1989 Evinrude 200vro

[kek4zb]

"Bought a Stratos 289fs about

"Bought a Stratos 289fs about a year ago from a friend of mine, the boat has an Evinrude 200 vro on it. Up until about two weeks ago the motor ran fine. Recently though I had been having trouble starting motor until eventually it wouldn't start at all. I noticed a gas leak coming from a hose connected to the VRO. I am no mech. or good with motors, as many of you are so I had someone come to replace the hose as well as the ignition system. Upon replacing this he [the mechanic] was able to start the motor. However I am still unable to start the engine. Before starting I prime the bulb until "firm" and then turn the ignition while applying the choke at the same time, at times I will apply the throttle in the neutral position, generally at about 50%. The motor will crank but fails to start. I will usually continue to turn the ignition and apply the choke until upset at which point I raise the boat out of the water and go on with something else. What concerns me, besides the fact that the engine fails to start, is that when I raise the boat out of the water, gas/oil leaks out of the prop, what seems like a large amount at that. So my question is, Why wont my motor start, am I just going about starting it wrong, should i apply more/less throttle? Why is there gas/oil leaking out of the prop after failing to start the motor, is there a leak or am I flooding the motor? As stated earlier, I am no mechanic, just a person who loves to fish but cant afford a new boat or motor. Any help is greatly appreciated."

 

[mdellwva]

"sounds like u are flooding it

"sounds like u are flooding it, after a few seconds of cranking, try letting off of choke, keep fast idle on. if no luck try choke off, fast idle off to clear out some fuel, if no luck back to choke on and just a little gas. it just sounds to me like it is flooded ( if u are getting spark)."

 

[joereeves]

"That engine incorporates the

"That engine incorporates the feature "QuickStart" which means that the electronic ignition automatically advances the spark to have the engine run at a fast idle until a proper operating temperature is reached.

This enables you to start the engine at a dead idle, no need to advance the throttle as with the older engines.

Simply push the key in to activate the Fuel Primer Solenoid and turn the key to START to crank the engine over, (look upon this primer as an electric choke, makes it easier to understand).

The fuel primer solenoid RED lever must be in the automatic position as follows.

(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

The engine should be running within six (6) revolutions if all is well.

However, the key words being "If All Is Well" means that all aspects of the engine must be as they should be.

Compression should be approximately 100 psi and even on all cylinders.

Flywheel magnets, if expoxied to the flywheel rather than being incorporated into the flywheel must be approximately 1/4" apart. If any came loose and are touching one another, the flywheel must be either repaired (magnets epoxied) or replaced.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs, gapped at either .040 or .030 (your preference).

Spark, with the spark plugs removed, should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP!

The carburetors must be clean, not fouled in any manner or flooding. If the engine has been sitting for some time (6 months or more usually), the carburetors normally require cleaning.

Check the above and let us know what you find.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"