (open) fase.. other 2 are ok

Put on a freshly charged 80Ah battery and motor started good, with tach and voltmeter working good (even if the broken fase on the rectifier is the one where grey cable for tach is connected, this means the stator is giving impulses that simply go nowhere since the diodes are open).
Only thing a bit strange is a quite high voltage reading once i go over 2000 rpm, the instrument goes almost at 16. Next time i will check with multimeter real voltage on battery and on instrument while running. Hope new rectifier arrives soon.
Here is pic of voltmeter at 2500 rpm:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4YqFq-Hfd7gN3JRZTc3OG41cGNaM1g1RVEzcUxSTWNqYVA0
 
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