Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1989 evinrude 88spl intermitant cylinder drop

R

ROLLIE6603

New member
Dear Sirs, I am new to this forum so first let me say Happy New Year and hello. I have been having an intermitant cylinder/electric drop one cylinder for some time now. I have replaced all four coils/new plugs and wires/power pack and ALWAYS run startron/seaform at all times. When the engine is running well I can grab the linkage and rev the engine like a two stroke dirt bike engine. After it runs for awhile it drops a hole, I can hear it and see it. I can't figure out what could be causing this. Fresh gas, rev's to the moon, idles good and then starts the intermitent cylinder drop. My battery was charged but does not seem to have a good amp rating, what am I doing wrong.
Thanks in advance.......:confused:
 
Throwing parts at it is not the correct approach !--------One step at a time and report the results of a compression test.
 
racerone said:
Throwing parts at it is not the correct approach !--------One step at a time and report the results of a compression test.
Click to expand...

I don't think I was throwing parts at a motor that I bought "rebuilt" in 1996, I had a mobile mechanic look at her and he found a bad coil so I replaced them all. The plugs are changed every year anyway and the plug wires are from 1996 and where starting to loose their solid snap/feel at the plug connection so all of these things needed to be change anyway based on their age IMHO. I did notice there is a round silver part that mounts on the starbord side of engine with wire's going into a fuse/terminal strip that was boiling hot to the touch compaired to the rest of the engine. I don't think I have a carb problem because when all holes are firing the throttle response is great.This has been a very reliable motor over its time with me I'm just trying to learn more and avoid a costly mobile mechanic bill.
 
Last edited:
Rectifier is super hot when running, looks like its an oem part from 1989, don,t know it this could make the engine drop a cylinder intermitantly, but my tach should start to work again.
 
Well, post #3 has a lot more information about your motor than post # 1 ---------More trouble shooting is required.
 
the rectifier will be hot...in fact it needs the motor as a heat sink...it will not cause a cylinder drop..the only thing it does is feed the tach and maintain the charge on the battery..
i would do as racer recommends and check the compression and the spark...the spark should be jump 7/16 inch with a real snap... get back to us on this...the motor is 25-26 years old...
you can use a timing light to find out if its a fire problem or a fuel problem... this is a quick check and i use an inductive timing light...move it from one plug wire to another and take a look at them all for any drop...
the pin connector for the timer base is a problem on these motors...first of all a pin can back out and make tip to tip connection...can be a big time intermittent..2nd is a bad connection of the pins and receptacles in this connector to have problems...recrimp will fix that if there is no corrosion...
 
Rollie.... Even if the engine was running on two cylinders, the engine would rev up fairly acceptable if in neutral or in gear if running on a flushette, HOWEVER... I strongly suggest that you DO NOT take part in this practice as you are inviting a runaway engine. If this takes place, the engine will continue to run faster and faster even with the key turned to OFF (dieseling). By the time you figure out how to stop the engine, connecting rods will be flying out the side of the crankcase.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gapped at either .040 (original recommended gap OR .030 (revised gap of the late 1990's). One or the other may provide improved performance it idle or full throttle (varies from engine to engine).

Your problem requires the following trouble shooting procedure:

Run the engine until the problem rises, then..............

Remove all spark plugs... check the compression of the individual cylinders. What are the individual psi readings of those four cylinders?

With the spark plugs still removed, rig a spark tester (available at auto part shops, or build the following) whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump. THe spark should jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Describe what you find in detail. Note that the gap is extremely important!

To ignore the above trouble shooting procedure is to return to playing a guessing game and chance to luck.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Last edited:
After installing a new Sierra brand made in USA rectifire, has turn my 88spl into the smoke spittin hi reving 2 stroke she used to be. And there is NOTHING like the sound of a V4 2 stroke Evinrude when she reaches 4200 rpm, my little animal is back. Here are pics of the old rectifire which was so burnt the wires where exposed between the pot gel and the wire sheathing. The first image is the NEW rectifire and the second image is the OLD rectifire that had got so hot over the years the pot gel was sticking out of it's housing. Parts guy said I should have had problems along time ago. She is spittin and growling like a V4 should..:cool:




Photo0491.jpg






Photo0492.jpg
 
Last edited:
joereeves said:
Rollie.... Even if the engine was running on two cylinders, the engine would rev up fairly acceptable if in neutral or in gear if running on a flushette, HOWEVER... I strongly suggest that you DO NOT take part in this practice as you are inviting a runaway engine. If this takes place, the engine will continue to run faster and faster even with the key turned to OFF (dieseling). By the time you figure out how to stop the engine, connecting rods will be flying out the side of the crankcase.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gapped at either .040 (original recommended gap OR .030 (revised gap of the late 1990's). One or the other may provide improved performance it idle or full throttle (varies from engine to engine).

