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1989 Evinrude 140 Dead Stator?

L

loopie111

Member
I have a 25' with twin 1989 140's. Went to start the boat and STBD motor started fine but the port motor sounded for a second like it was going to fine then no spark. Checked for spark and there was none. Hooked up my DV meter to the stator and the out put was only 50volts, also checked the stator OHM's and they were at 22. I checked the STBD motor and everything was fine. I just bought new 2 batteries for the boat and installed them before trying to start the boat, could stronger batteries cause the stator to fail (nothing was shorted or set up differently) or was it coincidence?

What causes a stator to fail?

If I use the old power pack and regulator rectifier would it ruin the new stator?

Should I replace all of the electronics on this motor?

These motors are old and I will be buying new ones soon so I really don't want to put any more $$ into them. Just want to try to finish fishing the summer.
 
CDI replacement units seem to have many varied impedences from stock components but work well with used OEM companion parts. Maybe the batteries had something to do with things leading up to your need to replace them. I'd replace the stator if its outside recommended parameters and just test your trigger and box as specified. Good luck.
 
Before you started down this road, did you rule out the ignition switch, kill switch, and related wiring? If you haven't already done so, I would put everything back together, then disconnect the large red connector under the hood. Carefully jump the starter, and then see if you have spark. If you do, it probably isn't a stator or CDI issue.
 
I have read before that a bad rectifier can wipe out a stator. Since the stator produces A/C, which then goes to the rectifier to make DC, it makes sense that a shorter rectifier could wipe out at least the charge windings of a stator. As for the powerpack, that doesn't make as much sense to me as if it were shorted, the engine wouldn't run to ruin the stator. Does your engine have a separate regulator and rectifier, or are they all in one? If they are separate, it is fairly easy to test the rectifier and see if it is shorted. The first clue is frequently that the wires going to it look burned and overheated. To me, the beauty of having twins is that you can swap parts back and forth for diagnostic purposes. Of course, if you have my luck, you might then end up with two dead engines!
 
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