Your problem requires the following trouble shooting procedure:

Run the engine until the problem rises, then..............

Remove all spark plugs... check the compression of the individual cylinders. What are the individual psi readings of those four cylinders?

With the spark plugs still removed, rig a spark tester (available at auto part shops, or build the following) whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump. THe spark should jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Describe what you find in detail. Note that the gap is extremely important!

To ignore the above trouble shooting procedure is to return to playing a guessing game and chance to luck.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
Click to expand...

Thank you Joereeves for your insite and expertise. I have NEVER experienced dieseling with this motor. my plugs are Champion QL77JC4 as you suggested and they are gapped at .035 again this V4 has NEVER dieseled and is now running great.:)
 
Last edited:
I don't know why I bother anymore Boobie... I'd go into stiud service if I could figure out how to live on $4 a week. :)
 
joereeves said:
I don't know why I bother anymore Boobie... I'd go into stiud service if I could figure out how to live on $4 a week. :)
Click to expand...

I am sorry Mr. Reeves that finding a melted rectifier, replacing it and cleaning all electrical contacts has made my engine run well. THE fact that I DID NOT follow your list of things to try was because it was posted on this forum AFTER the problem had been fixed which has obviously annoyed you:rolleyes:. I am going fishing tomorrow morning and will let you guys know how she ran.
Thanks again for all the suggestions
 
Hopefully your motor runs well.------------Advice was being given by folks here with a combined experience of over 100 years of work on these motors.---You seemed to have your own plan !----------Me thinks you will not get much response should you have further problems.
 
racerone said:
Hopefully your motor runs well.------------Advice was being given by folks here with a combined experience of over 100 years of work on these motors.---You seemed to have your own plan !----------Me thinks you will not get much response should you have further problems.
Click to expand...

Last time I checked, telling a guy "why do I bother'' referring to another member is not advice, its a personal shot, childish and demeaning.While guys with thousands of post counts on any forum usually have a superiority complex, I did not expect that here.Remember this condition just started with my engine and I guess I got lucky with the parts change and clean-up. I have already thanked everyone, if that gets me Black listed I guess I will put that under the oh-well colum..
 
Last edited:
I'm just going to wait and see what happens with the motor and not get excited. Time will tell...................
 
Good morning Gents, just a little update on my V4, we launched at 8am yesterday looking to get a few hours in fishing before the big blow/front arrived. The engine started right up and ran flawlessly, we ran 4 miles to our spot and 4 miles back to the ramp 0 issues. At one point the wind as predicted got up over 20mph out of the southeast so I had to throttle back and trim the motor up then apply just enough throttle to push the bow up just so we would not get a bath. I dont really like running my motor at 2300rpm overtrimmed but I had no choice in that matter, not a peep out of her. We got home washed and flushed the motor for 10 minutes she sounded great. On another note I was kicking around this forum and noticed alot of guys dont like penzoil 2 stroke oil and then I remembered I just finished using a gallon of that stuff, so I am taking everyones word for it looking to switch oils immediately, any suggestion would be greatly apriciated. oh yeah I forgot,------8 trout and 2 flounder.....
 
Good job gettin her runnin. Atta boy! Whatever you did, you did right.

Fwiw these motors will fool you from time to time. Isn't always the textbook solution to a problem. Well, technically, it is. But sometimes there are other variables thrown in to confuse you. I know ...

Not to sound like a smart ass or 'know it all'. And not that it really matters much anyway. In manuals from '88 on OMC specifies the spark from a V4 should jump 1/2". But what's a 1/16th of an inch between friends ...
 
Last edited:
71V153 said:
Good job getting her running. Atta boy! Whatever you did, you did right.

Fwiw these motors will fool you from time to time. Isn't always the textbook solution to a problem. Well, technically, it is. But sometimes there are other variables thrown in to confuse you. I know ...

Not to sound like a smart ass or 'know it all'. And not that it really matters much anyway. In manuals from '88 on OMC specifies the spark from a V4 should jump 1/2". But what's a 1/16th of an inch between friends ...
Click to expand...

Thanks to all for your input. I think I am going to drain the bowls and see what comes out. I have always used seafoam but I would like to see. At the end of the day I really cant complain about this oil-n-gas-smoke spitting V4, I bought her in 1996 as a fresh rebuild and put it on my New in 1996 18ft SD Stump Jumper Flats boat and she has pushed many folks around for many years, I just have to decide on the 2 stroke oil thing. I used to use Walmarts brand without any problems, but this penzoil thing has got me spooked so we'll see..
 
Back
Top